AaronSweat

Hello All,
Just getting done replacing all the boots on my axles. Next weekend I'm gonna try to get the axles back in. Does anyone know the torque specs? I've got the manuals on microfilm, but finding specs is kinda hard.

Landseer

Check out post # 9 in this link, where Dwayne says he's torqued them to 60 ft lbs....

https://rennlist.com/forums/928/3986...-the-pics.html

blown 87

That is a nasty job, and it takes forever to get the old grease out.

dr bob

Aaron--

We torque these with long extensions from the wheelwell area. I'll also share that we used my little Makita cordless electric impact to drive them initially, with a long impact hex driver I found at Harbor Freight. The extended driver reaches around the boot nicely, and the electric impact made short work of getting everything snugged up without having to climb out, release the parking brake, rotate the hub, crawl back underneath.... You get the idea. With everything snugged and just needing to be torqued, sitting in the wheelwell means a much shorter trip to the parking brake lever. You can get to at least two and usually three of the bolts at a time from the wheelwell, using that extended driver to reach past the boots.

I'm getting too old and cranky to be crawling up and down under the car all the time. Even young Dr. Rob E. mentioned that he was feeling the subtle effects of the dancing a day later, doing it the lazy man's way.

AaronSweat

Hey Guys,
I had read on Nichols site 60lbs as well. I got some advice last year on a couple methods of torquing the bolts. Yeah, the job has been pretty messy so far. I bought some used axles on the bay for cheap. The good was that 3 of the 4 boots looked new/great. The bad was that the 4th boot was pretty dried out and upon taking one of the axles out someone dropped the end in the dirt. I cleaned out all the bearings and repacked them. Once I get the new boot on I will have 2 rebuilt axles for under $100 and my old ones will be spares.

Rob Edwards

Here's the approach for torquing these easily:

1. Stick Dr. Bob under the car to guide the 8mm socket into place

2. Use a 20" and a 12" 1/2" extension to torque, kneeling comfortably beside the car. Didn't even get my hands dirty.....

robot808

I'm about to do this job. Can you get a Dr. Bob from the Big 3? Do you have the part #?

dr bob

There's a long part number, and it has commas instead of decimals separating the groups. Make the checks out to mrs dr bob.

Seriously, you can usually get the driver engaged in the bolts pretty easily without someone underneath. I will caution you that you need to engage the driver completely in the bolt head before you start twisting on it hard.


On those boots-- If you have them out on the floor and you already have a mess to deal with, REPLACE ALL THE BOOTS NOW. They never fail at a convenient time, always get dirt in them since you don't notice them right away, and are always the same amount of fun to remove, clean and repack. Boots are cheap compared with the value of the 'fun'!

My too sense...

blazing928

Bloody tight!
I did mine up at what I felt was really tight and the LH side came off about 500km later! oops!
Back to the garage where my mechanic, Don Roe, got another 1/4 turn on what I thought was tight.
I stood on the brake pedal. You can also put a screw driver in the disc, but the brake pedal is the best.
I used new 12.7 unbraco [sp?] allen bolts cheap at only AUD$2 ea.
As he said 'it's why we did pre delivery and another service at 1000kms ' [ he was the old Porsche centre , "Hamiltons Melbourne" service manager for years.

dr bob

There are more than a few recorded incidents where undertightened bolts there at the drive flanges have come loose. Many had been serviced by 'reputable' places where they should know better.

Using the torque wrench from the wheelwell area means that there is no interference or funny angles or fudge factor adjustments during the tightening process. Trying to get them from underneath the car can be a chore becuase the torque wrench head often tries to displace the rubber boot, and you end up pulling on the wrench without supporting the driver end well enough, and pull the driver part way out of the bolt.

Remember also that the bolts are securing the shaped end of the CV joint into the mating shape on the drive flange. Even though the WSM doesn't make mention, the proper sequence for tightening these bolts is similar to the way you tighten lug bolts on the wheel, and it should be done in a couple steps to mahe sure that the CV housing is squared up and fits corectly in the drive flange before final torque is applied. Like lug nuts, you'll want to take a final 'confirmation' pass through all the bolts again to make sure they are all still tight. This is basic mechanic stuff that the WSM assumes you already know.

DR

Porsche tool #928-DB01

I am pretty sure I saw him on sale recently on Mark's website for $5, best bargin on the market. :-)

DR

Yep, and call me chicken, but whenever I use a long extension on a torque wrench like that I always add at least 5% or so to the torque value. In my head I know there is some flex involved in the long extensions. I have no evidence that it is needed, but it makes me feel better.

jthwan22

How about get Mrs Dr. Bob to step on the brake pedal, tight bolt, off brake, turn wheel, tight bolt etc...

robot808

Oh, so Dr. Bob is a tool?
(All references to Dr. Bob in this post are for humorous purposes only. The writer does not endorse RL on RL crime or drama).

dr bob

Differences between lore and truth... I'm sure MK will find a reason to jump in here too. The torque applied to one end of the extension is the same as what is at the other end, --once you use up the wind-up--. A straight extension is fine, and the more rigid it is the better your feel will be. But in reality, once you are sneaking up on the value you've dialed in to the wrench and movement is extremely small, it's just a metter of feel at that point.

Notice in Rob's picture that we are using 1/2" drive extensions, for this reason. It's not that the torque would be wrong using 3/8" drive parts, it's just that it's tougher to get the feel for the breakaway on the cams in the wrench when there is such a large windup. It's just easier on your hands and arms when it clicks.