heinrich

Hi, I was wondering if you wizzkids could assist .. Allan perhaps?

A friend's car has the blue brights indicator permanently lit slightly. His stereo cuts out apparently not getting enough current at high volume, and his volt meter reads very low ... at cruise 11, and at idle 10.

New battery and alternator

Alan

I think there are probably several issues here.
First off test the real voltage at the jump post with a DMM what is it with the car off (should be approx 12.6v) and what is it with the car running (should be approx 13.8v). With the headlights on what voltage do you get idling - after warming up?)

If these look OK - I suspect the grounds for the pod are the issue. If these have issues they need to be fixed first... battery or alternator (even new may have issues - but if these issue predated them - maybe not).

It could also be a ground somewhere else so this would be a good time to clean them all and all the connections at the jump post also.

Alan

syoo8

Hi Alan,

I am Scott, Heinrich's friend. Thank you so much for your help.

I have an analog multimeter so I had to "best guess" but here are my results:

Car off
Voltage at jump post around 12.5 volts
Voltage on cockpit gauge around 10.5 volts

Car running, headlamps off
Voltage at jump post around 13.5 volts
Voltage on cockpit gauge a little under 12 volts

Car running, headlamps on
Voltage at jump post around 13 volts
Voltage on cockpit gauge around 11.5 volts

Is this a ground point issue at this point?

All my best,

Scott

syoo8

I should add that these issues have been present for the life of the car, which over the last year has included two new batteries and one new alternator.

I also get a drop when I use the interior fan:

Car running, headlamps off, interior fan running at full blast
Voltage at jump post 12.5 volts
Voltage on cockpit gauge around 11.5 volts

Alan

Yes I's say based on the symptoms you should verify the grounds - possibly all but I'd start with the pod. Also the pod connectors should all be cleaned.

Due to the radio issue I'd also clean the jump post terminals and see if that helps - you could also monitor the voltage on the top (red wires) on the CE panel to see if they are ~ same as jump post - they should be very close to your above numbers...

Alan

User 4221

This sounds like a ground issue. The voltage meter in the pod and blue light share a ground. The stereo may be achieving its ground through the blue light. I've seen this on exterior illumination lights.

When playing stereo at high volume, the *ground* may not be sufficient to support the current requirement of the stereo.

Also with a floating ground reference, your in-dash VM will read erratically.

Finally, you can adjust the volt-meter via a small potentiometer in the pod to match actual system voltage. This should be done after you sort out the blue-light issue.

HTH,
Scott

heinrich

Scott, Alan, thank you guys ... this is a reasonably simple issue but having experienced minds to bounce things off, really helps a lot.

All the best,
Heinrich

syoo8

Hi all,

I've cleaned up most of the ground points. (I could not clean a couple because I could not get under the car-- I am at a friend's house.) The wingnut battery ground strap was very dirty which, when cleaned, helped matters some. However, I still get the blue light.

Have I isolated the problem to dirty pod connectors at this point? Or possibly is something broken in the pod that would lead to a floating ground?

heinrich

Scott did you get at that point under the pod? I suspect the work on your clock and stereo may be the issue ...

Alan

Well could certainly be the pod connectors - it does seem to be ground related (almost all interactions between otherwise unrelated circuits are) but the connectors can be in those circuits too. Did you get to the ground point up behind the pod - not easy with the pod in... this is the most suspect.

Do test the top of the CE panel and compare to the jump post - you have a voltage drop somewhere to the voltmeter in the pod - process of elimination here...

Alan

User 4221

I've seen the connector to the flex circuit get really nasty and create weird "illumination" problems as well. If you are going into the pod, then clean all the connections really well.

syoo8

Heinrich, I did get to the point under the pod, but if there is another ground point behind the pod, no I did not get to that one.

Mrmerlin

if your removing the pod disconnect the battery first.
Also consider cleaning the hot post and 14 pin connector, use a pink eraser on the pod and post connections.
The pod switches are easy to remove pull the heads off then there are 2 prongs on each switch gently pry on each and the switch pulls out. dont forget the intensive washer and the wiper speed switches along the bottom of the pod

syoo8

Mrmerlin,

A couple of newbie questions:

1) How does one clean the rheostat?
2) Should I clean the pod switches as well? How does one do that? (My guess is to spray electrical contact cleaner, although I read somewhere (I think) that the contacts are self-cleaning.

Mrmerlin

you might be able to take the rheostats apart otherwise its probably better to replace them.
You cant really take the pod switches apart, if they dont work buy a used one.
I am only talking about removing the switches from the pod.

Pay attention to any of your switches that dont light up they have small bulbs under them ( the heads)that can be replaced , you will see these when you remove the heads of the pod switches