Hondabond 4 /oil pan gasket
#1
Burning Brakes
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Hondabond 4 /oil pan gasket
Well I decided to replace the oil pan gasket since I have the engine on a stand and I am replacing the head gaskets. The oil pan gasket comes W/ the engine gasket set and I thought why not? I had replaced the gasket 3 years ago when I did the steering rack,motor mounts, rod bearings and it was still dry but you know Murphys law. So I remove the pan bolts and atempt to remove the pan and it wont budge. I get on the ground on my back and push W/ my legs and no way it's moving. It aint coming off! I dont want to pry it off and do any damage to the block/pan so I use a knife and attempt to cut down the side of the gasket. This works somewhat on the sides but no access @ the front and back. I use a flat metal putty knife and tap it at a angle and then work it around and then hammer it through the gasket enough to clear the pan edge. Even after doing this 1/2 way around it still wont come off. Finaly get 3/4 punched out and it comes free. Spent 2 hrs scraping gasket/ Hondabond from pan/engine block. I had used a light coat of Hondabond on both surfaces of the gasket and a little on the bolts, It did not leak but the pay off is not worth it. I went back to using Permatex Ultra blue as before and will see how well this works. I know a lot of people are happy W/ the rubber gasket but I am on that slipery slope of WYAT and the gasket was included.
#2
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Hondabond SHOULD be soluble in brake cleaner for cleanup after breaking the seal with very little scraping needed. All the other similar products (Yamabond, Threebond) are. The stock gasket was assembled dry at the factory, as was the water pump gasket, if easy removal is a future goal. My original gasket went at 100K miles. At that time I replaced it with OE cork and used a thin coating of Threebond. Seems fine after another 88K miles.
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Bill, good point on the brake cleaner. I did try to soak the gasket W/ mineral spirits prior to splitting it in half,also tried brake cleaner and mineral spirits once the pan was off, but there was alot of the gasket on both the pan and engine block and it did not seem to help. Also took my time cleaning the block as I did not want to get any debris in the engine. I was told at the Honda dealership that Hondabond and Yamabond is made by the same company. I was happy W/ how it kept the pan leak free, just not happy W/ getting it off.
#4
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I have never used sealant on any gasket of a 928...and never had any leaks. I always wonder where the myth of the need for sealant on any 928 engine gasket came to be. A precision machined component only needs a gasket. Some don't even need that! Sealant is for rough/marred surfaces where it is necessary...you should never have any surface like that on a 928 engine unless a PO or mechanic got in there and goofed it up . BTW, I have done 3 pan gaskets with cork and never had any leak....5 years now.
#5
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Didn't use a gasket on either wp or tb tensioner on both GT and SE at the last TB change used some Orange stuff I frget which make - no leaks so far.
#6
928 Engine Re-Re-Rebuild Specialist
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I remember what it was like trying to pull off my gasket w/ Yamabond with the engine out of the car...it was NOT easy. I had to shove a knife through the gasket and slice the pan free, being careful not to scrape the metal.
I can't imagine the increased difficulty of doing this with the engine it the car.
Hopefully you can use the brake cleaner solvent to loosen the stuff up. It works well, but damn it's hard to remove.
I can't imagine the increased difficulty of doing this with the engine it the car.
Hopefully you can use the brake cleaner solvent to loosen the stuff up. It works well, but damn it's hard to remove.
#7
Race Car
I ruined a set of intakes that I used Yamabond on, never again! I could not get it off and decided to use a wire brush and proceeded to un-level the intake tubes causing a seal leak.
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#8
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I use Threebond 1104 (recently replaced with 1194) on the WP gaskets and found no problem getting them off and cleaned up with brake cleaner. It's a semi-drying synthetic rubber. The equivalent is Yamabond 4. If you are using Yamabond 5 or some other number, it may be a hard drying type. I've also used Hylomar univeral blue on occasion, which is a similar non-hardening sealant. Acetone or brake cleaner (which contains acetone) seem to clean up all of them.
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Dave:
It may be that over a BIG surface area, like the pan gasket, this stuff is a pain to remove. The acetone won't help break the seal. I haven't yet removed a pan installed with this stuff; just a WP, and that was not a problem. I may wish I hadn't put the Threebond on my pan gasket when I get around to it next time.
It may be that over a BIG surface area, like the pan gasket, this stuff is a pain to remove. The acetone won't help break the seal. I haven't yet removed a pan installed with this stuff; just a WP, and that was not a problem. I may wish I hadn't put the Threebond on my pan gasket when I get around to it next time.
#11
Drifting
Any idea what was used on George's 8/6 cylinder? The oil pan was cracked from the engine destroying itself but I probably would have broken the oil pan getting it off anyway...
The same thing with the Texas stroker...a wedge in each corner and it finally split the gasket in half. Nothing came off the aluminum surface of the pan or the cradle. I would almost swear that it was a grey epoxy.
The same thing with the Texas stroker...a wedge in each corner and it finally split the gasket in half. Nothing came off the aluminum surface of the pan or the cradle. I would almost swear that it was a grey epoxy.
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I think George's was done at DEVEK and they routinely applied Yamabond (I assume 4) to pan and WP gaskets. I did mine with Threebond 1104 88K miles ago. It still looks fresh, so I'm not sure when if ever I will get to find out how it behaves. If I had it to do over again, I probably would go dry, like the factory, despite the advice I received at the time to apply Yamabond.
#13
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I have never used sealant on any gasket of a 928...and never had any leaks. I always wonder where the myth of the need for sealant on any 928 engine gasket came to be. A precision machined component only needs a gasket. Some don't even need that! Sealant is for rough/marred surfaces where it is necessary...you should never have any surface like that on a 928 engine unless a PO or mechanic got in there and goofed it up . BTW, I have done 3 pan gaskets with cork and never had any leak....5 years now.
+1 Have always followed this approach - no leakers over many years.
Having seen superiour results at a local speed/trans shop using a high tack, non-drying adhesive, I am prompted to start using this HIGH TACK SPRAY-A-GASKET Sealant by PERMATEX 80065. It is an aersol that nicely holds gaskets in place for assembly - but gaskets appear to easily separate in one piece even after years of service.
Anyone here using this product??
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Actually, I do have a can of that Permatex High Tack. I've tried to use it to hold in-place the cam cover gasket on a 928 but it didn't have enough tack to do the job well. The gasket still fell out of the groove during installation. It probably would be effective with more surface area, as with a pan or WP gasket.
#15
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Save yourself a lot of time and trouble. For $38 bucks from 928gt.com buy the silicone gasket. Goes on clean and will not rot and is reusable.