deliriousga

I can't remember how I did this last time so I need some help. I am putting a new clutch in (a 2+ aftermarket clutch plate and pressure plate).

I don't have a press and I am trying to get the release bearing in far enough to make a big enough gap to pop the snap ring in. I can get it pretty close with the two C-clamps I have, but it's not enough. Is there a nice trick I'm missing here?

TIA!

Lizard928

put the TOB on the floor, PP face up and then stand on the face.

Have had to do this to install one on a 931 PP, which is exactly the same design.

deliriousga

Thanks for the help. I just got it on and we're truckin' along.

Rob Edwards

For the mentally challenged of us:

I have the old PP/release bearing/relase arm assembly in front of me and I want to assemble the new assembly with all new parts. I still have the L-shaped shims in the old PP, and I can move the release bearing around a little, but cannot A) remove the old release arm, and B) can't even think of getting at the big C-clip. It's freaking buried in there, barely visible.

Now, this doesn't matter, 'cause I don't HAVE to disassemble the old setup. Can someone tell me:

1) Obviously I need to shim the new PP before trying to install the new relase bearing.....
2) Do I need to insert the release bearing through the new release arm BEFORE laying it on the floor and stomping the PP into place?
3) Once the PP fingers are in the channel in the release bearing, do I need to keep weight on the PP in order to get the C-clip in?

Here's a diagram from a 1994 TSB on assembly of the relase bearing, so at least I ought to have the shims and washers in the right place.....



4) Should I just suck it up and take this all to a shop and let them assemble? Sorry for the dumb questions, there are a million posts on this, many with pics, but I can't grok the order of operations here.

Rob Edwards

Nevermind, got it. Pics forthcoming.....

Rob Edwards

So here’s my release bearing/PP assembly pics for posterity, I know this is trivial for most but it was intimidating for me (until I actually tried it, it’s a piece of cake. Duh.)

So- first one must shim the PP in order to release some of the pressure on the clutch fingers:



Compressed, ready to accept a shim:



PP shims, made from aluminum L-channel:



And here are the parts that come with the release bearing, numbered in order that they're assembled:




Start the sandwich by putting the release arm engine side up across a 2x4. Then center the release bearing, and add the shim and the toothed spring washer, concave side up. They sit on a shoulder on the release bearing:



Then put the pressure plate over the release bearing, and then the big thick washer, beveled surface up. The c-clip is going here:



At this point, you will find that pushing down with both hands on the PP assembly will flex the fingers, exposing the groove in the release bearing where the C-clip sits. This requires about 40-50 lbs of force. So the trick is to put the whole thing on the ground, kneel on the PP so that the fingers flex, then just maneuver the C-clip into place with your free hand. This does NOT require snapring pliers! I just started the mid portion of the C-clip into the groove, then pressed it in along one side, then used a small screwdriver as a pusher stick to seat in the other half around and into the groove on the relase bearing :



Once in place, remove your knee from the assembly and the c-clip is almost drawn into place:


The assembly’s ready to go back in the car. Now I just need kids to go to sleep so that can happen!

dr bob

It's January, and Rob is working on the car in shorts. Thick NY blood transplanted to paradise, right?

I'm pretty sure that c-clip will work OK installed upside-down like that.

Rob Edwards

Upside down? it's circular in cross section. Or are you just throwing an additional 'leftover' piston circlip into my pile of hardware? (please....)

AO

That's almost as good as telling new turbo twist owners that they have two of them on backwards. riot*

LT Texan

Great info Rob. Are you using a special tool to get the c clip off?

Rob Edwards

Dan-

Dr. Bob knows how to pull my chain. I'm gunning for the Rennlist prize of the guy that did the most invasive work on his car with the least amount of skill/knowledge, so I (for a few long seconds) fell for his C-clip comment. Or maybe just the Rennlist gullible prize....

Nope, nothing special- I used a small regular blade screwdriver. With the PP shimmed and the weight of my bare naked knee on the PP, you'll find the release bearing can be moved side to side within the PP 'fingers'. This allows you to move the big beveled washer around laterally enough that you ought to be able to get a small screwdriver blade into the gap of the C-clip, and pry one end out of the channel. With this setup, the C-clip is actually kind of loose in there at this point.

Yell if this description doesn't make sense-

Mike Simard

What a great writeup!

Bob, you're assuming he's wearing shorts, we really don't know. Since this one's going into the archives, might me a good idea to put some pants on and retake that picture.

Mike Frye

That's just efficient working right there, I HATE to get my favorite jeans all greasy if I'm going out...


Great write-up and pics. I'm also running for the "greatest disparity between the level of work done and amount of knowledge/experience I actually have to do it" award also, although I'm glad I'm not alone .

marton

But it is OK to have greasy legs?

Nice pictures; I mean of the release bearings, not the knees.


Marton

LT Texan

Rob,

Thanks again. I re-read in the text where you wrote that you do not need snap ring pliers. Thanks for taking a little time and pointing it out again to me.

I have my greasy jeans too. They go in the wash with other greasy stuff and lots of detergent. No side effects.....yet.

"When the kids go to bed." Well I look positively lazy compared to you. After a day wrenching, I only have enough energy to "pop a top" on the couch.