Another way to save time on the clutch Hydraulics
10-18-2012, 08:19 AM
#19
Rennlist Member
(wow, exceptional write-ups above from all you guys 
)
Donald, at times what has helped me on top starter bolt ---
Cut a short straight piece off of an old 8mm allen wrench using an abrasive wheel.
Use 8 mm gearwrench to turn it.
A bit of sticky windshield seal ribbon can help situate the hex piece in the wrench.
)Donald, at times what has helped me on top starter bolt ---
Cut a short straight piece off of an old 8mm allen wrench using an abrasive wheel.
Use 8 mm gearwrench to turn it.
A bit of sticky windshield seal ribbon can help situate the hex piece in the wrench.
10-18-2012, 11:17 AM
#21
Team Owner
Thread Starter
when you use the cut off piece of the 8mm allen,
I suggest to use a box end wrench to break the bolt loose first,
then use the gear wrench ,
this so you dont damage the ratchet in the wrench,
leave the lower bolt in position till the top is removed
I suggest to use a box end wrench to break the bolt loose first,
then use the gear wrench ,
this so you dont damage the ratchet in the wrench,
leave the lower bolt in position till the top is removed
10-18-2012, 11:28 AM
#22
Rennlist Member
WOW!! Did anyone notice Dave made a post? (Sharkskin).(and on an old thread resurrection no less)..have not seen any from him since I have been on.....He is like my hero (Ok, one of many here)..lol...I found his pages before I bought my 78, and his write ups brought me here!!!
10-19-2012, 08:49 AM
#24
Three Wheelin'
Assuming that the fluid in the brake system operates at a higher pressure, can't we therefore use a modified flexible line instead of the rigid piece that causes all the grief? Just asking?
10-19-2012, 06:46 PM
#26
Nordschleife Master
10-19-2012, 09:04 PM
#27
Airtek, i agree, Sharkskin is the man, we traded emails awhile back, i am awaiting my master/slave/blue hose/PKlutch impatiently for my 78 Euro, so i can get a few more rides before the white crap falls up here.
Slave came right out, but i haven't yet started the dreaded master cyl removal. Although it does seem easier on our old bags than the new ones.. Anyone try actually removing the fender for access to the master cylinder?? seems crazy but i was looking at that last night.
Slave came right out, but i haven't yet started the dreaded master cyl removal. Although it does seem easier on our old bags than the new ones.. Anyone try actually removing the fender for access to the master cylinder?? seems crazy but i was looking at that last night.
10-19-2012, 10:22 PM
#28
Team Owner
Thread Starter
removing the fender will not give you any access to the MC its behind the inner fender well .
NOTE some have taken a hole saw and cut out a window in the fender well ,
to get to the front of the MC
NOTE you may have to loosen the booster to remove the MC,
If you ordered all the parts,
then you can assemble the whole assembly and bleed it prior to installing it,
its wise to replace the flex line if its original, as well as the blue hose
NOTE it is wise to remove the old piston from the MC and compare it to the new piston in the new MC
as the MFG somehow made the new MC parts to have less stroke thus the clutch wont release fully,
the culprit is the longer piston in the new MC if the you do swap the pistons over use the old spring as well it is shorter and shouldn't go into coil bind if you use the new spring then cut off 2 coils
NOTE some have taken a hole saw and cut out a window in the fender well ,
to get to the front of the MC
NOTE you may have to loosen the booster to remove the MC,
If you ordered all the parts,
then you can assemble the whole assembly and bleed it prior to installing it,
its wise to replace the flex line if its original, as well as the blue hose
NOTE it is wise to remove the old piston from the MC and compare it to the new piston in the new MC
as the MFG somehow made the new MC parts to have less stroke thus the clutch wont release fully,
the culprit is the longer piston in the new MC if the you do swap the pistons over use the old spring as well it is shorter and shouldn't go into coil bind if you use the new spring then cut off 2 coils
10-19-2012, 11:04 PM
#29
Thanks again Stan, i have seen the "window" method, just hate to do that to the car. i did actually grab a flex hose too. All parts coming from Roger hopefully Monday/Tuesday, then i'll dive in.
10-25-2012, 10:51 PM
#30
Dave is my hero with his awesome write-ups on the OB's but i guess anyone here can answer this dumb, but necessary question on my newly received master/slave/flex hose, blue line. Do the fittings on the hard lines, etc need any kind of sealant/teflon tape, or do you just crank them in? i'm dreaming of starting this over the weekend.
The other question, i was thinking of once this all together and installed, of trying to fill the system from the slave bleeder using a boat style lower unit hand pump. this way it fills from the bottom, and pushes the fluid and air up through the reservoir. This make sense, or am i missing something??
The other question, i was thinking of once this all together and installed, of trying to fill the system from the slave bleeder using a boat style lower unit hand pump. this way it fills from the bottom, and pushes the fluid and air up through the reservoir. This make sense, or am i missing something??