How To: Claying & Polishing Paint with Pics!
12-28-2006, 09:24 PM
#1
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
How To: Claying & Polishing Paint with Pics!
After years of borrowing friends Random Orbital and Rotaries I finally received one for Christmas this year! 
Since I'm not nearly as mechanically inclined as many of you I thought I could post a how to on polishing a 928 so I could contribute to this excellent forum.
Below is a step by step for anyone who is interested in duplicating. (Long Post so get your drink of choice)
1. Begin with a proper washing of the car. Any good car wash soap combined with a lambs wool or Microfiber wash mitt is a good way to wash. Make sure you thoroughly clean behind the wheel wells, rocker panels and the lower portion of the rear bumper. Start at the top of the car and work your way down and focus on a panel at a time. Dry thoroughly to prevent water spotting. Our sharks are prone to holding water in the seams of the tail-light and hatch, if you have compressed air blow these areas out.
2. After the car is washed and dried I would suggest claying the paint. Clay is designed for surfaces that are not oxidized or severely damaged. There are many good brands out there including Mothers, Meguiars (newer clays) and Griots. I used Griots clay in combination with their RO Clay Holder. Proper claying requires a good lubricant. You can use any quick detailer or a small amount of car wash soap in water as a lubricant. If you use car wash soap you may need to wash the car again after claying is completed to remove any excess soap. By hand you work a panel at a time and basically move the clay across the surface of the paint in various directions until the paint is perfectly smooth. If using car wash soap rinse the surface after claying, if using a quick detailer use a Microfiber to dry the surface. You can test the surface using a thin zip lock bag by place your hand inside the bag and running it across the surface of the paint. If it feels rough you have more work to do. In this case I had a RO clay holder (See Pic). The clay is placed inside of the foam holder and it stays in place as you move the pad across the surface. Again work one panel at a time and wipe the surface after completing the panel. If you use car wash soap just a quick rinse will do. Since the shark has such a big hood I divided it into four sections so the lubricant didn't dry before I had a chance to clay it. As with washing start at the top and work your way down. Fold the clay over regularly to keep the impurities and dirt away from your paint.
Some clays will leave a residue on the surface and require a second wash, the Griots clay I used didn't need this so I was lucky enough to have a surface ready for polishing immediately after claying. Step 1 is done and your paint should feel silky smooth.
2. Before beginning any major polishing project it is important to tape off all the trim. I used ¾” and 1.5” Blue Painters tape for masking trim. It’s adhesive isn’t strong enough to remove paint but it provides enough strength so it doesn’t peel off during polishing. It’s important to remember that majority of adhesives contain some form of solvent to stay sticky, you want to avoid keeping these tapes on rubber, vinyl or plastics for too long as they will damage the surface. (Ask me how I know) I also tape off any door gaps which I can’t readily access with a Microfiber. Below are some pics after I have completely taped off the trim and gaps which I can’t easily clean.
3. Now you’re ready to polish. Since I only have a Random orbital these instructions will be geared towards it. I used a Random Orbital set at it’s highest speed with a Griots orange polishing pad. Note that every type of polishing pad serves a purpose and not all are designed for polishing. Some are also more forgiving than others so choose wisely. I’m familiar with Meguiars and Griots pads and both companies describe how each pad should be used and with which type of product. If you follow their suggestions you should be fine. There are many other great brands out their so definitely look around. My polish of choice was Meguiars Dual Action Cleaner Polish which has medium polishing capabilities and is easy to work with. It is also probably one of the more aggressive polishes which works with an RO. I typically start by applying the product directly on to the polishing pad (See Pic) and then dabbing it on the panel I’m going to work on. This is to prevent spatter. Place the RO on the surface of the paint and then turn it on, again this is to prevent spatter. Move slowly over the paints surface applying medium pressure (Foam should compress about 30 - 40%). Keep moving over the entire panel horizontally and vertically until the polish is nearly gone and only a very light haze remains. This insures that the polish has broken down completely and it also makes removal significantly easier. Turn the RO off and keep it applied to the paint until it has come to a complete stop. After completing the panel use a clean Microfiber and remove the remainder of the haze left behind. On larger panels like the 928’s hood split it up into four parts. Keep in mind that not all polishes work in the same manner and some may require different pressures and application time. After completing all the panels remove the blue tape to allow removal of any polish residue trapped on the edge of the tape before it hardens. You’re now done with polishing!
4. After machine polishing I like to follow up with a hand polish. This helps remove any minor haze left behind by the foam pad and adds some oils which helps hide some of the deeper scratches. I chose S100 Shine Enhancing Paint Cleanser because it’s easy to apply, truly does enhance the gloss (IMHO) and has the ability to hide finer scratches. Any good foam or Microfiber applicator will work perfectly for applying a hand polish and a good Microfiber can remove it. Follow instructions and use it sparingly, more doesnt' mean better.
5. Follow up with your favorite Carnauba or Synthetic wax. I chose S100 Carnauba for it’s ease of application and deep appearance.
After completing the entire process I would say that I have removed about 75% of the scratches and nearly all of the swirls in my paint. I can still see very few cobwebs and deep scratches which will hopefully disappear the next time I do this.
Apologies for mispellings and if I missed a step here and there, had to squeeze this in with family time.
There are a few after shots at the end
Since I'm not nearly as mechanically inclined as many of you I thought I could post a how to on polishing a 928 so I could contribute to this excellent forum.
Below is a step by step for anyone who is interested in duplicating. (Long Post so get your drink of choice)
1. Begin with a proper washing of the car. Any good car wash soap combined with a lambs wool or Microfiber wash mitt is a good way to wash. Make sure you thoroughly clean behind the wheel wells, rocker panels and the lower portion of the rear bumper. Start at the top of the car and work your way down and focus on a panel at a time. Dry thoroughly to prevent water spotting. Our sharks are prone to holding water in the seams of the tail-light and hatch, if you have compressed air blow these areas out.
2. After the car is washed and dried I would suggest claying the paint. Clay is designed for surfaces that are not oxidized or severely damaged. There are many good brands out there including Mothers, Meguiars (newer clays) and Griots. I used Griots clay in combination with their RO Clay Holder. Proper claying requires a good lubricant. You can use any quick detailer or a small amount of car wash soap in water as a lubricant. If you use car wash soap you may need to wash the car again after claying is completed to remove any excess soap. By hand you work a panel at a time and basically move the clay across the surface of the paint in various directions until the paint is perfectly smooth. If using car wash soap rinse the surface after claying, if using a quick detailer use a Microfiber to dry the surface. You can test the surface using a thin zip lock bag by place your hand inside the bag and running it across the surface of the paint. If it feels rough you have more work to do. In this case I had a RO clay holder (See Pic). The clay is placed inside of the foam holder and it stays in place as you move the pad across the surface. Again work one panel at a time and wipe the surface after completing the panel. If you use car wash soap just a quick rinse will do. Since the shark has such a big hood I divided it into four sections so the lubricant didn't dry before I had a chance to clay it. As with washing start at the top and work your way down. Fold the clay over regularly to keep the impurities and dirt away from your paint.
Some clays will leave a residue on the surface and require a second wash, the Griots clay I used didn't need this so I was lucky enough to have a surface ready for polishing immediately after claying. Step 1 is done and your paint should feel silky smooth.
2. Before beginning any major polishing project it is important to tape off all the trim. I used ¾” and 1.5” Blue Painters tape for masking trim. It’s adhesive isn’t strong enough to remove paint but it provides enough strength so it doesn’t peel off during polishing. It’s important to remember that majority of adhesives contain some form of solvent to stay sticky, you want to avoid keeping these tapes on rubber, vinyl or plastics for too long as they will damage the surface. (Ask me how I know) I also tape off any door gaps which I can’t readily access with a Microfiber. Below are some pics after I have completely taped off the trim and gaps which I can’t easily clean.
3. Now you’re ready to polish. Since I only have a Random orbital these instructions will be geared towards it. I used a Random Orbital set at it’s highest speed with a Griots orange polishing pad. Note that every type of polishing pad serves a purpose and not all are designed for polishing. Some are also more forgiving than others so choose wisely. I’m familiar with Meguiars and Griots pads and both companies describe how each pad should be used and with which type of product. If you follow their suggestions you should be fine. There are many other great brands out their so definitely look around. My polish of choice was Meguiars Dual Action Cleaner Polish which has medium polishing capabilities and is easy to work with. It is also probably one of the more aggressive polishes which works with an RO. I typically start by applying the product directly on to the polishing pad (See Pic) and then dabbing it on the panel I’m going to work on. This is to prevent spatter. Place the RO on the surface of the paint and then turn it on, again this is to prevent spatter. Move slowly over the paints surface applying medium pressure (Foam should compress about 30 - 40%). Keep moving over the entire panel horizontally and vertically until the polish is nearly gone and only a very light haze remains. This insures that the polish has broken down completely and it also makes removal significantly easier. Turn the RO off and keep it applied to the paint until it has come to a complete stop. After completing the panel use a clean Microfiber and remove the remainder of the haze left behind. On larger panels like the 928’s hood split it up into four parts. Keep in mind that not all polishes work in the same manner and some may require different pressures and application time. After completing all the panels remove the blue tape to allow removal of any polish residue trapped on the edge of the tape before it hardens. You’re now done with polishing!
4. After machine polishing I like to follow up with a hand polish. This helps remove any minor haze left behind by the foam pad and adds some oils which helps hide some of the deeper scratches. I chose S100 Shine Enhancing Paint Cleanser because it’s easy to apply, truly does enhance the gloss (IMHO) and has the ability to hide finer scratches. Any good foam or Microfiber applicator will work perfectly for applying a hand polish and a good Microfiber can remove it. Follow instructions and use it sparingly, more doesnt' mean better.
5. Follow up with your favorite Carnauba or Synthetic wax. I chose S100 Carnauba for it’s ease of application and deep appearance.
After completing the entire process I would say that I have removed about 75% of the scratches and nearly all of the swirls in my paint. I can still see very few cobwebs and deep scratches which will hopefully disappear the next time I do this.
Apologies for mispellings and if I missed a step here and there, had to squeeze this in with family time.
There are a few after shots at the end
12-29-2006, 01:09 AM
#5
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Ahh Greg, I know you'll follow in my footsteps! I'm just waiting for you to show up at the next concours with your GTS fully prepped for show.
RDS I should mention these pics were taken in VA, we are currently visiting my family and my car is graciously being stored here for this winter. Although MA is also a beautiful state and I hope to capture a few shots next fall when they harvest the cranberries.
A couple more resized shots
RDS I should mention these pics were taken in VA, we are currently visiting my family and my car is graciously being stored here for this winter. Although MA is also a beautiful state and I hope to capture a few shots next fall when they harvest the cranberries.
A couple more resized shots
12-29-2006, 01:55 AM
#6
Nordschleife Master
I have to strongly disagree with your suggestion to use the Random orbital on its highest speed. It should be set to around 20% speed. They have 1-6 typically and should be set around 2, NOT 6. Too fast and you will burn right through paint quite quickly, especially on the edges of panels where the paint is thinnest.
Also it should be noted to not apply any additional pressure to the polisher, use only the weight of the polisher. You can use some pressure when you are hand polishing but not with the electric polishers. Remember these things were designed as a sander first, polisher second, thus the potential to run them at much higher RPM's.
Also it should be noted to not apply any additional pressure to the polisher, use only the weight of the polisher. You can use some pressure when you are hand polishing but not with the electric polishers. Remember these things were designed as a sander first, polisher second, thus the potential to run them at much higher RPM's.
Trending Topics
12-29-2006, 11:19 AM
#8
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by RyanPerrella
I have to strongly disagree with your suggestion to use the Random orbital on its highest speed. It should be set to around 20% speed. They have 1-6 typically and should be set around 2, NOT 6. Too fast and you will burn right through paint quite quickly, especially on the edges of panels where the paint is thinnest.
Also it should be noted to not apply any additional pressure to the polisher, use only the weight of the polisher. You can use some pressure when you are hand polishing but not with the electric polishers. Remember these things were designed as a sander first, polisher second, thus the potential to run them at much higher RPM's.
Also it should be noted to not apply any additional pressure to the polisher, use only the weight of the polisher. You can use some pressure when you are hand polishing but not with the electric polishers. Remember these things were designed as a sander first, polisher second, thus the potential to run them at much higher RPM's.
I think you might be confusing a Random Orbital with a High Speed Rotary. Everything you've described definitely applies to a high speed rotary and more. Rotaries are capable of generating a significant amount of heat in a very short period of time. I've seen the results of an inexperienced operator using a rotary, anything from burned through paint to melted trim. Rotaries require significantly more care during use and anyone considering using them should really attend a class or practice an old hood.
RO's can still cause damage if you're wreckless but because they're not really spinning and are moving in random motion they don't generate heat. Hope that makes sense.
12-29-2006, 01:28 PM
#10
Nordschleife Master
i know what your talking about, you can always take off paint. Who told you to put the RO on its highest speed? Again these things were designed as sanders, regardless of what Griots garage will tell you. If Griots tells you to run it on max speed then go for it. I dont suggest it though. 928 single stage paints arent very thick, you MUST BE VERY CAREFUL!
So for all those reading this take this for what its worth, weigh it with the original reccomendation and use what works best for you. There is no real science to this stuff, once you spend an hour doing it you get your own technique. Again though, I would strongly suggest AGAINST the hughest speed. It should run around 2000 rpm
So for all those reading this take this for what its worth, weigh it with the original reccomendation and use what works best for you. There is no real science to this stuff, once you spend an hour doing it you get your own technique. Again though, I would strongly suggest AGAINST the hughest speed. It should run around 2000 rpm
12-29-2006, 08:25 PM
#11
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Joe '87 S4
Nice writeup. How did you get the wing to stay up?
Ryan,
Have you had a bad experience with an RO? I've been using both RO's and High Speed Rotaries for 15 years and have never damaged my paint. I did damage trim with a rotary the first time I used it and learned quickly what not to do. I've also taken 4 classes on RO's and Rotaries held by Meguiars and the overall consensus is that RO's are benign unless you're careless. I will add however that if using a very abrasive compound you can most definitely wear through paint very quickly, even by hand. Using proper products are critical to achieving good results. I wish I was in the TX area so we can compare notes and I can get a better perspective of where your coming from.
12-30-2006, 12:23 PM
#12
Race Director
Originally Posted by RyanPerrella
i know what your talking about, you can always take off paint. Who told you to put the RO on its highest speed? Again these things were designed as sanders, regardless of what Griots garage will tell you. If Griots tells you to run it on max speed then go for it. I dont suggest it though. 928 single stage paints arent very thick, you MUST BE VERY CAREFUL!
So for all those reading this take this for what its worth, weigh it with the original reccomendation and use what works best for you. There is no real science to this stuff, once you spend an hour doing it you get your own technique. Again though, I would strongly suggest AGAINST the hughest speed. It should run around 2000 rpm
So for all those reading this take this for what its worth, weigh it with the original reccomendation and use what works best for you. There is no real science to this stuff, once you spend an hour doing it you get your own technique. Again though, I would strongly suggest AGAINST the hughest speed. It should run around 2000 rpm
I think you are a bit confused......Random Orbits (RO) don't measure in RPM....then measure in OPM (orbits per minute).....yes 2000rpm is way too fast for a rotary polisher-buffer, it would melt paint super quick.....typically 1,000rpm is plenty for a rotary buffer...BUT Afshin is using a RO...so even on speed 6 it will be difficult to ruin paint...sure it can be done...but you would really have to be a ham fisted fool to do it!
Afshin
Looking good!! Really sharp...man it must have taken a while to mask all of that!
12-30-2006, 01:13 PM
#13
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
How do I maker my RO work w/Griot pads
Question: I just got $200 worth of polishes, sealers, pads, etc from Griot's. On the polishing pads, there is a velcro backing....but these do not fit my non-Griot Random Orbital or HS polisher since they don't have the other part of the velcro on them. Since I already own two ROs and a HS sander that has a low speed (for polishing my glass I'm thinking) I don't want to buy the Griot hardware just to make their stuff work. Does anyone have ideas for retrofitting my existing RO polisher to work w/the Groit velcro backed pads?
Why did I order this stuff? Because youse guys cars are looking unbelievably good!
Thanks.,
Harvey
Why did I order this stuff? Because youse guys cars are looking unbelievably good!
Thanks.,
Harvey
12-30-2006, 01:31 PM
#14
Nordschleife Master
you need to get a hook and loop backing pad that will "glue" onto the back of your pad. The RO that I have had a completely flat pad, this is used for sanding discs that have an adhesive backing. Abrasives use either hook and loop or more commonly an adhesive backing. Home depot will sell them, you want a hook and loop with an adhesive backing, stick that onto your backing pad and it now becomes a hook and loop pad.
12-30-2006, 01:51 PM
#15
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Harvey good luck with the polishing, Silver is a very forgiving color and a little polishing goes a long ways! By the way I would stick with the RO unless you have experience with the HS Sander on paint.