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Cool, I already have the air filters, so I'm all set (Psst- red is faster). How do I break it to the PRK that I've done and gone and supercharged the stroker?
Tuomo, if there's a way to determine air filter flow volume using a standard flow bench I might be able to convince Greg to let me use his and blow air through one of these filters. But you already have the uberfilter setup on your '87. Are you just interested for posterity?
I have a case of those red filters if you need any more....
The base on the new filter allows me to change the outlet size, making it a bit more future-proof for other applications. I am going to include a Hitachi MAF bung my filter exit part so I can eliminate the factory MAF.
Jeff, why pull the engine for the wiring refresh? (other than "that's what real men do" reason ....)
Why not. I pulled it 4-5 years ago and I want to replace the leaking gasket at the back of the engine and it's easy to work on when on a stand. Then I can stand in the engine bay and not have to bend over all the time to route the wiring.
More room too so it's easier. I have an overhead crane and a 4 post lift. should be much easier than before with jackstands and an engine hoist.
I think they are just using internal rule of thumb given the amount of media. I am not going to pay to have a full bench test run on the filter.
Originally Posted by Rob Edwards
How do I break it to the PRK that I've done and gone and supercharged the stroker?
Tuomo, if there's a way to determine air filter flow volume using a standard flow bench I might be able to convince Greg to let me use his and blow air through one of these filters. But you already have the uberfilter setup on your '87. Are you just interested for posterity?
I'm just curious. There's no practical need. I'm curious because I've had hard time finding the test specifications for various filters and their quoted CFM numbers.
I think K&N tests at 1.5" h2o pressure drop and quotes those numbers, but I'm not 100% sure. If I understand their test procedure correctly (a big if) I think they measure the static pressure, not the total pressure, inside the filter element. "It is important to note that the static pressure is measured through the holes in the tube that are around the circumference about an inch from the tip and the static pressure tap from the SF1020 is connected to the static pressure tap on the side of the Pitot tube." I'd rather see the total pressure drop, because I think that's less impacted by things like the outlet diameter etc.
Well, we have found ourselves a new fun design challenge.
I originally designed the newer billet supercharger inlet to be easy to machine and accept what I thought would be easy to source Mustang bolt pattern throttle bodies. Functionally, the design would work great... but I cant find any decent Mustang throttles at a decent price. Everything else on the kit is billet, so I cant go and put cast throttles on there. The best one I can find, they guy just cant get around to building a batch, and if he could, they would be $175/each and the kit requires two. The second choice is almost $200/each.... and that is starting to get silly. Having a $400 line item in the build for throttles that will require an additional custom linkage and cam is ridiculous.
So..... we are just going to build our own throttles into the billet inlet housing. It will be a single piece with two counter-rotating opposing blades that tip in at the bottom towards the center-line for increased air flow directionalality to the superchargers rotors. Both blades will be actuated by custom arms, linkage, and a centralized cable-actuated bellcrank behind the inlet plenum. This will allow me to swap out a single cam to get different throttle input curves so I can tune the low-speed driveability.
I have already sourced the INA bearings, and found a 14deg throttle blade I can order off-the-shelf. All I need to machine is the shafts. I was already going to have the linkage machined, and the housing just increases in blank and material removal time... so the finished result will be a made-to-purpose inlet/throttle using the best bearings and optimized actuation system.... and it should be cheaper too.
Just goes to show that the corner sometimes is the best place to refine a concept.
I should have the basic model done by the end of the week. The tough part was finding the bearings with complementing install specs. The bearing bores and install tools have very demanding specs. The install tool even has to have an undercut for proper seating. We have that squared away now, as well as the the throttle resting angle, so the rest of the design is a simple modification of the existing plenum design.
While all the shiny stuff is nice...
Why not just buy a ****load of junkyard Ford TB (65 or 70mm fitment on 4.6/5.4 engines) and blast/polish them?
They are $35 or so all day at the pick and pull.
I could probably send you 50 in a day's work.
Here is the first working revision of the inlet plenum with throttles. Most of the hard work is done. I just need to add the spring retainers and bearing bore for the bellcrank and TPS on the back. Should be ready to go out for quote on Monday.
Just outstanding work all the way around Hans! I'm not a big fan of how my inlet is setup on my GT. Would this inlet plenum work on the Eaton MP112 and allow me to reconfigure a few things?
Just outstanding work all the way around Hans! I'm not a big fan of how my inlet is setup on my GT. Would this inlet plenum work on the Eaton MP112 and allow me to reconfigure a few things?
This design would only work on the 2.1-2.8L HPS/Kenne Bell Superchargers.
If you are looking for alternative inlets for the Eaton based superchargers, you may want to look through the Magnuson or Harrop catalogs.
12-22-2016, 05:35 PM
