The Twin Screw Thread
#2641
Rennlist Member
Andrew Olson had a leak on his heat exchanger but his is the later Dave Roberts/928SP version.
I did a pressure test on mine in the kitchen sink with 5 psi (IIRC) and it looked ok, but I just don't trust that because I couldn't fit it all the way in at once. I really would like to have a shop do a good test to ease my mind.
Are you having issues that leads you to believe yours is leaking?
#2642
Rennlist Member
It is a know mode of failure for these intercoolers to spring leaks over time, and also depending on the revision, at the hose connection inside. This is one reason I designed the new fittings for my kits, and went with a rigid billet end-tank.
You can pressure test the core without pulling the manifold. Depending on the leak, you can cause damage to the engine, so if you are still running the original core, you may want to include testing the core for leakdown in your winter maintenance.
Replacing the core is not fun, they are really stuck in there with a ton of sealant, but you should be able to get a replacement unit fabricated fairly inexpensively. I believe the core used is about $250.
You can pressure test the core without pulling the manifold. Depending on the leak, you can cause damage to the engine, so if you are still running the original core, you may want to include testing the core for leakdown in your winter maintenance.
Replacing the core is not fun, they are really stuck in there with a ton of sealant, but you should be able to get a replacement unit fabricated fairly inexpensively. I believe the core used is about $250.
Last edited by hans14914; 10-31-2016 at 02:06 PM.
#2643
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
It is a know mode of failure for these intercoolers to spring leaks over time, and also depending on the revision, at the hose connection inside. This is one reason I designed the new fittings for my kits, and went with a rigid billet end-tank.
You can pressure test the core without pulling the manifold. Depending on the leak, you can cause damage to the engine, so if you are still running the original core, you may want to include testing the core for leakdown in your winter maintenance.
Replacing the core is not fun, they are really suck in there with a ton of sealant, but you should be able to get a replacement unit fabricated fairly inexpensively. I believe the core used is about $250.
You can pressure test the core without pulling the manifold. Depending on the leak, you can cause damage to the engine, so if you are still running the original core, you may want to include testing the core for leakdown in your winter maintenance.
Replacing the core is not fun, they are really suck in there with a ton of sealant, but you should be able to get a replacement unit fabricated fairly inexpensively. I believe the core used is about $250.
#2644
Rennlist Member
Never say never.... It looks like an S3 derivative of the kit may be coming in the future. The attached picture shows the first test template for an S3 lower doubling as the bending test jig for the S4 lower plenum. This part is made from a single sheet of laser cut aluminum and bent to create the finished shape.
The machined lower plates are all done at the machine shop, and when the test plenums come in next week, will get welded into an assembly for finished testing. The first upper is supposed to be off the mill today. If I get a chance, I will run down there and take some pictures this afternoon.
So, in summary, S4 manifolds will be done by the end of next week. I only cut a batch of 5, so if you have any interest in a twinscrew kit for your 87+, now is the time to get in touch to reserve a spot. I currently have two spaces left for those who want in on the first batch.
The machined lower plates are all done at the machine shop, and when the test plenums come in next week, will get welded into an assembly for finished testing. The first upper is supposed to be off the mill today. If I get a chance, I will run down there and take some pictures this afternoon.
So, in summary, S4 manifolds will be done by the end of next week. I only cut a batch of 5, so if you have any interest in a twinscrew kit for your 87+, now is the time to get in touch to reserve a spot. I currently have two spaces left for those who want in on the first batch.
#2647
Rennlist Member
Hans would I be able to put my Andy Keel Auto Rotor 2.0 on this manifold and use all of your upgraded parts?
I'm in the process of stripping the stock intake down now, found the chain Tensioner pads needed replacement, I did the T belt/WP last year.
Thanks and that manifold looks great!
Dave
I'm in the process of stripping the stock intake down now, found the chain Tensioner pads needed replacement, I did the T belt/WP last year.
Thanks and that manifold looks great!
Dave
#2648
Rennlist Member
Dave,
The bolt pattern and supercharger discharge from the old Autorotors are different than the current HPS blowers. If you wanted to use your Autorotor, I would have to custom machine a one-off upper. Its not impossible, but you would be eating the toolpath and setup for a single unit, so would assume it would come with a significant premium in the machining. Also, my inlet wouldn't fit, so you would still have to run the old Keel inlet parts.
Better off just selling the kit as-is and going with the bigger 2.4L HPS based system currently being planned for the S3, or just do the necessary maintenance and upgrades to your current kit. That one was one of the cleaner Keel installs, so I would be tempted to just leave it as is than try and modify it significantly.
The bolt pattern and supercharger discharge from the old Autorotors are different than the current HPS blowers. If you wanted to use your Autorotor, I would have to custom machine a one-off upper. Its not impossible, but you would be eating the toolpath and setup for a single unit, so would assume it would come with a significant premium in the machining. Also, my inlet wouldn't fit, so you would still have to run the old Keel inlet parts.
Better off just selling the kit as-is and going with the bigger 2.4L HPS based system currently being planned for the S3, or just do the necessary maintenance and upgrades to your current kit. That one was one of the cleaner Keel installs, so I would be tempted to just leave it as is than try and modify it significantly.
#2649
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Hans would I be able to put my Andy Keel Auto Rotor 2.0 on this manifold and use all of your upgraded parts?
I'm in the process of stripping the stock intake down now, found the chain Tensioner pads needed replacement, I did the T belt/WP last year.
Thanks and that manifold looks great!
Dave
I'm in the process of stripping the stock intake down now, found the chain Tensioner pads needed replacement, I did the T belt/WP last year.
Thanks and that manifold looks great!
Dave
the positioning determines where the belt runs. you may have to change the snout length?..or adjust/change your pulley/tenstioners set up. Thats my guess. Then you have to have the room at the back for your old intake set up. A simple as it may sound, i think you would have a few variables to tackle. Hans will obviously have the best answer.
perhaps you can get a blank upper and have your own holes put in?
Im half thinking of pulling the trigger on it but its hard to justify when my old set up is still working fine....but Han's work quality is
edit..he beat me to it.
#2650
Rennlist Member
Dave if you decide to upgrade to Hans' kit, I'd be interested in your old kit.
I can't justify the $1000.00+ cost of a full rebuild/repair etc... on the Jag/Eaton unit, when I can double it (+ some) and get a brand new Whipple 140AX (or even a 175AX or 200AX!) The 200AX is a 3.3 liter unit and dimensionally looks like it will work, although there will be lots of re-engineering.
For the cost as well as time, I'd love to find a used Autorotor 2.2, but they're just not out there.
I can't justify the $1000.00+ cost of a full rebuild/repair etc... on the Jag/Eaton unit, when I can double it (+ some) and get a brand new Whipple 140AX (or even a 175AX or 200AX!) The 200AX is a 3.3 liter unit and dimensionally looks like it will work, although there will be lots of re-engineering.
For the cost as well as time, I'd love to find a used Autorotor 2.2, but they're just not out there.
#2651
Rennlist Member
Just back from a quick trip to the machine shop.
Its one of those good news, bad news, then good news kind of days.
Good News: The lowers look great, they hold the o-rings perfectly, pictures will follow below.
Bad News: The machinist, who is a really great guy and I really enjoy working with him, was processing the first top part to make sure it was ready to do the full run. He was going the extra mile, and programmed the drill/threadmill operations in a blank area of the manifold to make sure everything looked good and that there were enough turns. As it turns out, he accidentally hit an offset and did all those practice holes in the middle of the part.... so the first upper which I was so excited to go see was scrap, and take two was in the mill when I got there.
Good News from Bad News: Its just unfortunate to scrap a $150 chunk of aluminum with another couple hundred in machining already (before stopping after realizing the error), so we are going to go ahead and finish machine it for use as the welding jig. This is going to be a happy accident so none of the production uppers will have any heat from the welding process.
So, no pictures of uppers today, and its now unlikely I can take a manifold to Third Coast, but its just a day or two delay in a journey that has taken several years to get this far.
I am really looking forward to getting the lower plenum and welding the first assembly.
Its one of those good news, bad news, then good news kind of days.
Good News: The lowers look great, they hold the o-rings perfectly, pictures will follow below.
Bad News: The machinist, who is a really great guy and I really enjoy working with him, was processing the first top part to make sure it was ready to do the full run. He was going the extra mile, and programmed the drill/threadmill operations in a blank area of the manifold to make sure everything looked good and that there were enough turns. As it turns out, he accidentally hit an offset and did all those practice holes in the middle of the part.... so the first upper which I was so excited to go see was scrap, and take two was in the mill when I got there.
Good News from Bad News: Its just unfortunate to scrap a $150 chunk of aluminum with another couple hundred in machining already (before stopping after realizing the error), so we are going to go ahead and finish machine it for use as the welding jig. This is going to be a happy accident so none of the production uppers will have any heat from the welding process.
So, no pictures of uppers today, and its now unlikely I can take a manifold to Third Coast, but its just a day or two delay in a journey that has taken several years to get this far.
I am really looking forward to getting the lower plenum and welding the first assembly.
#2652
Rennlist Member
Thanks Hans for the reply, good to know.
Given the Cost, I'll run w/ what I have and try to do updates from what others have learned over time and proven to work well for Andy's system.
From what I have read the intake sealing can be a bit touchy to get right, and the Oil breather / filler on the one I removed only had a plate w/ an elbow (no baffle) installed, so I'm thinking I need to address that.
Once I clean up the heads and V, I'll start looking at how to address those two things.
Chris I'll keep you in mind if things change, thank you
Dave
Given the Cost, I'll run w/ what I have and try to do updates from what others have learned over time and proven to work well for Andy's system.
From what I have read the intake sealing can be a bit touchy to get right, and the Oil breather / filler on the one I removed only had a plate w/ an elbow (no baffle) installed, so I'm thinking I need to address that.
Once I clean up the heads and V, I'll start looking at how to address those two things.
Chris I'll keep you in mind if things change, thank you
Dave
#2653
Rennlist Member
I should be able to help you with the oil breather plate. I think that should be interchangeable between my design and your Keel kit. I will just go ahead and order a couple spares when I get them machined.