The Twin Screw Thread
#2041
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Hi Dan,
To change he EZK map used you also need to change the connections on the 8 way coding plug as per the WSM diagram.
The intermittant WOT switch is more likely to be the switch itself rather than the cable adjustment, they have a poor reliability record due to fractured solder joints inside. There's a RL thread which I started on that topic.
To change he EZK map used you also need to change the connections on the 8 way coding plug as per the WSM diagram.
The intermittant WOT switch is more likely to be the switch itself rather than the cable adjustment, they have a poor reliability record due to fractured solder joints inside. There's a RL thread which I started on that topic.
#2042
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Change your supercharger oil
I must have 30-35K (eh, maybe 40 - don't know exactly since it has been off a few times) on my trusty Eaton M112. The bearing has a sealed oil supply. The Autorotors many of you have do as well. Until recently I was ignorant of the fact that you need to change this oil periodically, something like every 15-30K miles. See, I'm still ignorant of some of the specifics. Anyway, after poking around the Web a bit, I bought some GM supercharger oil from Summit Racing, two 4 oz. bottles at $8.95 each. You can get it from your local GM dealer, if you still have one. Some rebuilders say to use Mobil 1 or some other synthetic motor oil. But the common stuff is GM or Ford supercharger oil, supposedly identical, with GM being cheaper. There are other alternatives, including kits with syringes for removing and instilling the oil, on eBay too.
Anyway, I didn't take pictures of the process. It was very simple. There is a Allen plug on the face of the SC unit. After that was off I snaked a tube into the opening and down to the bottom. You need a rather small gauge tube, like small vacuum hose, to be able to snake downward. You won't really know when you have reached the bottom. I just kept sucking out oil and repositioning the tube until no more came out. I got about 190ml out, which is a little more than M112's are said to take.
I used my Mitivac and its 4 oz trap cup to do the sucking. Then I just replaced the amount I removed. The old oil came out clear initially but was darker toward the end. Still, it looked remarkably fresh and had no particulates. I didn't have a syringe to instill the new oil. I used the Mitivac's trap cup in reverse, using the Mitivac's other port to pump air into the trap and force the new fluid up the trap hose inside the cup and into the SC until I had put in 190ml.
So, I guess I'm good for another 15-30K miles.
Anyway, I didn't take pictures of the process. It was very simple. There is a Allen plug on the face of the SC unit. After that was off I snaked a tube into the opening and down to the bottom. You need a rather small gauge tube, like small vacuum hose, to be able to snake downward. You won't really know when you have reached the bottom. I just kept sucking out oil and repositioning the tube until no more came out. I got about 190ml out, which is a little more than M112's are said to take.
I used my Mitivac and its 4 oz trap cup to do the sucking. Then I just replaced the amount I removed. The old oil came out clear initially but was darker toward the end. Still, it looked remarkably fresh and had no particulates. I didn't have a syringe to instill the new oil. I used the Mitivac's trap cup in reverse, using the Mitivac's other port to pump air into the trap and force the new fluid up the trap hose inside the cup and into the SC until I had put in 190ml.
So, I guess I'm good for another 15-30K miles.
#2044
Three Wheelin'
Bill, you and I discussed this down at OCIC. I don't remember how much old oil I got out, but that S**T was some of the nastiest smelling stuff ever. Not clear at all, looked more like regular motor oil. I did put the full two 4 oz. bottles in the Eaton M112. I recall reading somewhere that the oil capacity was about 236 ml. It could be me, but the old Eaton sounded better after the oil change.
BTW, do you have a template or drawings of the throttle cable setup on your car? Also, the types of pulleys used?
BTW, do you have a template or drawings of the throttle cable setup on your car? Also, the types of pulleys used?
#2045
Race Car
I must have 30-35K (eh, maybe 40 - don't know exactly since it has been off a few times) on my trusty Eaton M112. The bearing has a sealed oil supply. The Autorotors many of you have do as well. Until recently I was ignorant of the fact that you need to change this oil periodically, something like every 15-30K miles. See, I'm still ignorant of some of the specifics. Anyway, after poking around the Web a bit, I bought some GM supercharger oil from Summit Racing, two 4 oz. bottles at $8.95 each. You can get it from your local GM dealer, if you still have one. Some rebuilders say to use Mobil 1 or some other synthetic motor oil. But the common stuff is GM or Ford supercharger oil, supposedly identical, with GM being cheaper. There are other alternatives, including kits with syringes for removing and instilling the oil, on eBay too.
Anyway, I didn't take picture of the process. It was very simple. There is a Allen plug on the face of the SC unit. After that was off I snaked a tube into the opening and down to the bottom. You need a rather small gauge tube, like small vacuum hose, to be able to snake downward. You won't really know when you have reached the bottom. I just kept sucking out oil and repositioning the tube until no more came out. I got about 190ml out, which is a little more than M112's are said to take.
I used my Mitivac and its 4 oz trap cup to do the sucking. Then I just replaced the amount I removed. The old oil came out clear initially but was darker toward the end. Still, it looked remarkably fresh and had no particulates. I didn't have a syringe to instill the new oil. I used the Mitivac's trap cup in reverse, using the Mitivac's other port to pump air into the trap and force the new fluid up the trap hose inside the cup and into the SC until I had put in 190ml.
So, I guess I'm good for another 15-30K miles.
Anyway, I didn't take picture of the process. It was very simple. There is a Allen plug on the face of the SC unit. After that was off I snaked a tube into the opening and down to the bottom. You need a rather small gauge tube, like small vacuum hose, to be able to snake downward. You won't really know when you have reached the bottom. I just kept sucking out oil and repositioning the tube until no more came out. I got about 190ml out, which is a little more than M112's are said to take.
I used my Mitivac and its 4 oz trap cup to do the sucking. Then I just replaced the amount I removed. The old oil came out clear initially but was darker toward the end. Still, it looked remarkably fresh and had no particulates. I didn't have a syringe to instill the new oil. I used the Mitivac's trap cup in reverse, using the Mitivac's other port to pump air into the trap and force the new fluid up the trap hose inside the cup and into the SC until I had put in 190ml.
So, I guess I'm good for another 15-30K miles.
Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
#2046
Under the Lift
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Bill, you and I discussed this down at OCIC. I don't remember how much old oil I got out, but that S**T was some of the nastiest smelling stuff ever. Not clear at all, looked more like regular motor oil. I did put the full two 4 oz. bottles in the Eaton M112. I recall reading somewhere that the oil capacity was about 236 ml. It could be me, but the old Eaton sounded better after the oil change.
BTW, do you have a template or drawings of the throttle cable setup on your car? Also, the types of pulleys used?
BTW, do you have a template or drawings of the throttle cable setup on your car? Also, the types of pulleys used?
Sorry I haven't had time to make any more brackets. Here is a sheet with schematics showing the assembly, then the two pieces that make it up. Sorry it's not dimenisioned. Simple to do with a hacksaw. The wheels I use are nylon patio door wheels available in the window and door hardware section at OSH (Prime-Line D-1506 1 1/2"). Note when you reposition the MAF and throttle housing so it is level for the throttle bracket to work properly, you will have to add a 90 degrees elbow to the front hose connection for the ISV. I've attached a picture. Hopefully you will get some better hose clamps than pictured, but you get the idea.
#2048
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Heya blown guys...
I have a keel stage 2 kit fitted and have just finished doing my dyno/mappings runs with the ST.
It not making 6 lbs as I thought it would but makes 5 solid with no drop off at all thru RPM.
Dynoed at right on 300 at the R/Wheels...i thought it would produce more than this...
Does this number ring true with what you have experienced.
i am using the 30lb nozzles.
Regs
peter
I have a keel stage 2 kit fitted and have just finished doing my dyno/mappings runs with the ST.
It not making 6 lbs as I thought it would but makes 5 solid with no drop off at all thru RPM.
Dynoed at right on 300 at the R/Wheels...i thought it would produce more than this...
Does this number ring true with what you have experienced.
i am using the 30lb nozzles.
Regs
peter
#2049
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peter:
Yeah, 300 is low for 5 PSI. I had a baseline 262 RWHP and got around 335 with 5PSI. The big change, though, was the low RPM torque!
Yeah, 300 is low for 5 PSI. I had a baseline 262 RWHP and got around 335 with 5PSI. The big change, though, was the low RPM torque!
#2050
Supercharged
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It may not be a finction of the SCer. You need to ensure your Hall sensor and knock snesors are working properly. That can take 50hp off the table easily.
I make 9psi and about 400RWHP. Roughly 15hp per pound of boost.
I make 9psi and about 400RWHP. Roughly 15hp per pound of boost.
#2051
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Some pics i took at SEMA. In many apps out there when the intake is at the front(ie Corvettes..Vipers) they turn the SC around and run a shaft to the back, near the fire wall, to turn it.
This set up is different and seen on the newer mustangs. The snout and the inlet are at the front, side by side. I included a couple of cut out shots so you can see how its all "channeled". Some bad a$$ mustangs and Cameros there, i will say that!
The "Red" engine at the top is a little different than the set up shown in the "cut out" model shown on the stand, but you get the idea. I know Blau is out there designing his own TS set up, perhaps you can use the intercooler shown in the pics below (the red engine). It looks very modular and im sure could be easily adapteed to what you have already designed?
This set up is different and seen on the newer mustangs. The snout and the inlet are at the front, side by side. I included a couple of cut out shots so you can see how its all "channeled". Some bad a$$ mustangs and Cameros there, i will say that!
The "Red" engine at the top is a little different than the set up shown in the "cut out" model shown on the stand, but you get the idea. I know Blau is out there designing his own TS set up, perhaps you can use the intercooler shown in the pics below (the red engine). It looks very modular and im sure could be easily adapteed to what you have already designed?
#2052
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The TECHCO Reverse-Revolution Twin Screw Supercharger™ is TECHCO’s flagship new product, will completely revolutionize supercharger design. "Our Design of the (TECHCO) Twin Screw Supercharger, is not merely further innovation in supercharging, but is truly a revolutionary advancement on Supercharger Design and application. We’ve taken all of our expertise in supercharger design and created a new product that provides superior power and performance on all levels." Says John Spruill, Vice President of Engineering for TECHCO. "We designed innovation into every aspect of the new (TECHCO) Supercharger, from the Patent Pending new A-Frame (Dual) Intercooler configuration with Extruded Aluminum 6061-T6 Housing, to the all new 3.0L Reverse Rotation Screws with 6061-T6 Rotor Housing with fully integrated Bypass System, and Long, High Flow Runners. It’s like nothing else on the market today." Says Billy Tally, Chief Technical Officer for TECHCO.
Nuts and Bolts of The TECHCO Reverse-Revolution Twin Screw Supercharger
What makes the TECHCO Reverse-Revolution Twin Screw Supercharger so revolutionary is the unique design (Patent Pending), which optimizes airflow efficiency throughout. Incoming air is fed into the front of the supercharger, not the back like conventional designs. This ensures that the incoming air has minimal turns, eliminating restrictions, before entering into the supercharger housing. Additionally, without the need for a complex inlet tube, the largest possible orifice size is maintained, maximizing air flow efficiencies. The air then flows into the lobes of the Reverse-Revolution asymmetric multi-lobe compressor screws, where it is compressed, not merely moved, as in other forms of supercharging. The compressed air then flows into the intercooler housing which houses (2) intercoolers mounted in an A-Frame configuration to ensure the airflow is evenly distributed to each runner bank. The Patent Pending Twin Intercooler design results in higher cooling capacity and greater thermal efficiencies as the cooling water only has to pass through the intercoolers once, keeping the charge air cool. A further benefit of the front Inlet Design is the additional package space above the supercharger that is used for long high flow Intake Runners, which increases low end torque.
The resulting design of The TECHCO Reverse-Revolution Twin Screw Supercharger allows air to move through the supercharger quickly and efficiently, without significant heat buildup, and at the highest resulting airflow volume at low boost output. The performance result is maximized horsepower and torque output.
Key Features of The TECHCO Reverse-Revolution Twin Screw Supercharger™:
• Reverse-Revolution Twin Screw Compressor with Asymmetric Multi-Lobe Screws • 3.0L / 180 cu. in. Displacement • Front Induction with Integrated Bypass • 10 Inch Long Intake Runners • Dual Stage Intercooler System with Single-Pass Coolant Flow through the A-Frame (2) Intercoolers, Large Capacity Heat Exchanger, High Volume Intercooler Pump and Recovery Tank • Open Element Cold Air Kit with High-Flow Air Filter, CNC Venturi and High Flow Inlet Tube • Extruded Aluminum Fuel Rails with upgraded fuel injectors where applicable • Separate 8-Rib FEAD (Front End Accessory Drive) with Dampener • Ultra-Light Weight Aluminum Construction • Flash Programmer • Instruction Manual
Applications Dodge/Chrysler: All 5.7L/6.1L Challenger/Charger/Magnum/300C Ford: 4.6L 3V Mustang GM: C5/C6 Corvette
Nuts and Bolts of The TECHCO Reverse-Revolution Twin Screw Supercharger
What makes the TECHCO Reverse-Revolution Twin Screw Supercharger so revolutionary is the unique design (Patent Pending), which optimizes airflow efficiency throughout. Incoming air is fed into the front of the supercharger, not the back like conventional designs. This ensures that the incoming air has minimal turns, eliminating restrictions, before entering into the supercharger housing. Additionally, without the need for a complex inlet tube, the largest possible orifice size is maintained, maximizing air flow efficiencies. The air then flows into the lobes of the Reverse-Revolution asymmetric multi-lobe compressor screws, where it is compressed, not merely moved, as in other forms of supercharging. The compressed air then flows into the intercooler housing which houses (2) intercoolers mounted in an A-Frame configuration to ensure the airflow is evenly distributed to each runner bank. The Patent Pending Twin Intercooler design results in higher cooling capacity and greater thermal efficiencies as the cooling water only has to pass through the intercoolers once, keeping the charge air cool. A further benefit of the front Inlet Design is the additional package space above the supercharger that is used for long high flow Intake Runners, which increases low end torque.
The resulting design of The TECHCO Reverse-Revolution Twin Screw Supercharger allows air to move through the supercharger quickly and efficiently, without significant heat buildup, and at the highest resulting airflow volume at low boost output. The performance result is maximized horsepower and torque output.
Key Features of The TECHCO Reverse-Revolution Twin Screw Supercharger™:
• Reverse-Revolution Twin Screw Compressor with Asymmetric Multi-Lobe Screws • 3.0L / 180 cu. in. Displacement • Front Induction with Integrated Bypass • 10 Inch Long Intake Runners • Dual Stage Intercooler System with Single-Pass Coolant Flow through the A-Frame (2) Intercoolers, Large Capacity Heat Exchanger, High Volume Intercooler Pump and Recovery Tank • Open Element Cold Air Kit with High-Flow Air Filter, CNC Venturi and High Flow Inlet Tube • Extruded Aluminum Fuel Rails with upgraded fuel injectors where applicable • Separate 8-Rib FEAD (Front End Accessory Drive) with Dampener • Ultra-Light Weight Aluminum Construction • Flash Programmer • Instruction Manual
Applications Dodge/Chrysler: All 5.7L/6.1L Challenger/Charger/Magnum/300C Ford: 4.6L 3V Mustang GM: C5/C6 Corvette
#2053
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Tony,
The Techco Reverse Rotation Twin Screw is VERY COOL!! I have been keeping an eye on their stuff since they started. If I recall correctly these were some of the guys that designed the later Saleen systems and they went out on their own and started Techco.
VERY HIGH on my list if I ever change Twin Screw SC suppliers.
There was a lot of rumors lately that they were out of business, i am pleased to see that they are representing at SEMA which should kill all those rumors.
The Techco Reverse Rotation Twin Screw is VERY COOL!! I have been keeping an eye on their stuff since they started. If I recall correctly these were some of the guys that designed the later Saleen systems and they went out on their own and started Techco.
VERY HIGH on my list if I ever change Twin Screw SC suppliers.
There was a lot of rumors lately that they were out of business, i am pleased to see that they are representing at SEMA which should kill all those rumors.
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David Roberts
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#2055
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BTW, here is a cool video showing bench testing on the Techco..be sure to turn up the volume!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kKfXomWHcOY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kKfXomWHcOY