gretzky99

thanks , fixed

Mongo

I think thats the right hose. I have to do the same thing to mine after i get it running again sunday.

Garth S

Yes - I posted (Tonys pic of the area) in this note today https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...31#post2345331

perrys4

I did this to my car and it ran like crap for a while. Had me pretty nervous. Didnt help either.

the flyin' scotsman

Wayne............yes, thats the correct hose.

When I did mine I sprayed in WD40 engine off and cold.........waited for 5 mins, started the engine with the hoses still unattached, plugged the vacuum end and sprayed more lube. Results were not instant but my low idle issue is no longer an issue............I also dumped the air pump and associated plumbing..........cats are next when the X Over Exhaust System arrives

the flyin' scotsman

[QUOTE=gretzky99]ok to start up the engine with the hose off??

Yes, I didn't do it for long; perhaps 3 mins.


I won't have a WD40 sprinkler will I No!

& do I have to repeat this later?

Depends on the results. If the ISV is only aprtially stuck the lube may free it. If its fully stuck it'll mean surgery to remove the intake manifold and then there's tons of 'while your at it projects'

m21sniper

This is a pretty common problem on most US cars too. They call the same gizmo an IACV(Idle Air Control Valve).

I normally use carb cleaner on them, but i reckon WD-40 would work too.

deliriousga

Man, I love Rennlist!!! I had the fluctuating idle and stalling until it hit running temp so I searched and got this thread. Did the WD40 IACV fix and she's all better now.

Thanks!!!

Imo000

Anyone tried this on the '85-'86 32V engines? I have a slow recovering idle air stabilizer. I know where the stabilizer is but can locate the hose ends to spay the cleaner into it.

Gregg K

Hey, this seems to have solved my low idle problem. Thanks for posting this!
My '89 GT used to stall at stop signs when I came up to let the clutch out.

We'll see if it stays fixed.

jeff jackson

IMO...on an 86...spray the stuff into the rear (firewall side) hose from the passenger side valve cover...this hose leads right to the idle air control valve, and the WD-40 seems to give spontaneous cure to the "low idle" issue. HOWEVER...it doesn't last very long, and you will find its more trouble than its worth as far as a "cure" is concerned. I found the answer to this problem, through Jim Bailey at 928 Intl. who told me the correct idle setting procedure for my 86.5...You must jumper the 3 wire connector at the front strut bar(it runs laterally from the driver inner fenderwell to the passenger inner fenderwell.) The connector to jumper is just to the passenger side of the engine centerline when viewed from the front of the car, and just BELOW the strut bar...Flip down the cover, to reveal the 3 vacant female terminals inside...the terminals, if aligned, where the 2 closest to each other were at 11 o'clock, and 2 o'clock position,would place the other terminal at the 6 o'clock position. ( I say it that way, because on my car, the alignment was off kilter, but if the two closest together were in the correct position, 11 and 2 oclock would be their location.) Place a jumper wire from the 2 o'clock terminal, and the 6'oclock terminal. This disable the computers idle control circuit, and allows the adjustment of the curb idle speed. Again, just to the passenger side of the engine centerline, (when viewed from the front of the car)...look down throught the intake manifold runners at the front of the throttle body, and you will see a hexaganol screw...(7mm is the size)...with the ECM idle control disabled...and the engine fully warmed with all accessory drives off... adjust this screw till 680 rpm on the tach is the curb idle. Shut down the motor, remove the jumper, and close the connector cover...You have set your idle correctly...NOW...see if the idle air control vale responds in a predictable, and satisfactory mode. Good Luck. This solved my "Low Idle speed" issue. I hope you obtain similar results.

Andre The Giant

It seems to be like my problem but not exactly. When I start my'85 cold or not it starts fine the idle goes to about 1200 rpm then sometimes drops very close to 0 comes back up then down until a few times and it adjusts itself to be quite stable. Sometimes it will even stall since it drops way too much. But the car starts up fine right after.

Also I'm not sure if this is related or not but when the car idles in gear or not you will sometimes feel something that feels like an air bubble would go through the exhaust, I'm sure it's not that But that is how I can describe it. It probably is a misfire, but not sure. This happens even after the car is in proper working temperature zone.

Andre

Mrmerlin

FWIW the idle stabilizerthats being described works very differently on the 85/86 engines VS the 87 and newer
The 85 86 ISV is a wear item and spraying WD40 into it isnt going to fix a sticking issue.

NOTE the armature will wear down and the brushes will grind into it thus grabbing the armature and causing it stick.

The 87 and later can usually be freed up if its a corrosion issue.

85/86 ISV failure cause thread,
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...?highlight=ISV


87 ISV failure with pictures. start at post 35

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...?highlight=ISV

Andre The Giant

Thank you MrMerlin. You don't have nay pics as how to get to the ISV to check ? I don't even know what it looks like. I will do some more research to see what the part looks like so I can find it. I am still a newbie when it comes to the 928, this is my first summer driving one. I got initiated to the 928 with a TB/WP and tensioner job without being mechanically inclined, I have surprised myself.

Andre The Giant

Is this what it looks like ? If so where am I to look for the wear you talk about ?