jerybak

I am planning on installing two 10" CV shallow mount amplified subs on the seat backs of the rear seats. I want to hear from anyone that has done some work in this area, just wondering what the seat backs are made of, and the best way to go about fastening up to them.

They feel pretty solid like 1/2" hardwood or something.

jerybak

Here they are just set in place.

Randy V

A much better solution than installing a bazooka sub.

The Forgotten On

Seat backs are 1/2 inch (somewhere around there in metric) Plywood and are pretty sturdy. Just make sure your screws aren't too long or else your passengers may get a poke in the shoulder

jerybak

This new audio modifications I just installed are surprisingly strong, not stupid base, but very strong lows, and the entire system sounds clean, clear & loud as hell.

System
Kenwood KDC-MP345U Head Unit (purchased a eXcelon KDC-X998 but may go back)
Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 Amp(fits in same spot as OEM amp, passenger side cover)
Cerwin Vega VPAS10 Powered Active Slim 10" Sub x2
Rockford Fosgate RFK10I 10 AWG Amp Power Kit x2
Rockford Fosgate Signal Patch Cables x2
Patch Cable Y Splitter x2

I purchased the KDC-X998CD head unit to install but have not just yet, mostly because I am blown away with how the system sounds now, additionally I found that the PO used solder, heat shrink, and clean wire runs/ tie up on the aftermarket head unit install he had done, I was kinda impressed. I have no clue what speakers are in the car @ the OEM locations, they look stock but I am not sure, they sound superb now that each speaker is staying in their respective strength range.

I installed the RF Amp in the OEM amp location, fits perfect, this amp is a 4 channel 4ohm stable amp so it runs all (8) of the factory speakers with no issues as each run (front left, front right, rear right, rear left) is a 4 ohm load. I ran a patch cable into the RF Amp from the head unit, it pushes out 4 channels from a single patch cable. This worked perfect for me (just no front/rear fade) as my front pre amp out is pushing signal to the RF Amp for the (8) factory speakers, and the rear pre amp out is set to Subwoofer and is sending signal to the pair of CW active 10" subs. I just simply used (2) Y splitters from the pre amp out rear to feed both active subs a left & right signal. I am still tuning but currently I have one of the subs catching everything from 150hrz & below, and the other is only getting 80hrz and lower.

I may not mount the subs to the seat backs, after some test fitting tonight I noticed the CV sub enclosure fit so snuggly into the space that I may just leave them so as not to be drilling holes in the seat backs. I took the car out for some spirited runs to see if I could break them loose from their test fit position, after some time with no luck I figured perhaps just leave them as a PRESS FIT!!! lol.

Plan for tomorrow is to get the wires cleaned up and professional. I have some Techflex loom and will see how best i can clean it up. Another pleasant surprise is how well the cargo cover rests on the top edge of the subwoofer enclosure just behind the seat back thus maintaining a level of security from prying eyes.

I am still shocked at the output this system is generating, the stock systems in my QX80 & Denali fall miserably short of this upgrade for the Shark. With head lights, and driving lights on and car idling with audio volume @ 30 out of 35, when the subs hit the volt meters drops below 12 volts, turn the high beams on and HVAC blower @ 2, and now its way below 12volts constantly. Trying to determine if a high output alternator is the way to go or should I try a 1 farad capacitor first...thoughts?

The Forgotten On

I would try a capacitor first, but it will only stabilize the voltage the amp sees when there is a large pull on the charging system

such as when the subs activate at a bass tone. It will need to build that charge up again...

Otherwise I would look into a low rpm high output alt that excites at ~600 rpm.

This will be difficult and expensive as most alts excite at ~1000 rpm that most cars idle at, so the low rpm alts need finer windings which drive up the cost.

I think Gregg Brown was working on one at some point but don't know what became of the thread on it.

I do feel your pain though as I have an a/d/s PH15.2 6 channel amp that can pull over 60 amps powering the components along with a JBL 4020 that powers the bass tube I have.

So I can have over 70 amps of current being drawn when this thing is cranked.

I have lived with this by keeping the volume at a comfortable level and not a cranked level to keep draw down and turn the blower down when I hit stop and go traffic.

As long as you can keep the gauge above twelve you should be fine. Plus they are inaccurate anyway I would hook up a new gauge to the battery to get the true charge system voltage.

medipedicman

Very clean. Love the design

pinballplanet

I have the mono version of that Fosgate amp powering my Bose (Acura) spare tire sub. Great little amp!

jerybak

Yea my first requirements was fitting in the OEM amp location, can't believe the power this thing pushes, and I was worried about heat under the cover but I have had zero heat issues. As you can see with high beams, driving, front & rear fans running and the volume at 30 of 35 it pulling the volts down.

MainePorsche

That is quite a bit.

LT Texan

You need a higher output alternator.

MainePorsche

Another thing to do along the lines of energy conservation are LED's to whatever (as much as you can) is illuminated when you turn the headlight switch on.

jerybak

You think alternator straight away or should i try a capasitor? Generally not sitting around with all that equipment on & audio pushed....

LT Texan

A cap will certainly help smooth a peak amp draw for a millisecond here or there, but in no way solve your problem of your stereo drawing more amps than your alternator can supply.

There is a Ford Taurus alternator transplant detailed in here somewhere.

Edit. Here it is:

http://https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/737112-better-alternator-option.html

Alan

A capacitor won't help your issue at all, it will help for audible drop-outs of a dynamic nature (distortion essentially), but if you can't recharge it from the alternator then it may not even help for that. It certainly won't raise the voltage you see on the gauge. It may be a good upgrade later but you need more power now unless you are willing to compromise a lot at idle. Get a real DMM on there so you have an accurate reading of how far drooped you are - looks bad - but it may be rather misleading.

I'd be looking for 90 degree RCA plugs and power connectors to tidy up the wiring - that looks a bit messy now, but otherwise they fit well. You could wrap them in acoustic cloth to make them virtually disappear.

Alan