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Lookin' good under there. I haven't had any reason to go see the powder coater lately but that sure makes me want to. I took my fuel lines to a local shop and had a set made up using the original ends, not as pretty as yours but comforting knowing they are there. Don't forget about the short fuel pressure regulator and damper lines, they are the next weakest link. I had those made up too.
Don't forget about the short fuel pressure regulator and damper lines, they are the next weakest link. I had those made up too.
Thanks, jhowell. That's exactly why I decided to post my progress here. I figured that I would get lots of tips and support from the group. I'll add these to the list too.
I ordered two liters of ATE Gold DOT 4 brake fluid yesterday. I'll be bleeding brakes on Saturday after I reinstall the instrument panel. It's supposed to be a beautiful day. Maybe I'll even have time for a little joy ride.
The weather was beautiful this weekend, so I got all the toys out and shook the cobwebs off.
I also put the instrument cluster back in only to find the new LEDs don't light up at all. All the instruments work but no dash lights - bummer. I think I'll go back and just order standard 3W incandescent bulbs.
Today was awesome weather too, but I had a few more projects I wanted to tackle so I spent most of today getting dirty. I emptied and cleaned the brake reservoir and then bled all the brakes. I have a vacuum bleeder so it wasn't a difficult job, but you need to be super careful about not getting brake fluid on any part of your paint job - a lesson I learned the hard way on a very nice pickup I had a long time ago.
While I had the front-end jacked-up, I changed the castor blocks and bolts. The old ones were in surprisingly good condition, but they were the old style with lots of bushing. I upgraded to the 968-style blocks and bolts.
While I had the back-end up in the air I noticed that my trans has strong indication of leaking. The passenger side seems worse than the drivers but it's wet all over.
I'm going to start with getting some engine degreaser and a thorough power wash to see if I can isolate the leak, but I'm worried. I've been reading a rebuild will run $1500-$2k. Any recommendations?
Today was awesome weather too, but I had a few more projects I wanted to tackle so I spent most of today getting dirty. I emptied and cleaned the brake reservoir and then bled all the brakes. I have a vacuum bleeder so it wasn't a difficult job, but you need to be super careful about not getting brake fluid on any part of your paint job - a lesson I learned the hard way on a very nice pickup I had a long time ago.
Don't forget to bleed the clutch as well. Sometimes it's easy, sometimes it's a PITA but it needs to be done when refreshing the brake fluid.
Braymond,] "I haven't found very good info on performing the clutch bleed. I will keep searching."
Bleed as usual, just don't let the master cylinder go down enough to get air in the line There are lots and lots of threads about clutch bleeding problems after master or slave cylinder replacement.
If you dont have a pressure bleeder , You can do the 2 person way , you can fill the brake resivior all the way to the top and open the bleed screw on the slave cylinder and let the fluid start to trickle out then shut , then have some one pump the pedal, instead of pumping with your foot use your hand and guide it slowly down and up but stay with in the range not all the way down , as you start feeling pressure return , wait a few seconds and the hand pump again the hold down but not all the way and then open the bleed screw , repeat. Eventually you'll get a nice firm pedal.
The pressure bleeder is one of the best tools ive purchased, and no yelling at your kid hold it down under $50 dp951 Promotion
+1, get the pressure bleeder. I don't know how many hours I wasted frustrating myself and my wife trying to do a manual bleed of the dang clutch. It's definitely worth the $50-$60 it costs, and it encourages you to keep fresh brake fluid in your system because it makes it so easy to flush the old stuff out by yourself.
+1 for the pressure bleeder. It made bleeding the clutch after changing the master and slave cylinders a breeze.
Chris
Thanks for the recommendations everyone. I will order a pressure bleeder. I've been wantin one for the track bike too. THe vacuum bleeder just doesn't work well for the clutch on the bike either.
SloMo, that's a great looking car in white.
I got the oil changed earlier this week and finally got license plates on Friday - woohoo, I'm legal. I still have to get an inspection, but I think she's ready.
I jacked up the front and back yesterday and degreased several times. I got everything pretty clean too. While I was under there I noticed that the PO had indeed installed upgraded sway bars - front is 25 or 26mm and rear is 18mm. Struts and shocks look stock. The front springs have a white dot which is stock 944S.
I ordered new front and rear sway bars, so it looks like I may be selling at least the front one. I found a brand new OEM 20mm rear sway on eBay. I'll probably wait until Fall to update the suspension. It's handling great right now.
It took the car in for Maryland inspection yesterday. She failed inspection, but good news, it was mostly minor stuff - dash lights inop, right parking brake cable rubbing on rear wheel, and worn steering assembly u-joint.
I stopped at Advanced and purchased the recommended (Clark's Garage article) Sylvania 194 bulbs for the dash. Replacement only took about 30 minutes and it looks good now. I was really hoping the LEDs would work as I thought the whiter light would look better.
I stowed the parking brake cable with three heavy duty zip ties.
Remarkably, I found the steering assembly on Amazon for $125 shipped. It should arrive next week. Hopefully, this is an easy job.
Inspection report also mentioned a few other problems that I had not noticed including a rattling from underneath the car at idle when the clutch pedal is not depressed. A search shows this is common but can be one of several problems - most commonly the torque tube or the clutch throw-out bearing. Bummer.
02-14-2017, 02:11 PM
There are lots and lots of threads about clutch bleeding problems after master or slave cylinder replacement.
