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Weather was really nice last two days. Maybe some saw my post about difficulties reassembling the torsion tube, but got it in. All that snugness is a good thing I keep telling myself. Got the car on the ground for a test height - hooray - right back to where it was when before I took it all apart.
Now, have to jack car back up and hook up e-brake, brakes, shocks, sway, cvs, fuel lines and new filter. Will tackle e-brake as it is what I look forward to the least.
I used marvel on the torque tube aluminum that bolts to trans. It was highly oxidized and it took all the white off. Just marvel and steel wools. Lots of videos. Basically makes it look 5 years old. But if you want new look, need to blast.
I used marvel on the torque tube aluminum that bolts to trans. It was highly oxidized and it took all the white off. Just marvel and steel wools. Lots of videos. Basically makes it look 5 years old. But if you want new look, need to blast.
Figured that's what you did, just checking that you didn't find some other method of working with Miracle Oil. I've used it on both corroded aluminum and chrome where I did not want to remove the part to clean it. It's ok at removing most of the corrosion and getting it looking ok, bead or soda blasting is much better as you've proved.
Also tested the fuel lines and they seemed to not leak.
Then the brakes. Needed to bleed them. Passenger side no problem. Driver side, was frozen. How to remove. Did a little search and found this image at brake bleeder.com No affiliation. I did not use their product, but did use their method of pinning the bleeder. Don't know if I needed to, but took the extra precaution.
It took a wrench with a 12" extension to brake it free. That is a lot of torque for brake bleeder. After that, bleeding went without issue.
02-19-2017, 05:29 PM
