dubdub

Hey guys here is a picture of my 924 sender,





They are labeled W, G, and the one on the top left has no label.

Im instlaling a new aftermarket fuel gauge and it has a line to sender. Which one of these lines from the sender goes to the fuel gauge? And do I have to disconnect the others?

marc abrams

The G terminal. leave the brown ground wire at the top of the picture connected. W is for the low fuel warning light.

Van

Correct - G is for "gauge".

What kind of aftermarket gauge did you get? Unless it's programmable, it's probably not calibrated for the right resistances.

dubdub

Thanks guys.

Van, I picked up a generic Equus from Auto zone its 0-90 ohms, I dont know if its faulty though. Its not reading.

Here is the rating at the sender. 8.24



Here is the reading at the gauge. 8.24



And here's the power at the guage, 12.19



What else should I check?

I'm getting power from where the cigarette lighter was, and I also tried the power from the clock. Both read at 12, but neither seemed to make the gauge work. I thought I read that these cars were 0-90 ohm, if not, what gauge should I go with?

Van

See here: http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/elect-13.htm

Like I said, the generic gauges don't work - it's not calibrated for the right resistances.

marc abrams

Dude, the connections to your voltmeter are in the wrong spots. The black lead goes to the "COM" port, the red lead goes to the "V,ohm,mA" port. The "10ADC" port is only use for the "10A" scale selection.

MistaX

Ditch the Harbor Freight Freebie Edition DVOM, I've thrown away so many I bought a real one to save the headache.

They're unreliable. Incredibly unreliable.

tempest411

I used to see this situation at the auto parts store I work at all the time-back when people actually worked on their cars. It is CRUCIALLY important to make the sender and gauge are compatible. You can't mix and match and expect the gauge to give you a good number, or one at all in some cases. I hope the OP comprehends this. It'd have been better to make sure the components were tested correctly so as to make sure he is replacing the correct item, then obtain a compatible replacement. That being said, I haven't read anything here about the gauge ever going bad. It's usually the sender.

dubdub

Thanks guys I really should get my own multi-meter, the one I am using is the generic one that gets tossed around the house.

What about a 73-10ohm gauge? I couldn't find one that is 73-3ohm .

Van

I recommend this one: https://www.summitracing.com/oh/part...-133/overview/

Or get a used one from one of the parts guys here.