MistaX

I just finished installing the NA-Tune today, and it... doesn't work.

Car starts, idles fine, but as soon as any throttle is applied it sputters, misfires, doesn't rev. Let off and it returns to idling fine.
Coincidentally my wideband stopped working a few days ago, so I'm out a decent diagnostic tool.
Car ran alright with the AFM.


Ideas?

V2Rocket

did you adjust your idle speed/throttle stop/TPS after fitting the MAF?

engine needs less "help" breathing at idle with MAF vs the AFM.

MistaX

Yeah, I adjusted it all the way tight. TPS still clicks properly.

V2Rocket

Double-checked that everything is hooked up and tight? Maybe an air leak post-MAF...those emissions-type hoses next to the throttle body are tricky sometimes (in case you took the J boot off)

Mine and a few other folks' setups have had a "running lean" issue initially which caused weak running. I drove the car 150 miles with very low power but otherwise smooth running...upon installing my WBO2 I found out I'd been cruising/WOT at ~17:1 AFR

I had the DME tuner and just dialed in more gas, don't know how the other folks fixed it, but that worked for me.

MistaX

I didn't pull the J boot since I already had the silicone version, although the MAF did force it back toward the manifold.

Maybe it has a vacuum leak I'm unaware of.


It starts up so fast though, it's really peculiar how well it starts and idles.


Edit: Just cut the O2 wire (I have a new one anyway) and no change.

Van

Double check for vacuum leaks. Then triple check.

StoogeMoe

Are you sure your MAF is MAF'ing? Or the connections are good to it? Sounds like as soon as go off the idle on the TPS it doesn't get the signal to know what fuel mixture to give the engine.

MistaX

Just took the J boot off and smoked all the lines. Not looking that way, unfortunately...

Afraid to put it back together just to have it run like crap now.

Connections are solid.



Could I have damaged the DME soldering the pins and jumper?



Certainly not the best solder job in the world ever. Is the lower, left of where the chip pins are, supposed to be connected to the jumper? Factory had a blob of solder that connected both, I just broke the solder and pushed the pin through it. It is definitely connected/shorted to that jumper.

konakat

Your soldering looks fine, doesn't need to be perfect. Sounds like a massive vacuum leak, or the TPS signal isn't getting to the DME. An easy way to check for vacuum leaks is to drill a hole in the bottom of a soup can for an air fitting, then shove the can in the end of the J-boot and give the intake system 5-10 psi. You'll easily hear or feel if there are leaks.

MistaX

I pulled the J boot off, capped the throttle body with a latex glove, and blew vape smoke in each individual line. Not fun on the AOS line since that just blew oil back in my face.
I swear there's no vacuum leak. The fuel pressure regulator lines provided very little resistance but no visible smoke so I assume that's just an open valve.

Also when I put the J-boot back on the lower hose slipped out and the car wouldn't start at all so with a really massive vacuum leak it just doesn't run.
Why I think it's the DME

V2Rocket

question of the year...

MistaX

Reflowed the solder, it's objectively better in the sense that now I can rev it, but it's still got a misfire. On the right track.

And my door handle linkage broke, as soon as I closed the door after starting the car.

I think I need to sell it now.

Edit: Not even the linkage, the goddamn handle itself. The metal inside the handle that connects to the linkage broke.

dmjames

I had that happen last week... UGH. My condolences!

Squid924

What style handle do you have? Script? Non-Script? Does it have the insert in the outer part of the handle? I may have one I can sell as I upgraded to 968 Handles.

MistaX

It's the one with the insert. Early style.