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One time I put brand new hatch struts on my car and it separated the hatch... and this was just a week after resealing it. So ever since then, I keep the old, worn out struts on my cars, and got used to lifting the hatch up myself. But one of them got so worn out that the hatch would creep back down and hit me in the head, so first I carried a broomstick, then I tried the trick where you slightly bend the struts... neither one was a good solution.
Then I read this tip: https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...l#post13685187
Sachs hatch strut SG214008 from the 1990 Jeep Wrangler 4.2L
I bought a pair and put them on today. I just wanted to share my experience.
The length is exactly the same as the 944 part. Also the ends are a perfect match. So they installed without problems. There is one difference, though: the 944 right strut is different left/right, the right side has that special end that makes/breaks contact for the trunk light and alarm. The Jeep struts are the same left/right as the 944 left one. So you'll lose those two functions.
Straight out of the box, the lifting force is like a fairly worn out 944 strut - it can hold up the hatch, but not raise it. This is perfect to me because I want minimal force on the hatch frame, just enough to keep the damned thing from hitting me in the head. Note that the 944 I put it on still has the rear wiper.
Let's see how long it can last... once it starts to wear out, it'll have trouble holding up the hatch. At $30 for the pair, it was totally worth a try!
I just re-sealed my hatch - I will buy these Wranger ones to replace my almost new OE pair.
I can't believe how strong the OE ones are. Even ignoring delamination concerns, it takes quite a bit of effort to lower the hatch. It also takes two hands to avoid twisting the hatch.
One more thing I just noticed today. The rear defrost now grounds through the little wire which is meant for the trunk light and/or alarm, and this wire is a lighter gauge than the defroster's. So I need to make a new ground cable and find a nice place to ground it.
Here's my attempt to keep the frame from delaminating. I'd hate to have a hatch that doesn't use the gas springs or requires a prop rod. The theory of this approach is that the wire cable carries the load from the gas spring which is trying to push the frame off the glass when it is closed. The cable is anchored next to the hinge and essentially forms a triangle, which is a very rigid structure. Its been 2 years since I resealed the hatch and added the cables. So far, so good!
Cut a 1/2" sch40 pipe 1/4" shorter than the fully extended length of the exposed shaft. Next cut a slot in it lengthwise. Lift up hatch and pop in the "support". Used this technique on an old wore out SUV hatch for a long time in my teens.
Cut a 1/2" sch40 pipe 1/4" shorter than the fully extended length of the exposed shaft. Next cut a slot in it lengthwise. Lift up hatch and pop in the "support". Used this technique on an old wore out SUV hatch for a long time in my teens.
Here's my attempt to keep the frame from delaminating. I'd hate to have a hatch that doesn't use the gas springs or requires a prop rod. The theory of this approach is that the wire cable carries the load from the gas spring which is trying to push the frame off the glass when it is closed. The cable is anchored next to the hinge and essentially forms a triangle, which is a very rigid structure. Its been 2 years since I resealed the hatch and added the cables. So far, so good!
Very nice. I've been fantasizing about doing the very same thing, except with a flat strip. The turnbuckle makes it a lot more practical to set up, though. Does it protrude into the cargo space much?
Originally Posted by porscharu
Cut a 1/2" sch40 pipe 1/4" shorter than the fully extended length of the exposed shaft. Next cut a slot in it lengthwise. Lift up hatch and pop in the "support". Used this technique on an old wore out SUV hatch for a long time in my teens.
That is a good idea. How come I never heard any of these good ideas before??
No, it hardly makes any difference in the cargo space. I should mention that the cable is actually an old electric window cable that has a swaged end. I drilled a small hole thru the window frame next to the hinge. The swaged fitting goes on the outside of the frame.
The cable thing is very interesting. Can you please post more pics? Closeups of each end would be great, and maybe a shot of the top, with the hatch closed?
12-13-2016, 06:42 AM
Weaker hatch struts (to avoid separation)
So ever since then, I keep the old, worn out struts on my cars, and got used to lifting the hatch up myself. But one of them got so worn out that the hatch would creep back down and hit me in the head, so first I carried a broomstick, then I tried the trick where you slightly bend the struts... neither one was a good solution.
