Fog lights and licenceplate lights doesn't work. '90 944S2
09-13-2016, 03:36 PM
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Fog lights and licenceplate lights doesn't work. '90 944S2
OK, so I got an EU inspection coming up and I got a couple electrical issues I need to fix. I have a German-spec car imported to Norway. The car is a 1990 944 S2 coupe. with sunroof and no AC
1.
My licence plate lights wont work. I got no piwer on the wired going to the lights. And I believe my bulbs are fine. What fuse to check? Couldn't find any info on it online. And my fusebox is in German.
2.
Foglights wont work. Here I've done some more testing. Checked the wiring in at the back of the lights, and it seems fine. I also switched places between the two switches without any luck. When trying to find power on the socket for the switch I found that pin #3 had 12 volts. pin #3 on the switch had no continuity with any of the other pins regardless of switch position, so I'm thinking both my switches are bad.
Then I tried to bypass the switch to check and see if the circut was alright. I found some info online that told me to connect #3 to #2, #4 and #6 I should send light to the fogs. And it did, they lit up like they should. But then I was stupid enough to pull my "jumper contraption" out of the switch socket with the power on and heard a pop, like a relay going off or a fuse blowing. Now I have no power in #3 anymore. Fuse #5 didn't blow, but repalced it anyways. Relay G11 was also good, but tried replacing it and the G6 relay and G12 relay. No difference.
I've tried to to pick power directly from the pattery and hook it to the #2, #4 and #6 pin on the switch socket. The G11 relay clocks, but no light. (Bulbs are checked and they work)
All this testing has been done with the light switch in both #1 and #2 position. Ignition off, on and car running. As well as with high beams both on and off. No difference.
ANy idea where to look next?
1.
My licence plate lights wont work. I got no piwer on the wired going to the lights. And I believe my bulbs are fine. What fuse to check? Couldn't find any info on it online. And my fusebox is in German.
2.
Foglights wont work. Here I've done some more testing. Checked the wiring in at the back of the lights, and it seems fine. I also switched places between the two switches without any luck. When trying to find power on the socket for the switch I found that pin #3 had 12 volts. pin #3 on the switch had no continuity with any of the other pins regardless of switch position, so I'm thinking both my switches are bad.
Then I tried to bypass the switch to check and see if the circut was alright. I found some info online that told me to connect #3 to #2, #4 and #6 I should send light to the fogs. And it did, they lit up like they should. But then I was stupid enough to pull my "jumper contraption" out of the switch socket with the power on and heard a pop, like a relay going off or a fuse blowing. Now I have no power in #3 anymore. Fuse #5 didn't blow, but repalced it anyways. Relay G11 was also good, but tried replacing it and the G6 relay and G12 relay. No difference.
I've tried to to pick power directly from the pattery and hook it to the #2, #4 and #6 pin on the switch socket. The G11 relay clocks, but no light. (Bulbs are checked and they work)
All this testing has been done with the light switch in both #1 and #2 position. Ignition off, on and car running. As well as with high beams both on and off. No difference.
ANy idea where to look next?
09-13-2016, 08:32 PM
#2
I'm working from a early car wiring diagram but most hasn't changed to the late cars.
Both the fog light switch and license plate lights get their power from the #58 bus line. The #58 bus line power originates from the headlight switch terminal #58. Theirs nothing else being powered by the #58 bus line. Beware there's a #58l and #58r on the headlight switch also. Those are for the taillights.
Both the fog light switch and license plate lights get their power from the #58 bus line. The #58 bus line power originates from the headlight switch terminal #58. Theirs nothing else being powered by the #58 bus line. Beware there's a #58l and #58r on the headlight switch also. Those are for the taillights.
09-14-2016, 04:01 AM
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I remember you helping With some stuff on my '84 Project car back a few years.
Anyways, when I'm under the dash and such, thie late car feels completely different. Does the #58 bus line og to the headlights themselves? Or does it come from the switch?
I do remember my licence plate lights working, so they might have died when I shorted something and lost power on the #3 pin on the fog lights switch. Which seems reasonable seeing that they get their power from the same spot. (No wires are burnt)
All my other lights operate like normal.
Anyways, when I'm under the dash and such, thie late car feels completely different. Does the #58 bus line og to the headlights themselves? Or does it come from the switch?
I do remember my licence plate lights working, so they might have died when I shorted something and lost power on the #3 pin on the fog lights switch. Which seems reasonable seeing that they get their power from the same spot. (No wires are burnt)
All my other lights operate like normal.
09-14-2016, 09:55 AM
#4
The #58 bus comes from the headlight switch and goes to the "E" connector, pin #9 (on the fuse/relay box) but splits to a second wire at the pin that then goes to the fog light switch. Power for the fog light switch doesn't go through the fuse/relay box.
The license plate lights gets it's power from the same "E" connector, pin #9 that powers the fog light switch but this time power goes into the fuse/relay box, through fuse #12, out the "F" connector, pin #13 to the license plate lights.
The entire #58 bus line is grey/green in color. Beware that other circuit's may share the same colors also and that this is how the early cars are wired but I think I provided enough information to get on the right track.
The license plate lights gets it's power from the same "E" connector, pin #9 that powers the fog light switch but this time power goes into the fuse/relay box, through fuse #12, out the "F" connector, pin #13 to the license plate lights.
The entire #58 bus line is grey/green in color. Beware that other circuit's may share the same colors also and that this is how the early cars are wired but I think I provided enough information to get on the right track.
09-14-2016, 10:53 AM
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OK. I checked what I could from under the dash and looking through the little opening I could when loosening the fuse box. All wires there looks fine.
Then I proceeded to check EVERY fuse in the fusebox. And whaddayouknow? #39(interior light) was blown. Replaced it and now I got power on the #3 pin on the fog light switch socket, and on the wires at the licence plate lights. They don't light up, so I suppose I gotta deal with those rounded out screws to replace the bulbs and clean the housings. At least now I know the wiring is alright all the way to the light housing itself. Safe to say we can cross off the licence plate lights now, I got dead bulbs or a corroded/broken housing.
But back to the fog light switches. I don't have a printer atm so I can't print out the wiring diagram. Meaning I can't follow bus #58 efficiently on my computer or phone.
But now I know that pin #3 on the fog lights switch get it's power from fuse #38 and the interior light circut, together with the licence plate lights. Meaning that might just be for the indication light in the switch itself. And now power to the lights up front.
Do you know which pin on fog light switch should have constant power when the lights are on? I would guess that's the wire from the 9E is the one that goes into pin #3 on the switch. SHould I see 12v on another pin as well?
And further more, which pins on the switch send the power to the fog lights? (This goes through Fuse #5 and G11 relay too, right?) By giving those pins 12v my fogs should turn on.
All this might have been so easy as two dead switches, a couple dead bulbs and a blown fuse.
Then I proceeded to check EVERY fuse in the fusebox. And whaddayouknow? #39(interior light) was blown. Replaced it and now I got power on the #3 pin on the fog light switch socket, and on the wires at the licence plate lights. They don't light up, so I suppose I gotta deal with those rounded out screws to replace the bulbs and clean the housings. At least now I know the wiring is alright all the way to the light housing itself. Safe to say we can cross off the licence plate lights now, I got dead bulbs or a corroded/broken housing.
But back to the fog light switches. I don't have a printer atm so I can't print out the wiring diagram. Meaning I can't follow bus #58 efficiently on my computer or phone.
But now I know that pin #3 on the fog lights switch get it's power from fuse #38 and the interior light circut, together with the licence plate lights. Meaning that might just be for the indication light in the switch itself. And now power to the lights up front.
Do you know which pin on fog light switch should have constant power when the lights are on? I would guess that's the wire from the 9E is the one that goes into pin #3 on the switch. SHould I see 12v on another pin as well?
And further more, which pins on the switch send the power to the fog lights? (This goes through Fuse #5 and G11 relay too, right?) By giving those pins 12v my fogs should turn on.
All this might have been so easy as two dead switches, a couple dead bulbs and a blown fuse.
09-14-2016, 01:07 PM
#6
My wiring diagram does not show a #3 pin on the fog light switch so I can't answer that. However I can't see how the dome light fuse affects both the license plate lights or fog lights. It seems like it's a loose connection repaired by the disturbance created while you were under the dash. Anyhow I glad to hear that the fog and license plate lights are now working.
09-14-2016, 01:47 PM
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Update: I just did some testing. Turns out both the #2 #4 pins on the switch gives the fog lights power. When I gave either one of those power, the fogs lit up. Wierd, why have two when only one is used. Back up? Two different types of switches?
Then I checked my switches.
#3 doesn't have any continuity with any of the other pins. But #6 has continuity with #2.
Went to check #6 at the socket again, and I got 12 volt there now. Something I did has brought life back to that pin. If it's relay, fuse or just a bad contact, I'm not sure. Maybe it's those headlight wires I fixed yesterday. But my fogs(and switches) now work. Thanks as usual Marc!
Summary of the fog switch itself for those in the future who's gonna end up here with a search:
Pin #1 is ground
Pin #2 is power to the fog lights
Pin #3 is power to the light in the switch itself. This is connected through the instrument light fuse
Pin #4 is aldo power to the fog light
Pin #5 is not used
Pin #6 is power to the switch, this powers pin#2 when switch is activated.
Then I checked my switches.
#3 doesn't have any continuity with any of the other pins. But #6 has continuity with #2.
Went to check #6 at the socket again, and I got 12 volt there now. Something I did has brought life back to that pin. If it's relay, fuse or just a bad contact, I'm not sure. Maybe it's those headlight wires I fixed yesterday. But my fogs(and switches) now work. Thanks as usual Marc!
Summary of the fog switch itself for those in the future who's gonna end up here with a search:
Pin #1 is ground
Pin #2 is power to the fog lights
Pin #3 is power to the light in the switch itself. This is connected through the instrument light fuse
Pin #4 is aldo power to the fog light
Pin #5 is not used
Pin #6 is power to the switch, this powers pin#2 when switch is activated.