83 944 wiring question
#1
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Thread Starter
83 944 wiring question
I was under the dash yesterday, examining my fuse block..Apparently the PO had an issue on fuse #4, because of signs of arcing and the fuse being gone. Looking at the wire coming from the fuse position and the wiring diagram, leaves me a bit puzzled. The wire is a very heavy white wire with a red tracer. The wiring diagram only shows a white wire, running to the right headlight. Is this like every one else's ? Or am I in the wrong spot on the diagram? Thanks for your input...
#2
You mean fuse number 4 on the additional fuse board. This fuse and the white/red cable is for the rear window heater. It is in Part IV of the original circuit diagram. My fuse also melted one time - it was more a slow decay of the fuse due to excessive heat at the fuse itself. I replaced it with a real ceramic one (not plastic) and cleanded the fuse terminals and it was never an issue again.
#4
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Tiger I don't know about your hatch defrost, but on my car (originally from NH until I got it in 2013) the electrical "jumpers" between the hatch and the gas struts were corroded badly... the copper wiring on the extremities of the wires were green from oxidation, and in general the circuit was visually in poor shape.
#5
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I've replaced the rear gas struts and now the hatch stays open. My hatch to defroster wires were badly corroded also. However, now the attach point for the grid came loose and I have to go with a rather expensive solution of an electrically conductive epoxy. I'm scared about cracking the rear hatch glass if I try for a re-solder of the joint. The wires at the hinge point look a bit "weathered". Not sure if this is where the problem is, but along with the rest of the car, will be fixed. Year #4 coming up this summer, and still never driven. Sigh.
#7
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I've replaced the rear gas struts and now the hatch stays open. My hatch to defroster wires were badly corroded also. However, now the attach point for the grid came loose and I have to go with a rather expensive solution of an electrically conductive epoxy. I'm scared about cracking the rear hatch glass if I try for a re-solder of the joint. The wires at the hinge point look a bit "weathered". Not sure if this is where the problem is, but along with the rest of the car, will be fixed. Year #4 coming up this summer, and still never driven. Sigh.
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#8
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That's right, Tempest. It was rescued from a guy's back yard where it's previous PO (I guess I'm about #3or 4) had let it sit for about 4 years. All total it's been sitting about 10 years in the New Hampshire elements. Hopefully the fresh engine will be going back into it this spring or early summer. The TT has to go in first, however, which is almost finished. To be perfectly honest, I've only driven a Porsche once, and it was a 356, many years ago. Then it was only an around-the-block excursion. Nice but not as exhilirating as a TR3 or XK140 at the time. So, for now, I'll keep plugging along, fixing this and that, and installing new(er) or better parts as needed. As expected, this all requires many mini-projects that will ultimately reward me (I hope) into a nice daily driver that I can give to my son when I'm too old to drive it any longer. Thanks, sorry for the ramble.
Last edited by Tiger03447; 03-25-2016 at 11:57 AM. Reason: added puctuation
#10
Rennlist Member
That's right, Tempest. It was rescued from a guy's back yard where it's previous PO (I guess I'm about #3or 4) had let it sit for about 4 years. All total it's been sitting about 10 years in the New Hampshire elements. Hopefully the fresh engine will be going back into it this spring or early summer. The TT has to go in first, however, which is almost finished. To be perfectly honest, I've only driven a Porsche once, and it was a 356, many years ago. Then it was only an around-the-block excursion. Nice but not as exhilirating as a TR3 or XK140 at the time. So, for now, I'll keep plugging along, fixing this and that, and installing new(er) or better parts as needed. As expected, this all requires many mini-projects that will ultimately reward me (I hope) into a nice daily driver that I can give to my son when I'm too old to drive it any longer. Thanks, sorry for the ramble.
#12
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Thank you for the offer! I am intent on getting an early model though..I've already got a full suspension for it, an NOS early AFM, and Bosch-rebuilt DME for one
#13
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Thread Starter
The roller is pretty gutted..the guys who stripped it left half of a 2.7 L block(I think), the TT and the clutch. The wiring was hacked up, and the dash was removed..Still has the gearshift, 2 good rear gas struts, and a pair of early seats? mostly frames..out of my '83. Tail lights, and headlights, parking lights, all gone. Still have the front valence though..Fenders are good..(I'm keeping the Left front and the hood, along with the nose panel, which on my '83 were crunched..Still has the suspension under it along with the power steering..Could be rebuilt into anything you might want.
#14
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How is C-pillar trim on the '89, Rich? I have a friend with a 951 looking for some in good shape... preferably black.
Also, I have a 1983 harness if you end up needing one, although it's better off as a core for rebuild. I'm happy to measure/photograph any areas of it for reference for your project.
Also, I have a 1983 harness if you end up needing one, although it's better off as a core for rebuild. I'm happy to measure/photograph any areas of it for reference for your project.