kevin12973

Not bad, this is what my pick up screen looked like.

odonnell

Cam tower came off fine, I got some Matco long allen sockets and no issue, thanks though! Ball-ends are an accident waiting to happen, FYI for anyone reading this who is about to do this. I definitely want to lower c/r, if I could find some 951 pistons for cheap I'd be all over that.

do you know where all that is from? Holy crap. I have been taking a ton of pics - let me know if there are any I can post that would help in any way. And of course best of luck with your build Kevin!

951Dreams

Whhhhhaaattttt? They make such a thing for the stock DME????? What? Where? How??? Links! Info!! I seen stand along knock sensors, but nothing that works to pull timing!!! I want this!!!!

odonnell

No DME in my car

Tripl7

What are you looking to spend on pistons? I have a set I pulled out of my 89 turbo block I no longer need.

odonnell

I was thinking like $100 shipped, otherwise I'll stick with cast pistons. I'm only going to be running low boost anyway.

joeystanker

Mike, she's purring just fine :-)

Dood, great pics.
When you put it back together you will know every piece and what shape it's in.
The mysteries will stay on the internet and out of your engine bay :-)

Great work my friend.

951Dreams

Drat! I don't think it's in this thread, what management are you using?

odonnell

Thanks! That's good to hear!

MegaSquirt, thread here. I still haven't done half the things on my original to-do list... my new job started and life has gotten super busy. I saw your thread as well, best of luck! You may want to use the new pistons as an excuse to have it chip tuned, unless you want to dump $1000+ into a custom setup. Stock 944 tune is pretty lackluster. With a 4* advance key, you could really get some pep.

Well for this engine rebuild, I'm a little stuck on the crank bolt. I have a 1/2" Ingersoll-Rand impact and borrowed a buddy's compressor that was rated at ~5 CFM at 90 psi and the bolt wouldn't budge. But the compressor was leaking at the regulator so I'm going to get my own compressor this week and have a second go. I can't really use leverage, as I would simply tip over the stand or put excessive stress on the threads at the back of the block where the stand connects (bellhousing bolts). I may just carefully drill it.

V2Rocket

Michael,
With the pan off you can turn the engine upside down, and put a 2x4 between the crank weights and the block wall.

Then you can lever against the crank bolt. I have done it with just a foot holding the stand, or by putting the stand/engine against a wall or something.

Tiger03447

Sounds like it might be time for a cheater on the breaker bar..+1 on what Spencer said. Might have to use a 3/4" breaker and socket...!/2" rig might break the breaker bar.

odonnell

I'll give a bigger bar a shot. I put my full body weight on an 18" long bar while a buddy braced the block (I had used wood holding the crank like V2 suggested). Everything is off the block except the oil pump.

StoogeMoe

That's a lesson for the future. Always crack that bolt free while the engine is in the car.

FRporscheman

Early engines had cross-drilled cranks. Or at least the one that I bought did.

odonnell

Yep, 82 through early 84 motors were cross-drilled. That plus forged rods, and my familiarity/parts stash with early parts, led me to this long block.