CVR_Rally

Today I wanted to see what wire(s) were shorting to ground preventing me from having a clock and interior lights. I pulled up the fusebox and based on what I believed to be the correct block based on the wire color I removed the connector with the pink trim. I tested a fuse in the the short and it did not blow so this was the correct one.

I identified three wires that have continuity to ground.
GN/BR
GN
GR/BL

GN seems to connect to the clock and shows D82, G82, L82 on the wiring diagram.

GR/BL connects to the pot that adjust the dimmer and cig lighter?

I cannot locate the GN/BR in the wiring diagram (although the BR looks more orange)

The fuse that controls these blows the moment you install it so one of these three wires has a short. The crazy part is the wire looms all look pristine.


Any help is greatly appreciated.

Chris

Arominus

Check the overhead lights and glove box lights for shorts, i broke the connector on my glove box light when putting my dash back together, clock and lights worked fine for a while but then the wire moved, shorted and boom. no more clock.

CVR_Rally

Those are fine. I've gone as far as disconnecting everything known to connect to the fuse at the same time. Plus, the wires that run to the glovebox are not the colors that have continuity to ground.

CVR_Rally

Here some links I found to be super helpful in this quest.

https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...-diagrams.html

And a video

Chris

Van

Good video.

I don't know about those specific wires... but if they're going to the clock, dimmer and lighter socket, what I'd do is unplug each of them from their respective components and then see if it blows the fuse. If not, then your problem is with a specific component. If it does, then the problem is likely in the wiring loom. But I have a hunch you're going to find one of the components suspect.

CVR_Rally

Yes I have pulled everything at the same time and it still cooks the fuse. I'm printing all the wiring diagrams and will see if I can trace them all.

CVR_Rally

I have reviewed the wiring diagrams for Fuse 11. The only color that is part of F11 that is grounding is K43 which goes to the buzzer contact. I read somewhere that this is the switch on the seatbelt harness that activates the gong?

The other part I need help identifying is the Red wire coming off the cigarette lighter that shows going to the instrument cluster to something labeled HSA. I have no idea what that is.

UPDATE:
As I wrote this I continued to trace the Green which leads around the clock. The PO installed an aftermarket radio. I see GN also continues to the radio and as that is shorting to ground I have a sneaking suspicion that although the radio works I am getting a short to ground on the green.

Chris

Van

You might be onto something!

CVR_Rally

Well no so much luck yet. I had a little time tonight and pulled the radio out...what a rat's nest of wires from the PO.

Well there is only the larger 2.5 GN wire that supplies voltage when the key is turned. This works properly. I think I misread the diagram and than the 1.0 GN wire is showing coming from the harness but really is going to the clock pin 15.

The other GN wire coming from F11 is going to something called a "Buzzer Contact". Where the heck is that?
The diagram says the other end of this contact connects to G16 (The Gong Relay). The gong works on doors, headlights, etc. I don't think it works with the seatbelt but I see a 2nd switch for that listed.

The 3rd picture shows the part I mean. I put the other two up for 1.0 GN wire reference.

Chris

Van

I think "buzzer contact" is the little switch in the door sill. I've seen these these stop working...

Does your dome light work? How about if you can operate the electric windows before you open the doors, but after you turn the key off?

CVR_Rally

The door switches are different and have several wires coming from them. They do work and set the gong off. No dome light because that's on the F11 leg and has a short. I originally had hoped it was one of the light contacts causing the failure but only the GN lead tests to ground.
Unless you mean somewhere else?

This is the door switch and it is listed on a different page.

If I cannot find this buzzer contact part which may be where the short is I am going to remove the GN lead from the block at the fusebox and see if I can get a fuse to hold.

EDIT:
Looks like the only place the GN from Fuse11 goes is this Buzzer Contact switch. The GN on the clock is suppose to be tied to the continuous voltage same as the radio from what I can see. That probably supplies the backup voltage so that it doesn't lose time.
The GR wire comes from the light switch so I gather that controls the backlight.

CVR_Rally

UPDATE:
Tonight I pulled the K block from the fuse panel again to see what was shorting.
Sure enough it is the green one...but I didn't notice before the same point has a BLUE wire. Nowhere in the wiring diagram for the entire K block is there supposed to be a blue wire.

I removed the connector from the block, re-assembled it, and put a fuse in F11. It now holds. However I still don't have a clock or interior lights but the Cig higher light came on. Now I can finally start testing voltages and see what's actually working.

But as for the mystery wires here is a pic. I pulled this from K43 on the wiring diagram.

Chris

CVR_Rally

The wiring in my particular car sure is funky.
By removing that connector I now have power to the interior light (which works on the passenger door switch but not the drivers), Cig lighter and Clock.

I think the clock is only getting half the power as the PO's terrible wiring job with the radio seems to indicate a missing green wire that is supposed to supply power. That's tomorrow's job.

On an unrelated side note I did repair the rear defroster but installing proper hatch shocks.