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orbix, what other mods do you have on your car?
With some creative tuning I have been able to pass emissions here in CO 3 times with a gutted cat. I don't have the cam advanced yet, but that last time I passed I had several other mods that should have made it difficult to pass.
Nothing yet- aside from a throttle response cam (which has no impact on emissions, obviously), it's bone-stock. I'm just not familiar with how much wiggle room there is on emissions, so I'm trying to be overly conservative, at least to start with. That all said, it's not like I'm going to get a pile of power out of an NA anyhow- I'm more interested in the cam offset because of the downward shift in the power band than any actual overall increase.
My 944 sailed through CO emissions in April. I was concerned over an old car with unknown history. I Sea Foamed the intake (which I have since learned is useless), ran fuel system cleaner through it, replaced the plugs and wires.
I had exceptionally low particulate counts and a great result. So, it seems that 944s have a lot of overhead as it pertains to passing emissions, here.
My 944 sailed through CO emissions in April. I was concerned over an old car with unknown history. I Sea Foamed the intake (which I have since learned is useless), ran fuel system cleaner through it, replaced the plugs and wires.
I had exceptionally low particulate counts and a great result. So, it seems that 944s have a lot of overhead as it pertains to passing emissions, here.
That is basically what I was getting at. If you are stock a small change like that isn't going to be a problem. My guess would be that if your cat is in good condition that small of a change would probably be almost unnoticeable.
How close were the emissions before?
So after about 3 weeks of driving with the throttle response cam, I'm actually thinking I might pull it back off and go back to stock. What I think I'd ideally use would be halfway between stock and the round cam- It's a lot harder to get the clutch engagement and takeoff smooth with the round cam, and maintaining a steady speed while cruising is a bit harder as well, but the more immediate response IS nice.
If this were a weekend warrior or track car, I'd say it'd be perfect, but for a daily, it's just a little too 'raw' feeling to be comfortable. Think I might swap the stock cam back and drive it that way for a bit and see which I prefer. Luckily, it's a super-simple swap, unlike damned near anything else on the car!
Keep driving with it.
I urge you, if you really like your car...lol. You will get used to it and find you can more precisely control the throttle than ever before.
I drove a friend's 944 a while back with the stock cam... it felt like it had 80hp until I was halfway into the throttle. I was having a hard time keeping up with the flow of traffic for a few minutes until I got used to it.
So after about 3 weeks of driving with the throttle response cam, I'm actually thinking I might pull it back off and go back to stock. What I think I'd ideally use would be halfway between stock and the round cam- It's a lot harder to get the clutch engagement and takeoff smooth with the round cam, and maintaining a steady speed while cruising is a bit harder as well, but the more immediate response IS nice.
If this were a weekend warrior or track car, I'd say it'd be perfect, but for a daily, it's just a little too 'raw' feeling to be comfortable. Think I might swap the stock cam back and drive it that way for a bit and see which I prefer. Luckily, it's a super-simple swap, unlike damned near anything else on the car!
FYI, I'm not in to drag racing (love NASCAR) Don Garlits who pioneered the rear engine dragster got the rear engine dragster to work by shorting the pitman arm and slowing down the steering. I never tryed the round cam, but l vote for the stocker. Sometimes less is more.
I got the key so I could do the 4 deg advance, but I'm having trouble with the install. I checked out Clark's garage for instructions. I've got the rotor(13) off and have removed the little screw (27), but can't pull out the piece that the rotor attaches to(26). Clark's said to heat the collar which I've tried, but I can't get that piece do budge. Any tips on how to get it out?
That piece is a huge pain to get out. This is what I do. Reinstall the little screw for the rotor, but leave the rotor off. Wrap the piece with a rag, so you cover the screw as well. Using channel-locking pliers, grab the piece and spin it left and right as you pull outward. It's slow, but it will come out eventually. The screw is there to give the pliers leverage to spin the shaft piece.
I wonder if there's a socket that would fit over it (with the screw) and do this job better...
Don't squeeze the pliers so tight that they mar the surface. Layer up more rags if needed. Use that little screw to turn the shaft, not the squeezing force of the pliers.
I couldn't get it to move that way. I finally just clamped down on it with the vise grips and still couldn't get it to move. I ended up putting a pry bar to the adjusting **** of the vise grips and pounding it out with a hammer. Even that took a long time. There was something kind of yellow and crusty on it like someone had put something in there that was acting like a glue.
Now I've got to file down the scoring from the vise grips or see if Lart has a good one.
What I think I'd ideally use would be halfway between stock and the round cam
After a while more driving w/ the round cam, I'm still on the fence. I end up dealing w/ a few school zones near me and 20 mph is a tough goal w/ the modded cam, but it's just not that much of a deal in the long run...
10-05-2015, 02:17 PM
83 944
