Fronkenstein

Actually it wouldn't be too hard. There are no controls outside of fuel pressure and a WUR. The hardest part is the manifold adaptation.

Calibration is a function of the TB and air / fuel distribution system. There are tons of 4 and 6 cylinder CIS systems of similar displacement out there.

I may do it just to prove it

Fronkenstein

Tiger03447

Where in NH are you? I'm in Keene.

Fronkenstein

The car is in Francestown for the winter where my shop is.

Fronkenstein

Decided to stick with Rogue stuff. Engine breakdown this weekend.

Fronkenstein

oefporschelover

lots of pics please

Fronkenstein

You betcha

Fronkenstein

Ok sorry to say but I think I am going to wimp out on this 2.5L project. I just got a line on a complete 968 3.0 drive train with 81K on it for $3700. It includes everything from engine, to DME, to harnesses, clutch, etc, etc.

I will keep you all posted as to my final decision, but considering I am looking at spending nearly that much to finish this 2.5L to my expectations, I think the 3.0 is the way to go. If anyone has a strong opinion as to why I should not do this please feel free.

Fronkenstein

924srr27l

Never go for the easiest cheapest option........!


Where's the fun and achievement in that ?


Anyone can stick a bigger lump in....


Only lunatics like me would buy a 924s for $2500 and then spend $30,000 changing everything on it !!!


www.924srr27L.co.uk


R.

Fronkenstein

Yeah well my shop is 90 minutes away. I was just diagnosed with psoriatic arthritis which has been limiting my abilities to travel 3 hours round trip once a week and work a full time job in the wealth management world. Not to mention I've already got a very hungry 928 project that is 90% (on the road but has the usual loose ends). As of now to go the 2.5L route I am going to immediately have to outlay:

• $900 - Milledge Cam
• $1000 - 4451ASR timing and reduction pulleys
• $400 - Rings
• $1200 - Rubber
• $400 - Brake consumables
• $600 - Rogue DME
• $400 - Injectors
• $200 - Misc Lindsey items
• $500 - Head cleanup

That's $6000 right off the bat and I already have that into the car. Yes I know that we don't do this for the ROI, its for the fun of it. However I think it would be more fun to take a 3.0L, remove the variocam and put a turbo on the front end and get 400HP for $6000. Maybe I'm crazy but that sounds like a lot of fun to me So the trade-off is $6K for 200HP or $6K for 400HP.

I dunno... Still thinking through the options. Trust me I've built enough "just because I can" cars and motorcycles so this one is under scrutiny. The one thing that keeps me from completely bailing is that the car is in amazing condition. The interior is perfect and there is zero rot on the car. Ah well just another indecisive day

Fronkenstein

odonnell

The 968 engine is going to be a great upgrade, plus it will respond better to future upgrades due to better head flow, to me that seems like the way to go if you are going to spend that money anyway.

$400 is really steep for injectors...I paid $100 for a set of rebuilt 33# from a Saab, 5 year warranty. If you're going Rogue you can set it up for non-stock sized injectors and save money there. You could even get some EV6 injectors which offer a better 4-way nozzle pattern and everything would work.

BoulderGeek

Michael or others: do you know if EV6 injectors would work in a 944 NA?

One could get 27lb EV6 injectors at $60 for 6.

I refurbed my stock Bosch injectors last summer, but cracked a hat, and now get a little fuel weepage after hard running.

924srr27l

Ok Point taken, but if your going turbo you want a big valve head 2.7 not 16 Valve twincam ?


It all depends what the criteria is ?


As much power as possible or a good driveable all rounder ?


if it's the later.........just bolt in the 968 lump and gear and leave it...saving money for the 928 ?

R

odonnell

Physically, yes they would fit.

You can probably use high-z EV6 injectors and get away with it... the reason low-z injectors were stock is because back then, the pintles were heavier and the coil needed to have more current flowing through it to get it off it's seat fast enough. Modern injectors have lighter moving parts and more efficient designs, so as long as the flow rate is correct, you could probably get away with it. Less current going through the DME's drivers as well.

I recently took some data from a website and made it into an Excel file for quickly finding appropriate injectors. I attached it here. It's sorted by flow rate (NA 8v 944 is 248 cc/min) and then sorted by impedance.

It looks like there are a lot of options. I've looked into this before and injectors from a 02-04 Ford Explorer 4.0 should be plug and play. They are Bosch 0280156028, you can find them pretty cheap on ebay and the like.

Edit: they may not be plug and play... EV6 comes in "short" and "long" with respect to the distance between the O-rings. Our cars need the long style, IIRC. You would need to look at data sheets and make sure it's pretty close, for whatever injectors you are interested in. I can't tell about these from the pics.

BoulderGeek

Thank you so much for working that out!

Wonderfully helpful info.

I scored a cheap set of Grand Cherokee 4.0L Bosch EV6es. We'll see if they work. If not, I can steal the hats and refurb my OEMs.

Thanks very much for the time in replying. OK, hijack over!

Fronkenstein

Thanks for that. While the hardcore hotrodder in me wants to plod along with the 2.5L, that same guy wants more torque and more potential than trying to hammer 200HP out of a performance limited 2.5L. Granted in the realm of performance the 3.0L isn't exactly a champ by today's standards either. And yeah I was figuring worst case NIB injectors. I kinda figured that Ford or Volvo would work.