FIA-F1

So we all have made some bad decisions with car repairs. One of my worst ones was to not replace the front seals when I did the timing belt and water pump. It didn't seem to leak much before the job, well it leaks a lot now, especially the crank seal. I'm just going to buy more oil for now until the next timing belt job but I'm getting increasing frustrated with the oil on the garage floor.
So the rear seals do not seem to be leaking. But I understand that is a WHOLE other level of job, pull the engine, etc. So my question is, would I be stupid twice by not changing the rear seals next time I do the belts or significant engine work. Car has 101k now. I've noticed that on these forums, you have to throw out the "high" and "low" responses...guys that overhaul their car with a pocket knife and think nothing of it and the guys who say every Porsche consumes a quart a week. What's the realistic answer?

Eric_Oz_S2

I wouldn't change the rear seal until you do the clutch as its a heap of work otherwise. Mine was barely leaking at that mileage, only a slight weep.

carlege

Did you choose to not replace them because you did it a time before OR did you have no idea when the last time they were changed and just made a bad decision.

mytrplseven

One of the biggest reasons for doing them earlier than later is the oil and accumulating dirt the bottom of your car is getting, the longer this goes on. I've always said that if you start to see one leak, more will surely follow because all the rubber seals on this car are of the same age and have hardened over time.

On my last car, I decided to do them all, front and rear. They were all leaking. The overall benefit, the intensive labor notwithstanding, is that all the seals are intact and I now have a new clutch, serviced transaxle and CV's, belts, rollers and water pump. Its ultimately very satisfying to know your car is tight, dry and reliable.

Van

Do you mean the rear main seal (RMS) that's behind the tranny, behind the torque tube, behind the bell housing, behind the pressure plate, behind the clutch disk, behind the flywheel? Or do you mean the rear balance shaft seals (o-ring around the aluminum plug)?

But, typically, my rule of thumb is: if it's not leaking, don't change it. If it's leaking a little, change it while you're in there (which you failed to do). If it's leaking a lot, change it despite not having a ready to be in there.

SloMo228

I did the FOES when I did belts/rollers/WP but I still have a number of leaks - oil cooler housing, rear balance shaft seals, oil pan gasket, and rear main seal. It's really tempting just to yank the engine and redo everything at once. But unless oil is gushing out, you're not going to do damage by letting the leak continue until you can get to it, assuming you keep your oil level topped off.

I'm leaving the RMS until I need a clutch or have to pull the engine for some other reason. Fortunately, it's the least leaky of all my leaks, so once I stop up the other, more accessible leaks, it probably won't even drip anymore.

Auto_Werks 3.6

This is the best way to operate these cars. You can waste a LOT of money replacing things that aren't broken. The flip side of this however is if you are paying someone to do the work, its probably always better to pay for the parts and have it all done at once, rather than paying the labor twice. I would also argue that if working on these cars is stressful for you, or you don't have a good work space, I would consider doing it all at once to limit your opprotunities for wrenching throughout the year. In my case, I enjoy working on these cars, and I have a barn where they can sit if they need to, so I don't go overboard with while Im in there type things.

In this case it sounded like they were not leaking at the time, you made the right decision, and gambled and lost. It happens that way sometimes. Now that you have done the belts, I bet you can get back to the seals in about 2 hours. I STILL wouldn't do the rear seal unless its really leaking, you will add at least 12 hours of work to do that repair on top of the front end, and in this case it is not a while youre in there repair. Stay, the course, fix the trouble makers, and enjoy. Oil soaked timing belts have been known to last a fraction of the time that a dry belt does, so it is prudent to change the seals if you're making a mess inside those covers.

thomasmryan

I muttered 'when does it stop' a few times. Did a complete FOES and pressure testing showed coolant coming from the oil housing..what's 35 more bucks and an alignment tool.

After it thourough cleaning and a few 100 miles, more oil down the front. I was a little pissed but I used the cheap kit seals so I thought the first run was just practice.

I got a rod bearing kit and installed it with a new pan and oil level sender gasket...low and behold, the front stayed dry. DRY and CLEAN)))

No oil....woohoo ....until the pressure line for the power steering started dripping. I wrapped it in a towel and cable ties..UPS is delivering it today.

Might get the old oriental rug out for her to sleep on when she quits bleeding.

plumbum

I would not change the rear seals unless they are leaking fairly bad and you are going in that end of the engine anyway.

I go through hardly any oil...at the moment I have a small leak around the sender area that I will be addressing but it is maybe a drop a drive at best. (knock on wood)

FIA-F1

Immediately after a drive, there is some oil all over the undercarriage and engine. I would dry everything with a towel and watch to see where the oil is leaking from. Slowly, I would see a drip forming and making its way down right from the center of the main crank belt drive at the front of the engine. But, when the car is parked, and after I clean all the oil off, no additional oil drips except for the one or two residual drops from the same place (so the engine doesn't leak when not running). There is no evidence of an oil leak anywhere else, none. However, when it is running, it must leaking pretty good because there is oil all over, obviously spread around by the moving air. I'm going to estimate a quart every 200 miles. On my stupid decision, before the timing belt was done, I didn't drive the car much at all because the belts hadn't been done in seven years, stored for five. Duh, of course I didn't see much leakage... because I didn't drive it. The guy helping me with belts said "you SURE you don't want to do the seals?? I told him I didn't think they needed replacing. So, the advice I am seeking is, as I go to replace the front seals (4 of them is it?) what other seals should I do while I'm in there? The responses so far are helpful, thank you.

porscharu

It is more than four seals. There are three for each balance shaft (seal, o-ring, onion skin) and crank seal. It can snow ball once you start pulling parts, ask me how I know. Check around the power steering pump, suction hose, rack, and reservoir. I would check the camshaft seal because it can be a bear. If the races have a groove that you can catch a nail on replace them, but don't mistake a polished lip that has some varnishing and a worn groove. Grease the onion skin.