Noahs944

Hi,

I think my starter is on it's way out. I'd like to purchase a hi torque starter (and then get it sent to Canada). Any idea where to buy?

Also, plan on replacing the fuel pump at some point as a maintenance item. Do What other seals/gaskets do you recommend I replace when doing the pump?

Thank you,

N

thomasmryan

Those high torque things need a shielded reference and speed senors as the EMF apparently can cause some kick back with errant signals. Be nice if denso made our starters but Bosch factory rebuilds would be the next best. Just cleaned mine but it is a replacement

I would just start with the PET and a pencil. Go from the strainer seal to the under body hard line with your parts list and google away. Sunset and ecs have the greatest value but there is a waiting time. During this time you will realize which critical parts you forgot and then other things break! Lol...it just doesn't end))

Ian has kits for some stuff. I like that. He is faster than most.

Parts container on eBay ships out of Nashville and carries most OEM hard parts. The company that calls themselves oem but isn't, should be brought to everyone's attention but it is kinda obvious.

Ordered a power steering line last night....she bleeds again but this time from the high pressure line. Amazon happened to be the cheapest but the cabled tied towel to the line should suck most of it up until it arrives.

Got on some fresh pavement last night through redneck suburbia and threw some gravel into the front brake rotors. Some passed through but not all of it...my spine cringed with the sound of the ones passing through but I am sensing a slight imbalance. I think I will have Chinese for lunch and make use of the chopsticks tonight.

V2Rocket

why hi-torque?
a fresh 944-spec starter will fire the engine up with about 2 cranks.
and its weight down low

keep a fuel pump spare but don't replace it until you need to...but when you do you might as well replace the tank-to-pump hose and the pump-to-filter hose, and the filter.

wildcat077

+1

I had my original starter rebuilt ... should be good for another 10 years !
As for the fuel pump,Spencer is right !!!

Cheers
Phil

snb13

Ideola used to sell a lighter, high torque unit, but it looks like he's closed indefinitely. A /2 model is lighter than the early starters.

SloMo228

The early starter is enormous. I don't know what the weight difference is, but the late starter must at least be a little lighter.

odonnell

Only issue with the late starter is the EM interference with the reference sensors, like thomasryan said. It's really only an issue if you have a "notched" bellhousing (done by an end user usually during a clutch job).

944Phil

+1 on the notched bellhousing thing. Happened to me. I'd stick with a rebuild starter.

Noahs944

OMG... I think you've figured out my rough start & rough idle problem Michael!

Ever since my clutch job my idle has been crappy. And start up often begins with gas pedal to the floor to open up the airflow because Wilson runs rich.

I cut the notch.

Any suggestions on how to shield the references? Does the shielding need to be grounded?

... man, I would have NEVER figured this out on my own.

Noahs944

Thank you for sharing your knowledge Thomas! Do the reference signals need shielding from the starter & from each other? ...sounds like it.

thomasmryan

944 101 320 00 is the part number for the shield.

It is best, 'Internet wisdom', to use the old school heavy starter if the housing is notched.

The kick back caused by stray magnetic field is just during starting and should not cause idle issues.

Noahs944

WOW a part number! Thank you. So the series 1 starter should be a direct bolt in then?

thomasmryan

it is a quandary since you have pumped the compression up a bit...a high torque model, which is lighter, and a non notched and shielded sensors may be your best bet in the long run. or find a preper with some extra old wheel weights and pour a sensor bracket out of lead...lol

short term, I would just get the normal starter.

Noahs944

hahaha.... after doing some googling I concluded the same.

I was pumped about an American made hi-torque starter so that I could get further from the 3" collector at the header. She's a very tight fit already, I am not sure a series 1 starter would even fit. And the extra weight makes me shy.

Hey, some good news though: Wilson (the car) has a "B" sensor shield from factory, but I pulled both the B&D sensors and neither has the top "figure eight washer" as shown in this article: http://www.arnnworx.com/sensors.htm

I know the distance from the triggers on the flywheel to the ref/speed sensors are in spec as I set them myself... but did so with the sensors bolted to the bracket. I just realized however that there is a gap between the bellhousing & the bracket, which would naturally allow more EM Interference than without the gap, no?

Would it be prudent make metal shield "cape" that wraps around the back side of the sensors?

odonnell

The thing to understand about the sensors is that their signal voltage increases as RPMs increase because they are VR, which produces alternating current when steel passes by it. So at cranking it may be around 1v RMS but at 6000rpm may be 50v. So it's plausible that crappy idle can be caused by a noisy VR signal.

Your sensor wires already have a grounded sheath around them to protect the signal so any noise is probably coming from stray EMF around the sensors themselves because the bellhousing is notched.

(shameless plug for a standalone conversion, I'm running a hall effect sensor on the front of the crank which has a 12v square wave signal at all times, no noise issues).