thomasmryan

I would just set it to specs or maybe just a slightly smaller gap to get a stronger peak to peak waveform. In my little dreamworld, the shielding would be better served with a co-axial cable all the way to the DME. The shield looses it's encapsulating feature at the plug connector so the signal wire is vulnerable there also.

Someone gave me an old merc that has semi metallic front pads and the wheel sensor gets crap on it all the time..easy access though. Probably could clean them at a long red light.

snb13

And just because I happened across this thread- post #16:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...che-944-a.html

thomasmryan

Like candy..pounce on it.

Noahs944

Thomas... hey man thanks a million. I WOULD pounce on it like a wild cheetah. If I didn't just lay down $330 cdn for a Bosch rebuilt late model starter. I also ordered up 2 ref sensors from Paragon as mine are looking aged (and I get things like intermittent tach needle jump and over fuelling that turns into under fuelling... so these have been on my bucket list). So, now I'm broke... but am looking forward to having some new parts in the ubber-important department.

Michael: what does VR mean? Would you kindly elaborate on what you were saying regarding that? I have no clue what you are saying, but am VERY interested.

Thanks you guys.

snb13

VR = Variable Resistance

odonnell

Close, it's variable reluctance

Essentially the sensors are magnets with many turns of wire wrapped around them. As the magnetic field changes (due to starter ring teeth moving past) the electrons in the wire move, producing a current (alternating current). The frequency of that signal is how the DME knows how fast the engine spins. It's a cool use for that technology (and many many cars use it), but it's an inherently dirty signal because it's analog and the DME actually has to process it to convert it to a usable digital signal. Because the signal is relatively weak at low speeds, the sensors and wiring needs to be isolated from EM noise. This is why camshaft sensors (which spins 1/2 as fast as crank) are usually not VR, they are hall effect (see: 944S) because they produce a clean digital signal. A VR signal would be very faint at idle speeds.

The reality is that an OEM setup already takes all that into account. However when people modify their wiring or something (or for example notched bellhousing) the signal can be exposed to unwanted EMI. Best bet is to eliminate the EMI, or build shielding provisions if you suspect that signal corruption is at play.

Here's a better explanation of pickup sensors, post #3. Just finished doing all this on my car and as you can tell, I'm biased toward hall effect. Of course if you have a Motronic setup there are no options unfortunately.

Noahs944

Man you're a smarty, Michael

tempest411

I just bought one of these a few months ago. Here's a link:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-High...3153c0&vxp=mtr

Noahs944

Looks good Tempest. I googled & found those online then tracked the company down to CA, USA. Pleased with the product?

ideola

The garage is back up and running, shipped my first orders from IL last week. Webshop will be back up soon. I can process orders via PM and email in the meantime. If you want a Hi-Torque starter, shoot me a PM. They are smaller and more compact than even the S2 Bosch units. I've had no reports of fitment or interference issues from anyone. They are half the weight of the first gen, and 2# lighter than the second gen.

Cheers!

Arominus

You need a new bracket and the shield that goes with it. I had to do it on my S2, as the late starter caused kickbacks while starting. When the starter is not cranking it can not interfere with the signal because its not energized, the magnetic field while energized is what creates the interference. So the lack of shielding really is unlikely to cause the idle issues. Make sure your sensors are gapped correctly.

tempest411

Yes, I'm very satisfied. It does a fine job...of sitting in the box it came in by a bunch of other parts. I haven't tried it yet, but have just added it to an accumulation of parts to one day build a 944.

Cole

FWIW, I've had one of the high torque starters on my 951 since 2007, also has a notched bell housing, and I've never had any issues at all with it.

Worked great for getting the car on/off the trailer once when the fuel lines caught fire.

Lemons racer

Quality Auto power sells IMI starters the 155CCW starter is the one you want. Been using mine for over six months with no issue's . The starter is not cheap its 240.00 .It turns over the 14 to 1 NA motor in my track car with no problems.