azbanks

It is time to get some things done on my 1990 S2 Cab.

DIYPNP 55 pin Microsquirt ECU.
It will be full sequential fuel and ignition.
1000 cc HiZ smartfire injectors
VW/Audi Coil on plug coils
044 fuel pump
3 bar FPR
MAP only, no MAF/AFM
Custom wiring harness
Custom intake

Koni adjustable front coilover kit
Camber plates
Elephant racing castor blocks
Weltmeister front sway bar
Braided steel brake lines

Euro front bumper cover
968 mirrors
Clear rear marker lenses

89 AOR LSD trans with cooler loop
only944 short shifter, shifter arm, and shift lever

New cam chain and tensioner pads
New powder coated cam cover

Eventually, some body work and a complete bare metal respray.


I started the tear down process tonight and found a LOT of old oil buildup in the intake and leading down into the intake ports. I wasn't expecting that. the car does have almost 180,000 miles and I can tell the PO(s) did not take great care of the car.

I have to build the wiring harness and do some initial work for the intake. The intake will be something I can use now for this NA build and something I can use in the future when I do the whole turbo engine rebuild. I want to get the MS system up and running well as an NA system before I convert to the turbo system.

azbanks

UGH, I got the intake off and found lots of what looks like built up oil residue in the intake runners and even down into the intake port area. You can see it in this port which is the worst of the four but they all have a lot in them. The valves are heavily encrusted in gunk as well. The entire Air/Oil separator is covered in dirty old oil. I've got a lot of cleanup to do before I get started moving forward.


Any ideas why It would be blowing that much oil into the intake area? I'm not ready to do the complete engine rebuild yet.

thomasmryan

oil in the intake and excessive consumption threads kinda makes me curious. pelican has how to thread using an oil cap to test the crankcase vacuum on a boxster.....in this diy.

wonder if the aos design is similar to the 24/44 series. is there an internal baffle that can fail?



edit: the late ninetys powerstoke fords would run janky if you used an oil that foamed up...kinda had to stick with motorcraft. rotella would be the next best running wise with the oil pressure fed diesel injectors.

odonnell

Definitely following this thread... your MS build is going to be really cool.

I would check out the AOS seals if they've never been replaced. Although having oil all over the outside of the AOS is really odd...

azbanks

The hose from the AOS to the intake just pulled apart. It was really soft. It had obviously had a lot of oil through it in it's lifetime. The oil buildup around the AOS does make me very curious as to what is going on.


Thomas, Thanks for the link.

thomasmryan

I have two lines on top of the aos. The smaller elbow was rotten on my car, so I assumed an internal diaphragm has failed on the aos to allow oil into this small line. (also assuming the small line controls the larger vacuum line to the intake) The crankcase pressure has to go somewhere, so with the vacuum control not functioning...somewhere would be everywhere))) my car looks similar to yours but maybe lightly less.

Edit; my car is a 92


Boxster internal diaphragm fail thread

Edit; it looks like the older versions need a threshold vacuum to open with the spring and ball check valve but I believe mine (and maybe the S2) is vacuum activated

azbanks

I need to clean all the old oil of my AOS to even see what parts are there and the shape they are in.

azbanks

I just got a screaming deal on a Garrett GT3582R.
It will be heading to Forced Performance for Tial V-band SS turbine housing and an HTA wheel upgrade.

azbanks

Cleaned the old oily gunk out of my intake ports.
Cleaned up the front timing cover for powder coating.
Install the factory lower shift lever bushing and finished installing the only944 shift lever.
Removed the factory coil since I won't be using it with the Megasquirt kit.
A few days ago I installed the SRPracing pedals.
http://www.srpracing.com/misc_images/SCBS1bu.jpg

I have a couple Cherry Electrical GS100502 hall sensors on the way.

http://www.onlinecomponents.com/cher...tml?p=11075144

azbanks

GT3582 deal fell through. MAJOR bummer!

odonnell

Regarding AOR trans swap... isn't the S2 trans already based on the AOR trans? I.e. hardened 1st/2nd, hardened case, etc. The differences being gear ratios.

azbanks

Yes. The AOT(S2) trans has gear ratios that favored the power band of the S2.
The AOR(951) trans has gear ratios that favor the power band of a turbo. Also, the AOT(at least the one I had) did not have a cooler loop. Since I will be building up the engine as a turbo, the AOR fits my needs better. I just wish I could get my hands on a longer Audi fifth gear set. I want a lower cruising RPM.

azbanks

There is a temp sensor that screws into the bottom of the S2 intake. I am trying to figure out where it goes and where it is on the factory wiring diagram. Is it the only IAT sensor on the S2 or is there an IAT sensor in the AFM as well?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

odonnell

On the 2.5 cars, there's an air temp in the AFM. It's one of the pins on the AFM connector...I bet you it's the same on yours.
http://www.the944.com/afm.htm

azbanks

I think you are probably right but what about the second temp sensor that screws into the bottom of the S2 intake.