Replaced my fuel hoses today. Here's what I did.
06-11-2015, 07:08 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Replaced my fuel hoses today. Here's what I did.
Thought this may benefit people in the future.
I bought the kit from Lart comprising of two hoses (FPR and return), the damper, cutting tool and instructions. Lart does provide instructions but they're more geared toward the actual install itself, rather than the bigger picture.
I took some pics as I went, you can see them here:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/c3ojmus8s...l5hBuDQ4a?dl=0
While it's still fresh in my mind, here we go!
1) Loosen wheel nuts and jack the car up
2) Remove the front right wheel and wheel well liner. This video explains how =
3) Once you know you have access, you can proceed with the job. Mount the wheel back on (three nuts will do) and lower the jack
4) Open the hood and remove the DME relay. Turn the car over until it dies to remove some of the fuel in the rail/hoses
5) Disconnect the battery
6) Stuff some paper towel underneath the hoses to catch any fuel; maybe place a tray to catch under the engine
7) Untighten the FPR, damper and return, move the hoses aside
8) Remove and replace the damper first. Tighten by hand then as Lart’s instructions state, give it a ¼ turn with the wrench
9) Next is the FPR. Same with that, make sure all the bolts on the connection are nice and tight
10) Finally the return, this is the one with the jubilee clip
11) Feed the new hoses down into the wheel well
12) Jack the car up again and remove the wheel
13) Remove the upper clip holding all the lines in place and pull the two fuel lines slightly away from the well to get more room around them
14) Use your new hoses – now loose in the well – to determine where to cut the metal lines
15) Place a tray underneath, and have paper towel on standby
16) Cut one line at a time. I did the return first. Not sure if that was the best approach. Cutting the lines is probably the hardest part, I needed to use a pair of locking pliers to tighten the cutting tool enough. As soon as gas starts to leak, you’re good to go. Rotate the tool to cut the entire line
17) Pull out and discard the old hose
18) Insert the metal line as far as it will go into the new hose. Tighten very, very firmly. Don’t forget to tighten the upper, colored part of the connection nearest the hose itself
19) Repeat for the second line and hose
20) Try and rearrange the lines back in the rubber and clip them back together. I couldn’t do this due to the bulk of the new hose connectors. Not the end of the world, but annoying for an OCD guy like me
21) Everything should now be good to go. Remove all your paper towels and trays, go and have a cup of coffee to allow any spilled fuel to evaporate away
22) Replace the DME relay and reconnect the battery
23) Start the car up. Check all your connections for leaks. Leave it running for five minutes. When warm, open up the throttle a bit to ensure all is good under load
24) I had a couple of leaks. Killed the engine ASAP, tightened things up, and repeated the procedure
25) When all is good replace your wheel well liner, replace the wheel, lower jack, torque your nuts
26) Go for a drive around the block to level out your suspension and check again for leaks on your return
It was a bit trying at times with the metal line cutting, but the most difficult part was getting my locking wheel nut off to start it all!
All in all, took me about 3.5 hours taking it nice and easy.
Good luck!
-Andrew
I bought the kit from Lart comprising of two hoses (FPR and return), the damper, cutting tool and instructions. Lart does provide instructions but they're more geared toward the actual install itself, rather than the bigger picture.
I took some pics as I went, you can see them here:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/c3ojmus8s...l5hBuDQ4a?dl=0
While it's still fresh in my mind, here we go!
1) Loosen wheel nuts and jack the car up
2) Remove the front right wheel and wheel well liner. This video explains how =
3) Once you know you have access, you can proceed with the job. Mount the wheel back on (three nuts will do) and lower the jack
4) Open the hood and remove the DME relay. Turn the car over until it dies to remove some of the fuel in the rail/hoses
5) Disconnect the battery
6) Stuff some paper towel underneath the hoses to catch any fuel; maybe place a tray to catch under the engine
7) Untighten the FPR, damper and return, move the hoses aside
8) Remove and replace the damper first. Tighten by hand then as Lart’s instructions state, give it a ¼ turn with the wrench
9) Next is the FPR. Same with that, make sure all the bolts on the connection are nice and tight
10) Finally the return, this is the one with the jubilee clip
11) Feed the new hoses down into the wheel well
12) Jack the car up again and remove the wheel
13) Remove the upper clip holding all the lines in place and pull the two fuel lines slightly away from the well to get more room around them
14) Use your new hoses – now loose in the well – to determine where to cut the metal lines
15) Place a tray underneath, and have paper towel on standby
16) Cut one line at a time. I did the return first. Not sure if that was the best approach. Cutting the lines is probably the hardest part, I needed to use a pair of locking pliers to tighten the cutting tool enough. As soon as gas starts to leak, you’re good to go. Rotate the tool to cut the entire line
17) Pull out and discard the old hose
18) Insert the metal line as far as it will go into the new hose. Tighten very, very firmly. Don’t forget to tighten the upper, colored part of the connection nearest the hose itself
19) Repeat for the second line and hose
20) Try and rearrange the lines back in the rubber and clip them back together. I couldn’t do this due to the bulk of the new hose connectors. Not the end of the world, but annoying for an OCD guy like me
21) Everything should now be good to go. Remove all your paper towels and trays, go and have a cup of coffee to allow any spilled fuel to evaporate away
22) Replace the DME relay and reconnect the battery
23) Start the car up. Check all your connections for leaks. Leave it running for five minutes. When warm, open up the throttle a bit to ensure all is good under load
24) I had a couple of leaks. Killed the engine ASAP, tightened things up, and repeated the procedure
25) When all is good replace your wheel well liner, replace the wheel, lower jack, torque your nuts
26) Go for a drive around the block to level out your suspension and check again for leaks on your return
It was a bit trying at times with the metal line cutting, but the most difficult part was getting my locking wheel nut off to start it all!
All in all, took me about 3.5 hours taking it nice and easy.
Good luck!
-Andrew
06-21-2015, 11:34 AM
#2
Intermediate
I just did this job last week as well on my '86 Turbo. I'm still a bit paranoid about possible leaks but everything seems good so far.
This thread (https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...ake-lines.html) was helpful as I had the same problem the OP in that thread did.
Also, beautiful car. Kalahari is by far my favourite 944 colour. Hope to see it in the GTA sometime.
This thread (https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...ake-lines.html) was helpful as I had the same problem the OP in that thread did.
Also, beautiful car. Kalahari is by far my favourite 944 colour. Hope to see it in the GTA sometime.
06-22-2015, 01:31 AM
#3
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That's an awesome fuel line kit, good job.
06-22-2015, 07:37 AM
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I just did this job last week as well on my '86 Turbo. I'm still a bit paranoid about possible leaks but everything seems good so far.
This thread (https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...ake-lines.html) was helpful as I had the same problem the OP in that thread did.
Also, beautiful car. Kalahari is by far my favourite 944 colour. Hope to see it in the GTA sometime.
This thread (https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...ake-lines.html) was helpful as I had the same problem the OP in that thread did.
Also, beautiful car. Kalahari is by far my favourite 944 colour. Hope to see it in the GTA sometime.
06-22-2015, 07:40 AM
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
It is a great kit! Thank you again!
For anyone looking at new lines - don't even bother shopping around. Just go with Lart. Real quality product, super fast delivery and - as you can see - even a wrenchophobe like me can pull off the install! Got many compliments from my mechanic last week when the car was in for a clutch job.
06-28-2016, 01:05 AM
#6
Rennlist Member
It is a great kit! Thank you again!
For anyone looking at new lines - don't even bother shopping around. Just go with Lart. Real quality product, super fast delivery and - as you can see - even a wrenchophobe like me can pull off the install! Got many compliments from my mechanic last week when the car was in for a clutch job.
06-28-2016, 07:59 AM
#7
Nice write up. I just had new lines made up locally for my S2. They're a breeze to change on the S2, no metal line cutting in the fender wheel needed My old lines appeared to be as good as new after removing the protective sleeves, no cracks anywhere, go figure.
My old lines appeared to be as good as new after removing the protective sleeves, no cracks anywhere, go figure.
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02-27-2019, 12:24 PM
#8
Intermediate
Hey guys, and thanks to @Biscuits704 for the write up, very enlightening!
Many times I've read about horror stories on 944 catching fire because of a failing fuel line, so I decided to order the awesome 3 lines kit from @lart951 and change them later on next summer since I was already on other projects at the moment.
So, after completing 3-4 upgrades on the car, I've decided to shovel the 3 feet high snow bank in front of the garage door to back out the car and have it run for few minutes in order to QA my latest work. Well, guess what, once I've stop the car, there was this smell of gas in the garage. I just can't believe it, the line connecting at the fuel damper had just started to leak! What are the odds! I'm even thinking that I've must been sleep walking and went punching holes in the lines... The timing is just too crazy!
Anyway, long story short, my plan have changed and I will be following your 26 steps along with looking at Luis documentation as soon I can open the garage door to do this job!
Cheers!
Many times I've read about horror stories on 944 catching fire because of a failing fuel line, so I decided to order the awesome 3 lines kit from @lart951 and change them later on next summer since I was already on other projects at the moment.
So, after completing 3-4 upgrades on the car, I've decided to shovel the 3 feet high snow bank in front of the garage door to back out the car and have it run for few minutes in order to QA my latest work. Well, guess what, once I've stop the car, there was this smell of gas in the garage. I just can't believe it, the line connecting at the fuel damper had just started to leak! What are the odds! I'm even thinking that I've must been sleep walking and went punching holes in the lines... The timing is just too crazy!
Anyway, long story short, my plan have changed and I will be following your 26 steps along with looking at Luis documentation as soon I can open the garage door to do this job!
Cheers!
02-27-2019, 03:05 PM
#9
Drifting
Great write up. Curious though: why re-install the wheel in step three then remove it again in step twelve? What am I missing?
PS.. I'm at Lakeshore & Islington
PS.. I'm at Lakeshore & Islington
02-27-2019, 06:56 PM
#10
May I suggest edits to steps 4 and 23?
Step 4 should be to remove the fuel pump fuse with engine running. That will relieve the fuel system of pressure.
Step 23, it is safer to check for fuel system leaks by jumping the dme relay terminals 30 and 87b, causing the fuel pump to run without the engine running.
Step 4 should be to remove the fuel pump fuse with engine running. That will relieve the fuel system of pressure.
Step 23, it is safer to check for fuel system leaks by jumping the dme relay terminals 30 and 87b, causing the fuel pump to run without the engine running.
