odonnell

Spray with brakleen and clean afterward, apply Por-15 to anything showing rust. I would really recommend replacing those upper strut mounts while it's out, no better time. But if it's not in the budget not a big deal.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/1407326...lpid=82&chn=ps

Karl_W944

Stick on weights? What do you mean? I'm also not sure what you're referring to with the last bit with the upper spring perch and lower profile.

Unfortunately I can't afford new strut mounts ATM, these ones will have to do for as long as possible.

Say, can you point me in the right direction for front control arm bushings? I'm still unsure which to get and I'm ordering them tomorrow morning. Do I just need to change the front forward bushings or do I need to do the front rear bushings as well? Are they equally important or is one more important than the other?

Scott at Team Harco

Stick-on wheel weights. Used to balance wheel/tire assemblies. I wouldn't be too worried about chipping paint on the inside of your wheels. If it bothers you, do a good clean up with Scotch Brite pads and then paint with readily available wheel paint from the local parts store (I have had good results with Dupli-color products).

I'm not sure what the profile comment is either with regard to the strut mounts. Those look stock and unless they are worn and sloppy, should do fine.

Wheel bearings are critical. The cost is reasonable from many sources (Pelican, Paragon, even Rock Auto). The hard part will be getting the old races out and the new ones in. There are some special tools that make the job safer and easier. If you have access to a press, it can be really easy. Be sure to grease them propely and then set the free play properly. All is spelled out in the work shop manual or at Clark's garage.

I don't have any direct input on the contol arm bushings. I would check Clark's garage to see if there is an article on that subject. See the above listed suppliers for prices. I would think there have to be many other reasonably priced options before going with Weltmeister.

You'll also need to realign everything after installing the struts, bushings and bearings. The string method, as mentioned, works well for those on a budget. Or for those that do it frequently...

Good luck.

Butters944

Get polygraphite control arm and sway bar bushings, they'll last longer than rubber and they're stiffer. Cheap too. I've never had a squeaking problem over 3 years.

I have these

http://www.paragon-products.com/Bush...lt_pb-1020.htm

and some blue ones for all the others if I remember correctly, I believe they're Ricochet brand. Look on ebay. Can't find direct links right now, sorry.

Karl_W944

I spent the last couple days sanding, and painting the struts. using aluminum foil and vinegar is actually very effective against surface rust. They're now ready for installation, which I'll be doing with a couple friends later this afternoon!

cghjj

CV joints in good condition?

Scott at Team Harco

Will the palstic cups that are sitting on top of your struts go back where they belong? The bump rubbers may be too beat up to hold them. Or they may have gotten knocked off and just need to be pushed back up over the lip.

Pretty fancy work for something that won't be seen unless the wheels are off.

Karl_W944

Yep! They just need to be pushed back up is all.

Sure, no one will see them, but I like to think of it as an "easter egg" of sorts. Now the car will be able to strut her stuff in style!

Karl_W944

Is there a trick to getting the eccentric strut bolt out??

odonnell

Karl, digging the paint job.

Tiger03447

Karl..please tell me how you use vinegar and aluminum foil to clean things..I can understand the vinegar, but what is the aluminum foil used for..a pan to hold it all in? Please educate me..Thanks

SloMo228

It should just pull out. I find it is easier to remove if I pull the eccentric bolt first. Leaving the normal bolt tight helps keep the strut from moving relative to the steering knuckle and pinching the eccentric bolt.

However, if you didn't do that, you can try just tapping the bolt out with a hammer and punch, of course being careful not to damage the threads. IIRC, the bolt itself isn't eccentric, it's the washers that are eccentric. So the bolt just has a straight shank and shouldn't get caught up on anything.

Karl_W944

(old vs new)
Well we've gotten one strut out and replaced. The driver's side strut, we can't get out. The top bolt with the eccentric washer is rounded, and I've got no blow torch or any other method to get it out other than man power with a socket wrench and breaker bar. I could have tried removing the nut on the other side via removing the caliper, but the bolts holding the caliper is seized as well....

Ideas?

Karl_W944

Thanks!

You use the foil like sandpaper. Just soak it in vinegar and brush the surface rust with it. I'm not sure it will always work, it worked here, but I reckon it'll depend on the severity and depth of the rust.

thomasmryan

if the eccentric washer on the nut side spins into the threads, it is stuck.

I took the easy way out and drilled a couple holes to cut the washer and replaced everything. you need to get a solid counter hold on the bolt any time you are turning the nut.

dremel might work also