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otto - check the link in my post above.
the DIY semi-solid trans mount is about an hour's worth of work (interrupted by overnight urethane curing time)
engine mounts are definitely a bigger proposition.
Spencer I've read that article so many times I almost have it memorized. I think there are even variations that allow rebuilding motor mounts using the same compound, but I decided to go with the billet aluminum SuperMounts because I just can't do everything on this car. No intention to impugne the method, I just had to draw the line somewhere...
Alternately you can get a 4 Pc ( most common sizes) triple square set for under $15 its just the bit set 4 pieces with 13mm hex shank Use it with a standard 13 mm socket / ratchet or box end wrench.
Alternately you can get a 4 Pc ( most common sizes) triple square set for under $15 its just the bit set 4 pieces with 13mm hex shank Use it with a standard 13 mm socket / ratchet or box end wrench.
Thanks guys, for the help..I have a set like those pictured..no pblm there..I went ahead and ordered the special bolts from Amazon yesterday..should be here next week...Now do they make an EXTERNAL 12 point socket? I think these special bolts may take one to get them installed...have to look at the pic again in the Amazon catalog...thanks again for the help..
I really recommend the snap-on 12pts for the CV. I've used some Lisle ones and the cheapo chinese ones I could find locally in a pinch. The snap-on has stripped the least, though it still looks a little chewed up after a bunch of uses. Just be sure to clean all the grease and junk out before using them with some brake clean and a q-tip, or whatever works. The smallest amount of dirt can make those suckers strip out easily, especially if they had any form of loctite previously.
I use the locking CV bolts now since I didn't want to have another sheered bolt event. They need the external 12pt socket which I also picked up from snap-on. I don't know about the longevity of these versus the internal 12pts but no complaints yet.
Paid extra because I wanted to get my car out of the shop before this weekend so I could start fixing it up where it matters (SS fuel lines and brake lines). The shop installed a GKN axle with one year warranty (parts and labor, so if I snap it again they fix it at no cost to me, which is nice). For the other axle, I think I'll purchase new CV joints and rebuilt the ruined one, then swap that in. Then I'll probably buy a cheaper one to carry with me (along with the tool kit above) so that I can help myself out and limp home if this happens again.
Still haven't decided on the tranny mount yet, leaning towards the urethane method as it is cost-effective, and I'm not planning on changing the motor mounts now because they basically look and feel new.
There's a few things to do yet to get this car back up to scratch, then I can start worrying about performance.
I have the LR axles which come from The Driveshaft Shop if I recall. I had a boot on one fail and it destroyed itself. But it was covered under warranty. They are hella expensive and probably not at all worth it unless you're making enough HP to pop the stocks. I bought them sort of as an experiment and because I figured I'd someday do an LS swap or find some other way to be over 450HP. I might have changed my mind because I am not sure how to plant that much power on a 951 rear end.
I'd rebuild the OEM axles. It's kind of fun to do. And a spare is a great idea.
I just had a transmission rebuild. I wonder if they did anything to the mount? Addressing the mount something I've always meant to do.
+1 on the deep drive. If you can find long bits they work better, I used 3/8 sockets on mine but they were standard length and the sockets interfere with the boots, I had to push them into the rubber to get them to line up and seat strait and anything that pushes the bit makes it that much harder to work those bolts without stripping them.
I have a new, in the box, pair of EMPI axels for my '89 951 that I would be willing to sell if anyone is looking for replacements or spares. I would prefer to sell them as a pair, PM me if interested. The part number on them is 90-6805-C, these are the Vanagon axels that have been discussed in another thread.
03-26-2015, 05:56 PM
