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I'm probably making a mistake here. Paid an arm and a leg for this "BMW" part, as the Porsche parts person called it. 3.0 Bar Fuel Pressure Regulator. Am I the only one in the internet to try one on a 2.5 NA? My research indicates this to be true. It's a direct swap on the 88 na. I've been running a little lean sometimes. Why didn't I just buy an adjustable one? Because I be dumb.
Something about this component kept speaking to me. "Noah, I am what you want. And I'm a slick sexy black sister ready to perform". I couldn't refuse.
AM I A MAD FOOL OR THE MOST GENIUS PERSON IN THE WORLD?
Okay now heres where it gets interesting. I have an unproven theory. MAYBE THIS WILL HELP OTHERS.
These cars suffer with electrical issues. I have noticed (even though my grounds are clean & I have an oversized battery & good alternator) The electrical problems seem to be affected somewhat by temperature.
In Wilson's case: ROUGH COLD STARTS. Absolutely terrible!!! The WB02 confirms my suspicion of too rich. I KNOW many of you suffer with this!
Now I notice being too lean after driving him hard. Usually when he's quite warmed up.
So. SIMPLE SOLUTION. I think he needs TUNING. That's why I bought the piggyback. I was going to tune the injectors directly through the piggyback emu programming, but of course that didn't work for me. I'M TERRIBLE WITH COMPUTERS. Anyway, until I have a solution. I think. & it requires 2 things:
Oh before I forget: literally could not close Wilsons door in the middle of nowhere, but managed to tap a flathead screwdriver in the the allen head. That almost sucked.
The concept is to adjust the circuit's analog signal voltage through the use of a dimmer switch; for the purpose of tuning injection. And this can be done on the fly, so you can adjust quite safely even while driving.
You would be much better served by properly tuning the car.
Have you contacted FRWilk about your AFRs? He should be able to account for a 3.0bar regulator, and your higher-RPM enleanment.
Joshua, I one day want to purchase your MAF NA kit.
My Wilks product is a lot of bang for the buck. But I need more than a mere chip can offer. Asking him to address some custom stuff makes sense. Hmm.
Regarding the dimmer, I was planning on using it on the coolant sensor circuit. Like an old school mechanical choke.
The problem with using a potentiometer for the coolant (or AIT) is that the change is global... So, if you use it to enrichen the higher rpms, then it will also make the lower rpms richer. (you already mentioned it being too rich at certain points)
Additionally, with enough coolant temp skewing, you could tell the car to not go into closed-loop, and even affect ignition timing.
Additionally, with enough coolant temp skewing, you could tell the car to not go into closed-loop, and even affect ignition timing.
I didn't know that. Lots of stuff to consider. I RESPECT and appreciate your feedback. Thank you!
-If I continue on this path, it doesn't mean I think I'm right & your wrong. There's no competition here. You are light years ahead of me. I consider myself a non-purist retro-grouch with questionable tastes. Many times when I get something in my head I like to see it through. There are some successes & many failures.
He started life in New York. Made it to Canada. I'm the 4th owner. Bought him 2.5 years ago. Bought him with 92000 miles and some body damage & peeling bondo. And a terrible hatch. And a faulty clutch disk. And a timing belt tensioner that was near failure... And bent rims. And...
And it was in replacing the timing belt for the first time... that I got so frustrated with him. I publicly spoke ill of him. Just like Tom Hanks in Survivor. Hence the name.
Despite his faults, he INSPIRED ME. Here I am wondering the foothills trying to get lost or something...
Owning him. Mechanically repairing him. Loving him and proud of him.
But inside was an undeniable urge to simplify him. I bought a Porsche to drive & not to restore.
My complaints on the car: time consuming to repair & lack of power. So after 2 years of resisting the urge I finally had to see what was under the body filler. It it's rusting then I need to fix it.
At the same time, what improvements can I make? Lighten the body. Weld in a half cage. Flatten the bottom of the spare tire well.
You can keep the chrome. I was fine going to a single stage paint & compromise on the gloss. Single stage is quicker for repairs and cheaper. I was intrigued by the idea of Rustoleum.
WORST MISTAKE I EVER MADE. Took part of my life & I aged considerably. I already was having a hell of a time getting him bondo free & paintable. SO much work. Can't sell Wilson now. Do not want to go through that AGAIN!
-Packed the engine with cotton rags.
-Positioned the biggest ziploc under & around the old regulator. Performed the swap.
(my second time around, but boy was I surprised with the amount of fuel that sprayed out.
-Amazingly the prep worked and no fuel got on the engine, but washed it down with a jug o' water to be sure.
-Adjusted the FQS to 0 click (stock)
-Test drove
OMG! I got way more than I bargained for. Major kick in the trousers. All I wanted was less conservative AFR numbers on the top end. But, this really made the camshaft come alive!! My car has never felt so muscular! WOOHOO! Mostly driving at 12.5:1 (ideal for power) up to 6,000rpm... throughout almost the whole range! (I don't push it more than that with these valve springs).
Now, it's not PERFECT. If you hit the throttle heavy, it drops too much fuel in (11:1) briefly then goes to 12.5:1. And idle is rich @12:1.
But very very close to perfect. Will have to test at higher speed and see when the car is fighting the wind resistance, what happens then? I can go to bed tonight knowing the bumpstick & 3.0 Bar regulator were great choices.
03-28-2015, 12:05 AM
