Alex Sol

I have a new turbo coming and will be following clark's garage instructions.

have all the seals and o rings on order and looking forward to the job.

can anyone suggest how long it takes?

i've pulled the distributor cap, wires, fuel injectors, afm, intake, intercooler and many other bits from the top. also have pulled the transaxle, torque tube, bell housing and a exhaust from under neath.

luckily have not yet had to drill out any nuts / bolts...

i will be doing on hoist but cannot leave in the shop indefinitely.

is it normal to replace:

oil supply and returns hoses / connections to the turbo?

water supply and return hoses / connections to the turbo?


i'll do a little write up along the way...

JacRyann

are you replacing the entire engine? Or just the turbo?

Paulyy

Why have you pulled off so many things?

All you need to take off is:
intake
airbox and the rest of the connections, jboot ect.
IC pipes
Exhaust (full)
water lines to the turbo
oil line to the turbo
bolts on the turbo mount that hold the turbo on.

That's it really.

Replace water lines and oil lines.

JacRyann

you don't even have to remove exhaust. Unbolt the downpipe from exhaust. Can unbolt downpipe from block from above with extensions and socket w/universal. Then remove the turbo with downpipe attached.

Last time I replaced turbo, it took about 2-hrs from hood-up to hood-down.I had previously reassembled the car from bits and pieces, so the bolts were easy to remove. Also a good idea to soak with PB Blaster overnight.

Paulyy

That's right, you don't need to remove the exhaust. I removed mine but i was building another one.

Alex Sol

thanks for the tips. i am budgeting about 6 hours to re and re assuming we don't get stuck with broken bolts / snapped bits and pieces.

good tip on soaking the fasteners

i've pulled all those parts off for various other projects...

so i hope the fresh turbo will be a nice improvement...

any special equipment / tools?

i have access to hoist and lots of 3/8" extensions with twists and turns...

Alex Sol

jacryan... just the turbo.. for now...

JacRyann

Ok, that's much simpler. The only parts that need removing are the things immediately connected to the turbo or intake-manifold. Most of the work is done from above the car:

- disconnect plug-wires and dangle towards front
- disconnect fuel-rail, leave hoses & injectors connected, flip over towards cruise-control and tie out of the way
- disconnect upper intercooler-pipe, throttle-cable & idle & brake-booster hoses & vacuum from intake-manifold
- remove intake-manifold
- disconnect turbo oil & water lines
- remove J-boot (can leave AFM & airbox in place)
- remove turbo outlet-hose (can leave intercooler pipe in place)
- disconnect downpipe from exhaust, only operation needed under the car
- disconnect downpipe from block
- unbolt crossover pipe from turbo
- unbolt turbo from mount, I find it's easier to do this from top with ratchet w/swivel head

That's it I think, installation is reverse. Clean up the grooves in the exhaust flanges so the new compression-rings will seat cleanly. Copper/silver-based anti-seize on all the threads. Easier way to re-install turbo-mount bolts is to grind and taper their tips a little. This lets them wiggle the turbo into position from underneath easier.

Assemble with all bolts loose to allow aligning the parts. Then gradually tighten them in multiple-passes. Be sure to bolt the downpipe to the block or else you risk breaking the turbine-bolts/studs and/or turbine-housing as the entire weight of the exhaust will be hanging off the turbo.

If installing aftermarket larger turbo, there's a NAPA turbo water-pump sensor you can get that's shorter than the factory unit to clear the intake-manifold

Alex Sol

jac ryan,

that is fantastic breakdown.

i will tackle this with my buddies this monday with the use of hoist

i`ve gotten down to the turbo but never removed so the last few steps are very helpful and thanks for the advice on the downpipe and supporting he weight so it`s not all on the turbo...

this has been a project i`ve been looking forward to since the spring.

i bought a new j boot and manual boost controller from lindsey at the time even though the turbo was loading up oil in the intake, smoking when hot from the hood and blasting out black puffs of smoke (a la james bond / inspector gadget) out the rear tail pipe on the racetrack everytime we got on boost....

the new one was rebuilt but green turbos in florida...

Techno Duck

https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...pictorial.html

Alex Sol

wow, nice thread. thanks techno duck

Alex Sol

dug into the 951 today

removed

air box
afm
fuel rail
intake

alternator

coolant hoses

some kind of regulator that controls coolant to the turbo - looks like a fuel pressure regulator but is not..

removed the heat shield close to the brake fluid reservoir

removed 3 nuts on downpipe - broke one... crap!

removed two nut/bolts from the hot side turbo and got stuck on two - hard to reach and very stubborn - rust welded

what do you recommend to replace the nut bolt combos? copper / stainless something like a m8?

i didn't do anything with the steering rack... seems to be okay to leave plus i really don't understand which are the 4 bolts on the steering rack to loosen?

anyone have pics?

some of the pretty detailed turbo remove threads say it's not necessary to remove or loosen the steering rack - u joint areas

plan - use some heat and elbow grease maybe a grinder...

Alex Sol

jac ryann, you gotta be a whiz to re and re a turbo in 2 hours.

being a novice and seeing lots of rusty bolts, i figured it'd take 6-8 hours...

it's taken 4 days so far...

a day to remove the fuel, intake, alternator, steering u joint, engine mount bolts(which i though was an oil return but should have known better)

really got stuck on some of the nuts/bolts on the turbo

stripped the short hex bolt under the turbo - may have been stripped already and used... you guessed it - a torx and a medium sized hammer to ram it into the stripped hex head.... and luckily got it out...

couldn't find the m8 bolt that holds the downpipe but could feel it stuck and thought it was the turbo stuck against a small 10mm bolt head... that took a few hours of prying and head scratching...

found the bolt and found it very difficult to remove and finally got the turbo out with the downpipe attached

swapped out and took another day or so to re install the turbo, steering u joint (tried using the pry bar and hammer again) then realized it's much easier to back of the four bolts that hold the steering rack to the chassis - got the inch i needed then reassembled...

struggled to get the heat shields in

struggled very hard to get the bracket that's held in place by the same m8 bolt that holds the downpipe

had a hard time getting the oil dip stick the right shape... somehow got a little bent and wouldn't sit in the hole properly... is there an o ring down there?

removed some unnecessary air hoses and the turbo boost controller as i have the manual boost controller from Lindsey - would consider running this into the cabin

so ran out of time again and should have the 951 all buttoned up.

fresh oil change
bleed the coolant system with fresh coolant - any tips on how to do this?

typically, start car, top up coolant, turn on heater and keep topping up?

any other suggestions?

start up and go for run

next planned project - a/c delete

raleighBahn

On the end of the dipstick tube there is a plastic spacer + o-ring that should be refreshed. As for coolant, making sure heat is turned to on, open the bleeder vent and pack towels under it. Fill coolant until it starts running out the vent. You will probably just need to bleed once later - usually this works perfectly.

Next time you have this much disassembled, do the AOS seals on the block - an extra 3 minutes of work. Also a good time to clean the grounds on the back of the block, replace hard to reach rubber hoses (like aux turbo water pump), and etc.

Take care and HNY

Alex Sol

Raleigh bahn,

crap. i wish i knww about the air oil separator - seals / gaskets. i would have replaced em...

knowing all the steps and tricks to removing the turbo now, i'll do this in the near future. maybe try the lindsey breather kit also to take some of the pressure off..

love that shop and all the aftermarket goodies....

back in the shop Monday to get er... Herbie... going again...

HNY all!!