DSMblue

This *&%! project sucks! Master and slave cylinders are installed, but have attached motive pressure bleeder, and clutch just goes to floor, nothing to speak of coming through the bleed valve on the slave.

Van

Nothing at all? That's pretty unusual... Did you try pumping the clutch pedal? Does the line have some kind of blockage in it? Was a plug left in one of the holes for the line?

DSMblue

pedal is right to the floor. I did get some initial flow, nothing after. I was wondering if closing the bleed valve, pulling pedal back up, and then reopening bleed valve and pushing pedal down again would be helpful (repeated as many times as needed to evacuate system of air)?

Van

If the pedal is in the down position, I don't think fluid will flow from the reservoir through the master cylinder. Pull that pedal up!

Daytona944

Try opening the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder at the bell housing and cracking the feed connection at the master cylinder at the firewall. When it starts flowing at the master, tighten it up then it should flow at the slave. Like Van said pull the pedal up . I brought home a 944 this past weekend and thought I had a bad cylinder because the pedal would drop really low and the fluid was very low. After filling and bleeding it as I described, I found there was enough pedal for it to engage the clutch and shift into gear without grinding. You may just have a low pedal but should see fluid flowing.

DSMblue

Had a friend (former factory-approved technician) come by last night, and we were able to get system bled. Involved old-style pump clutch, open/close bleeder valve at slave (multiple times), and finally got pedal back to where it was before the new cylinders were installed. As I think about it, the fact that I did not close the bleed valve was probably the source of the problem. When we pulled clutch back up, without closing the bleed valve, it would suck air back into the line?

Either way, problem is solved, and car is happy and back on the road. Now for taking out the dash and console to get carpet out and cleaned......

Intruder196

Yep. Every car I have ever had to bleed brakes on this is how it worked.

william_b_noble

for the future, you will be well served by a pressure bleeder - they cost about $30. and if you change fluid per the owner's manual these cylinders last a very long time.

FRporscheman

He did mention he has a Motive pressure bleeder.

The bleed valve on the cylinder should only be open when
1) someone is in the process of pushing the pedal down, and/or
2) there is a power bleeder attached and pressurized.

william_b_noble

if you have a pressure bleeder, pump it up to about 5 pounds and just open the bleed fitting and let it run until the bubbles stop.

ksui951

I had the Wife tie a rope on clutch pedal and pump it 50 time's
She never wanted to help me again

FRporscheman

^ There never was a better sales pitch to buy a pressure bleeder.

Last Lemming

Also - as I have learned recently - you should have the rear of the car higher than the front. I think it has something to do with the tees ok being partitioned off.

william_b_noble

if you use a pressure bleeder, the rear higher than front doesn't matter, but if you don't it can help get the bubble in the slave to exit the bleed fitting.

ksui951

Would you have a web site that show's how to get to the Turbo and the 2 O-rings under it
as far as the clutch master and slave ... I've learned to slightly loosen the master feed line
and pump clutch slowly .. making sure fluid is full .. then go to slave & slightly loosen slave feed
then do the bleed thing