No start when warm/hot
01-27-2014, 10:54 PM
#1
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No start when warm/hot
So I know there have been several no-start-while-hot threads; and yes, I've read them. But I am still convinced my situation is a little different. Basically I have two scenarios:
Cold start: -starts up fine, idles smooth, reading ~13 Volts on dash.
Warm/Hot start (>60˚C): no start, reading ~10.5 to 11 Volts on dash, It will start with jumper cables but idle will sometimes oscillate and will even drop to where it kills the engine. This requires my foot on the throttle for about 5 to 10 seconds to steady out. Once it's running, dash indicates ~12.5V.
Other info: Battery is from 2011. Autozone did their battery diagnostic and said it was performing fine. The previous owner did some wire splicing on the harness from the reference/speed sensors to the ECU, yikes. Haven't touched it.
Anyone have an idea where I should be focusing my efforts? I plan on checking my speed and reference sensors as laid out in Clark's Garage tomorrow.
Cold start: -starts up fine, idles smooth, reading ~13 Volts on dash.
Warm/Hot start (>60˚C): no start, reading ~10.5 to 11 Volts on dash, It will start with jumper cables but idle will sometimes oscillate and will even drop to where it kills the engine. This requires my foot on the throttle for about 5 to 10 seconds to steady out. Once it's running, dash indicates ~12.5V.
Other info: Battery is from 2011. Autozone did their battery diagnostic and said it was performing fine. The previous owner did some wire splicing on the harness from the reference/speed sensors to the ECU, yikes. Haven't touched it.
Anyone have an idea where I should be focusing my efforts? I plan on checking my speed and reference sensors as laid out in Clark's Garage tomorrow.
01-27-2014, 11:09 PM
#2
Hey Man
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Rennlist Member
So I know there have been several no-start-while-hot threads; and yes, I've read them. But I am still convinced my situation is a little different. Basically I have two scenarios:
Cold start: -starts up fine, idles smooth, reading ~13 Volts on dash.
Warm/Hot start (>60˚C): no start, reading ~10.5 to 11 Volts on dash, It will start with jumper cables but idle will sometimes oscillate and will even drop to where it kills the engine. This requires my foot on the throttle for about 5 to 10 seconds to steady out. Once it's running, dash indicates ~12.5V.
Other info: Battery is from 2011. Autozone did their battery diagnostic and said it was performing fine. The previous owner did some wire splicing on the harness from the reference/speed sensors to the ECU, yikes. Haven't touched it.
Anyone have an idea where I should be focusing my efforts? I plan on checking my speed and reference sensors as laid out in Clark's Garage tomorrow.
Cold start: -starts up fine, idles smooth, reading ~13 Volts on dash.
Warm/Hot start (>60˚C): no start, reading ~10.5 to 11 Volts on dash, It will start with jumper cables but idle will sometimes oscillate and will even drop to where it kills the engine. This requires my foot on the throttle for about 5 to 10 seconds to steady out. Once it's running, dash indicates ~12.5V.
Other info: Battery is from 2011. Autozone did their battery diagnostic and said it was performing fine. The previous owner did some wire splicing on the harness from the reference/speed sensors to the ECU, yikes. Haven't touched it.
Anyone have an idea where I should be focusing my efforts? I plan on checking my speed and reference sensors as laid out in Clark's Garage tomorrow.
It never hurts to clean your grounds again though and the factory alarms are evil on these cars.
01-27-2014, 11:32 PM
#3
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The engine does crank but it is slow and sounds pathetic. There are a few occasions where it wont even crank but I haven't encountered that for a while. With with jumper cables, its a much faster crank and starts abruptly. I actually did clean the battery terminals and the grounds that were easily accessible, but I definitely missed several locations.
01-28-2014, 12:29 AM
#4
I can't tell if you have a turbo or an S2. I have a 1990 S2, and experienced an issue similar to yours. Cold starts are always perfect, but warm starts would sometimes results in an erratic or low idle. It might not even start on the first try.
The solution was simple. After digging through the Rennlist threads, I found someone who mentioned the electrical connector that plugs into the S2's AFM sometimes needs to be disconnected, cleaned and re-connected. This might not be your problem, but it's a no cost solution that fixed my issue. If you have an S2, give it a try.
The solution was simple. After digging through the Rennlist threads, I found someone who mentioned the electrical connector that plugs into the S2's AFM sometimes needs to be disconnected, cleaned and re-connected. This might not be your problem, but it's a no cost solution that fixed my issue. If you have an S2, give it a try.