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I would try that but it looks like the wrong hose. It should not even come close to touching the alternator, by what I can tell from online pictures. I am going to go ahead and replace it.
I removed the timing belt covers, and noticed the water pump is still the old version. Which is surprising to me, and increases the probability the water pump has never been replaced. I am going to go ahead and do the upgrade water pump, as well as replace all the timing and balance belt hardware and belts.
I also noticed a sheared screw laying inside the crank pulley. housing Just laying there. Looks like something else I'll need to replace...
from the photo, it looks like you are missing the bracket that goes from the front of the car to the front of the air cleaner - someone has probably put one of those stupid K&N things on the car (bad idea). The bracket has a welded piece of metal on it that the hose clamp on the larger radiator hose should screw to, this keeps that hose away from the alternator belt. I don't know what else is missing, but I would try and find an original air filter housing for the car, along with that steel bracket.
I am getting a head this weekend, in the next week I plan on getting the head, cam tower, water pump, rollers and belts, and front seals installed. I will also be updated the fuel lines. I think I have all of the coolant hoses I need, the only major thing I don't have is vacuum lines. All of them were in bad shape, the plastic ones cracked and the rubber ones disintegrated when I was tearing the engine down.
What is the cheapest option for updated all the vacuum lines? I took out all the AC components, but I'd still like to have the heater hooked up. I have read about deleting the venturi line (correct vocab?), but not sure if that effects things. I could use a little direction in this area, thanks in advance for the help!
Lots of guys use silicone hoses, me included, but honestly factory rubber vac hoses lasted 30 years, I would just go to an auto parts store and get like 20' of rubber vac line along with new vacuum tee's. Its cheap and boy does it make the car run better. just replace everything you can get to.
Making some progress, although much slower than I had hoped. I was looking at my teardown pictures tonight and realized I was not nearly detailed enough on the vacuum lines.
I got the car back together and it is running way better than before! The new motor mounts have worked wonders. I am having a few problems though.
The major issue right now is a hunting idle. But it only happens when the car is up to normal operating temperature. For the first start of the day, the car starts right up and runs smooth as can be, with an idle of around 1100 rpm. After about 10 minutes, it starts hunting, or surging.
I can take it for a drive, and everything with the cooling system seems fine, stays right around the middle bar unless I get stuck in traffic for more than a few minutes, then it will travel up to the next bar but the fan kicks in and that is as high as it goes. Of course when I am off the gas with the clutch in it starts hunting.
I can stop somewhere, turn it off, and the fan will stay on for a couple of minutes, and then goes off. If I start it up, it runs fine again, until it warms back up to around the middle bar, then it starts hunting again.
Any ideas on where I should be looking to resolve this hunting issue?
I also have some pretty severe fuel smell in the cabin when the windows are down. I am guessing this is related to my charcoal canister line and probably cracked hoses / seals on the fuel tank. But I thought I would bring this up in case it might be related to the idle issue.
Any idea what ended up being the actual cause of the rough idle? You symptoms sounded similar to mine. I have a rough, low idle for the first few minutes after startup, but then it settles in around 1100 and is much smoother. As soon as I start it, if I rev it a bit, the roughness goes all the way up to around 2000 but that number quickly falls and it settles down.
Well, before I rebuilt the top end and replaced a lot of stuff, it was in really bad shape. I would say my rough idle issues were caused by major vacuum leaks, all the big vacuum hoses were cracked and brittle. Also, my altitude correction box had the lines cut to it, and I am guessing my oxygen sensor is bad, so that probably contributed also. And then the bad motor mounts just amplified the rough idle.
Still trying to chase down the surge, but it sure runs nice and smooth while it's warming up.
New problem, yesterday I hit the windshield washer pump switch on the center console, and the low brake pad warning light went off (PO did not put pads with warning wire). Weird I thought. Then, next time I flipped on the turn signal, they don't blink anymore! And then this morning when I got in and put the key in the ignition there is no longer the chime. What in the heck! Any ideas?
New problem, yesterday I hit the windshield washer pump switch on the center console, and the low brake pad warning light went off (PO did not put pads with warning wire). Weird I thought. Then, next time I flipped on the turn signal, they don't blink anymore! And then this morning when I got in and put the key in the ignition there is no longer the chime. What in the heck! Any ideas?
02-07-2014, 04:48 PM
