Installing a 944 pan gasket
11-17-2013, 11:33 AM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Installing a 944 pan gasket
I've read the many and sometimes complicated ways people install 944 pan gaskets to avoid leaks and gaskets pushing out from the pan rail. I'm aware there's even an aftermarket bracket arrangement to hold the gasket in place! I'm also aware of how the factory does it with sealant in each corner. Nonetheless, in the spirit of this knowledge sharing forum, I'll offer my method which I've used for many years and on many engines.
The factory manual specifies three tightening cycles in a circular pattern from center to corners. Use this sequence and pattern. The (rubber) gasket wants to squirm around as it's tightened and if it's not allowed to do so, it won't fill corner voids and won't be happy along the long side rails (it'll push out). How do you let it squirm? OIL! Lightly coat the entire gasket with oil (just use your hands) before you install it. There's NO NEED for sealant in the corners with this method - but do clean out the old sealant. I 'sharpie' the tightening sequence right on the pan so I don't lose my place. Once the three tightening steps are completed, just run over each bolt again in any sequence to confirm none were missed and all are tight. No need to go back later, either.
That's it - no muss, no fuss, no leaks. OK, before people start telling me their method is better, show me it's quicker, show me no leaks, and show me you've put more pans on 944's than I have. I'm sharing what I've learned, not suggesting anyone else is wrong!
Other comments: I hate leaks, but I also run vacuum in the crankcase (via dry sump) of some of my race engines. A good pan seal is necessary to allow and maintain the vacuum so I always want a good pan gasket seal. Can a pan gasket be reused? YES, if the rubber isn't too hard and it's in good shape. They're expensive to replace and often not necessary.
The factory manual specifies three tightening cycles in a circular pattern from center to corners. Use this sequence and pattern. The (rubber) gasket wants to squirm around as it's tightened and if it's not allowed to do so, it won't fill corner voids and won't be happy along the long side rails (it'll push out). How do you let it squirm? OIL! Lightly coat the entire gasket with oil (just use your hands) before you install it. There's NO NEED for sealant in the corners with this method - but do clean out the old sealant. I 'sharpie' the tightening sequence right on the pan so I don't lose my place. Once the three tightening steps are completed, just run over each bolt again in any sequence to confirm none were missed and all are tight. No need to go back later, either.
That's it - no muss, no fuss, no leaks. OK, before people start telling me their method is better, show me it's quicker, show me no leaks, and show me you've put more pans on 944's than I have. I'm sharing what I've learned, not suggesting anyone else is wrong!
Other comments: I hate leaks, but I also run vacuum in the crankcase (via dry sump) of some of my race engines. A good pan seal is necessary to allow and maintain the vacuum so I always want a good pan gasket seal. Can a pan gasket be reused? YES, if the rubber isn't too hard and it's in good shape. They're expensive to replace and often not necessary.
11-18-2013, 01:39 PM
#3
Advanced
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: a mile high in the sky
Posts: 98
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
awesome! I wonder why I never thought to do this seeing as how you do the same with any oil filter gasket you use when you put on the oil filter.
Beer thirty!
Beer thirty!
