SalzundPfeffer

I've been trying to troubleshoot an intermittent no crank problem. It's to the point now where I can't rely on the car to start so it's been sitting until I get it sorted out. Here is a description of the problem.

- When I turn the key to start the car all I can here is a click down by the starter and a humming which I believe is the fuel pump. I think the clicking is the servo on the starter but the starter doesn't crank.
-If I cycle the key back and forth eventually the starter will turn and the car starts and runs normally.

Here is what I have done so far to troubleshoot.
1. Replaced battery.
2. Cleaned battery ground.
3. Cleaned both grounds on the back of the engine, near the reference and speed sensors.
4. Cleaned positive contacts at the battery.
5. Just installed a new ignition switch tonight and it's still not cranking on a consistent basis.

I just replaced the starter not more than a month ago since the old one was starting to do the same thing, albeit not as frequently. I warranty replaced it with Autozone while I was down in that area replacing my clutch hydraulics. I'm starting to think it might be the new starter, but it seems strange this would be the case unless the Autzone rebuilds are junk. I did get a month or so of trouble free operation. By the way, this most recent rebuilt starter from Autozone has a smaller diameter body and has a distinctly different sound while cranking.

Anyone have any pointers? My next move might be to run a dedicated ground from the starter back to the battery ground.

motorjunkie

try tapping on the starter with a hammer when it fails to start. If it starts immed after, it is a bad starter.

Grandpa#3

I'm for the rebuilt starter being bad. You can remove it and take it back an AutoZone dealer and they will check it. I have had numerous starters, alternators and batteries not lasting from a month to 2 months. Rebuilt electrical items are a crap game, but the new parts are out of my price range.

Cheers,
Larry

John_AZ

Just info.

Starter physical size. Large or small body:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...-question.html

Rebuilt or Remanufactured??
Rebuilt starters are cleaned and parts replaced only if bad or under spec.
Remanufactured starters have all major parts replaced.

The best is the High Torque starter:
http://garage.ideola.com/prod-ElectricsUpgrades.html

Battery cable-do you see corrosion near the battery? Replace the cable with a thicker cable and not the thin WalMart/KMart battery cables.

You replaced the battery, but is it fully charged? Did you check with a hydrometer and load test?

Battery connections. Do you see green crud or corrosion on the ends? Replace with Military cable ends-NAPA

Starter troubleshooting:
http://www.aa1car.com/library/1999/cm119948.htm
OR
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...arter_diag.htm

Usually it will be a combination of problems.

GL
J_AZ

curtisr

I had a similar issue and all though I can't explain why, it took a couple of starter relay changes to sort it.

william_b_noble

on an old starter, the intermittent effect is due to worn brushes. on a new one, the brushes could be sticking.

odurandina

unfortunately, this is Situation Normal, All F_cked Up for the Porsche 944.

a lot of people have abandoned these cars when endless mystery no-starts aren't solved.

NM'87 951

been having starting issues myself, and while I'm sure the more knowledgeable people on here are right with their diagnosis, I will still offer the advice to check your relays and DME connections because it was given to me. Didn't fix my problem, but they certainly needed cleaning and replacing... may be it can help you.

Was free to do... but then I had an extra relay for what I needed to replace, so parts cost me nothing. Just some cleaner and a toothbrush pretty much.

TurnerJ

Having the same problems as well. Will start perfectly some days and other days I just get one relatively loud click and to turning over. I've got a new starter solenoid on the way.

william_b_noble

I would be happy to buy ANY car whose only symptom is intermittent no-crank - there are very few parts that can contribute to this. Personally on the half dozen or so 944s that I have regular encounters with, I've never seen it. A friend did have a car that kept the starter running and caused some trouble, but I haven't seen an intermittent non start except for the following two conditions which were immediately obvious:

1. starter motor broken in half after driving over a curb (how the car managed to crank at all is a miracle, owner denied everything at first but it was pretty obvious what had happened)

2. brushes worn out.

I've seen the nylon gear carrier fail - that can be repaired successfully with the DEVCON epoxy that is specially designed for plastic, and the $10 epoxy kit will save you $$ on a starter if it is otherwise OK.

SalzundPfeffer

Thanks for all the good tips. I went ahead and got another starter on order from autozone. That's an easy swap to rule that out. A new dme relay would probably be my next move since I think the car has its original and I don't have a backup.

odurandina

connecting the lower cut section of the 997 nose to the upper section of my 968 front end,

and sealing the hybrid 993/968 fenders soaked up $500 of Devcon (2 - 2 liter boxes).

the stuff is frigging awesome !!

.

SalzundPfeffer

I swapped the 2 month old Autozone starter with a warranty replacement and that appears to have done the trick. The starter says it is remanufactured rather than rebuilt. I hope this one lasts a little longer.

Ever since I have owned the car I have wrapped the starter loosely with a thermal shield. But I'm wondering if that was causing water to pool and soaking the starter. I'm going to run without it. Plus, this is the smaller body "chrysler" type starter so there is more clearance with the exhaust and will hopefully stay cooler.

Thanks for the replies. Can't wait to drive her again.

John_AZ

Some of the small body, hi torque starters created an electromagnetic field and caused interference with the reference sensors.
Porsche installed a "sleeve" on the reference sensor to shield the sensor.

Symptoms are longer cranking and an occasional "jerking" shudder during cranking.

If you did a clutch replacement and cut out the bell housing reference sensor holes as often mentioned, this will also cause the same symptoms. The OEM bell housing (not later cut out) was designed to shieid the sensors from the starter electomagnetic field.

Just FYI
J_AZ

ibkevin

^ Thats good to know John, thanks!

Do you happen to know the p/n of the sleeve, I'll look it up on PET.