lovemyp-car

Very nice system...I recently did the system in the Porvette with a mix of Alpine and Polk Audio stuff. I actually found a closed, unused grommet out of the battery area that was only slightly larger than the power cable I ran for the amp, so I popped a little hole in it and ran the wire through and that was that! I also ran the heavy gauge power cable under the carpet near the door sill on the passenger side

I went a little less hidden with my setup though



I also put two 10" Polk Audio subs in the spare tire well...Yes they both fit! I don't have any pics of that though

Look forward to seeing your progress with the system!
Ethan

Paul Waterloo

I'm back to the job again, ran a lot of wiring yesterday. I am having difficultly figuring out the antenna amplifier. Hopefully somebody will be able to help. It's a 1993 968.

I have these last two connectors on the white connector, it appears the red and black should be attached to the amp turn on power supply on the head unit to power the antenna, but I am unsure. There is no voltage in any condition on either red/black wire, and it has a very high resistance to ground, about 5 meg ohms. I'm thinking it could be the amplifier, but nothing was previously attached to it:



I do not know what the brown/blue is for....but it is strange, have 4 VDC at this connector on the wire, if the ignition is on or off.

Here is the wiring diagram:



Then the following red/black and brown/blue are found just hooked up to nothing in the radio area, the brown/blue has 4 VDC on it regardless of ignition switch position. Weird.

Does anybody know what these are for?



EDIT: I figured out the red/black are the same wires, the brown/blue both have 4 VDC on them, and they are the same circuit.

And here is what I thought was the antenna booster wire, it is fused to the antenna wire, I added the blue wire for the amplifier remote switch.

Is this the antenna booster? If not, I don't know what it might be, unless it's a ground/shield that gets attached to ground.....but that just doesn't seem right.



Thanks for any help! Hope to get the radio wired up today, still waiting for the Bluetooth kit and GPS antenna, so I will have to go back in there once more, it will probably be another week or more until I get those parts.

FYI, my car came with the 6 speaker system....will check the 10 speaker system wiring diagrams.....

Paul Waterloo

Made some progress today....guess if I was to look at where I was yesterday, made a lot of progress....but this is most likely going to take me a total of 25-40 hours to complete. I'm slow, like to do it right, and it's been a long time since I've installed a stereo in a car....and never a 968 or a Porsche.

As far as the question in the post above, I'm sure the red/black is the antenna amplifier, going to hook it up to switched 12 VDC with a spade connector, I can always disconnect it.

I managed to figure out the wiring of my routing to the amplifier. I did use the standard AWG 4 wire that comes with an amp kit, I went to Home Depot and bought high quality AWG 4 wire rated for 600 VAC, the insulation jacket is very, very hard to cut. It is gas an oil resistant. It's just better IMO.

Here is the car on ramps (I jack the car up and slide the ramps in backwards then I lower and remove the jack) because I was considering running the AWG 4 power wire to the amp under the car, but decided against it. I have not taken the car off the ramps since then, but the place has gotten messy! Time to clean.



I started by figuring I would run it at the bottom of the carpet channel.....OMG it's a bitch to separate the carpet.....but ran it from back to front:





I drilled a hole through the firewall above the glove box (which is removed). Put a grommet in it, then feed the wire. Put some wire ties on it.







How to hook it up to the battery? Need to put the fuse very close to the connection, if there is a ground, you want it protected.

Used a lug to go under the existing two wires closest to the firewall. Could get the nut back on it.....then to the fuse, then to the wire run from the back of the car. Note the bend radius of the wire to get it lined up. Minimal stress on the wire and connection. It's the black wire on the bottom of the three with the large AWG 4 lug on it.



On the following picture the power wire comes off the battery basically parallel to the firewall, the incoming from the passenger compartment is 90 degrees and below it. It is feeding the fuse holder.



Here are the final routing. Note fuse is removed until stereo is ready for testing after all wiring is complete. I normally have the negative removed during this install. Good practice.









Still need to route it from the base of the back seat to its final position at the amp.

Paul Waterloo

I ran the 9 conductor cable and three sets of speaker wires from the back of the car to (1) in the rear speaker location, (2) new cables to the door and have yet to finalize the 9 conductor cable, but it will connect to the radio harness.

I made up the 9 conductor and 2 door speaker wires, put tape on certain sections, the ones that will be exposed most. I ran them in the rocker on the passenger side, so on the other side of the rocker steel from the AWG 4 power wire. I think that will shield it from potential interference.....god I hope so!

You need a snake to run these wires, but I was happy with everything when I was done!





















Hooked them to the tweeters and new 5.25" door speakers.

Paul Waterloo

I hooked the lighting circuit to the radio harness. Used the digital temperature read out voltage circuit to do this. It's the grey and green wire on the harness, used an insulation displacement connector and then taped it up with hockey tape.

Paul Waterloo

I did the "rear speaker enclosure" mod as denoted on 968forums.com.

It is excellent, easy, simple and can be found here.

RUN ALL OF YOU WIRING FIRST!

Put dynamat (or as I call it dynamite!!!) against the sheet metal, install the metal tube, then use foam and fill it....in the end, I put too much in and am taking it out now. Be careful not to overfill, the stuff has a lot of force behind it.

Paul Waterloo

Run around, find a new garage for your 1973 Alfa Romeo and move it...go to Fry's for new speakers, one Home Depot run......take some pictures of your ride and how messy your garage is!







I think I did a few more things....but that's enough for today!!!

Arominus

Paul, please note that the way you have your polks installed in the front speaker cubby under the armrest is likely to result in cut surrounds on your 5 1/4" speaker. The speaker is spaced out from the face and when the speaker is running close to maximum excursion the black metal grill that covers it will cut them. Please mod the covers accordingly to prevent this. The focal speakers that were in my 10 speaker door panels had this happen to them! they still work however it ruined any resale value they have and may still lead to the speakers failure in the future.

Arominus

Here we go, a picture of the damage.


This edge is the responsible party. Roll it back or trim it to prevent damage!

Paul Waterloo

Thanks for the info.....I did push the metal edge back.....agreed it's not the best fit in the world, but I think it will work.

Why not take the door panel off one more time?

;-)

Paul Waterloo

Got the iPod/aux input/Bluetooth adaptor today. Ordered it from ebay about 10 days ago from a guy in China.

There is no wiring required, it's made for a Becker Radio, just plug it in to where the CD changer goes. Need to run the mic, and the little extra button is how you hang up and answer a call (also the same button on the Bluetooth module).

Going to be very nice, I will never have another car without Bluetooth, and there is NO WAY you can safely talk on the phone in a 968 6 speed without one.

Arominus

I cheated, I just bought a pioneer 80PRS, full ipod functionality, Bluetooth and a nifty auto-eq feature that sweeps the car and sets the EQ to the optimal curve for each speaker. I get all the modern goodies and way less wiring.

Paul Waterloo

What's the fun in that?

Paul Waterloo

I am working my way through this....hooked up the GALA (speed) wire yesterday to the instrument cluster, and finally got the unit to fit into the console completely....it didn't need to be forced, but finally it just pushed all the way in....really don't know what was stopping it.

Then I was trying to figure how to get the nav working....it has been in for a few weeks, but could never get it working. Finally found a document online to perform initial calibration and set up....I have to say it's not easy. But I got it done today.

It's super cool, love the old school navigation, this is how so many are in Europe....it works great and has all the streets in my town even though the disc is 10+ years old.....one CD for more than half the country, the other overlaps the first.

Anyway....you have to hook up the GALA wire for this thing to work, then calibrate the speed signal to the GPS signal. So it doesn't always need a GPS signal, it uses it for calibration and small corrections.

Here are a few shots....with both the headlights on/off, it goes reverse text with the headlight on.....

Headlights off:



Headlights on:



Radio on, it always has a compass on, it's very cool:



Here is the nav active.....I'm on Harvard street, getting ready for a turn on Dunlop Ave:



And it looks so good in the car:



Right now I still have to get the amp mounted in the spare tire area.....but it's all working and sounds great.

Also have Bluetooth phone that comes over the car speakers, plus I can stream Pandora, plug in my iPod (and it charges it) and have an aux input.....you can see the cables in the last picture, the blue and black one.

Chris12

Great thread! I'll reference this in the future