zerokreap

So, what is the belt that runs the alternator and AC? Is that the "poly-rib" belt? Anyway, as you can see in the pic, that belt seems to be fraying on me.

I have not gotten a chance to really get down in the engine bay yet (that will be this weekend), but I am guessing that it is rubbing against something.

So my question is: How do I go about changing this belt out? Is it as complex as the timing belt? Any special considerations?


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mytrplseven

The belt is fraying for any number of reasons. It's old, It's overtightened, one of the mounting bolts for the alternator or air conditioner has broken or fell out causing a mis-alignment of the respective pulley. To replace it, which I recommend at this point, you have to remove the belly pan, loosen the pivot bolts for the air conditioning compressor and then loosen the lock bolts on the turnbuckle (tensioner) and then turn the turnbuckle to loosen the compressor. While you're in there, check for missing or loose pivot bolts and mounting bolts and also a loose pulley on the alternator before replacing the belt. When you retension the belt you can use a "recommended" tool or as I usually do, tighten the belt until you can barely push it to deflect it 1/4". Then lock down all the bolts, especially the ones on the tensioner turnbuckle. Replace the belly pan only after you've checked that when you turn the a/c on, it doesn't make any unusual noises. Have fun.

zerokreap

Thanks seven, that is all good to know. I just purchased the car about three months ago. The PPI mechanic said everthing was great under the hood...even all of the bolts and covers were in place (which he said indicated the car was well maintained). It only has 48k miles on it, with the belts and seals replaced about 2 years and 15k miles ago.

I did notice some squealing in the belt about a month ago shortly after start-up (and turning on the AC). So perhaps it is too tight, as you suggest. I do not have a P9201, but was thinking about picking up one of these, which is much cheaper:
http://arnnworx.com/new_tensioning_tool.htm

mytrplseven

If it's squealing, it's too loose or defective. Not too tight. When it was squealing, were you starting it with the A/C on? If so, try it with the A/C off and then if it's not squealing, turn the A/C on right away to "load" the belt and see if it starts squealing. The fraying situation is bothersome since it's a relatively young belt.

zerokreap

As a general rule, I start the car without the AC on...the one time there was a squeal though I did start it with the ac on. I am working on it now. It doesn't look like any bolts are missing. Perhaps this belt was not replaced, or it's just kind of crappy. I'll post some pics this evening...hopefully I will be done.

zerokreap

As a general rule, I start the car without the AC on...the one time there was a squeal though I did start it with the ac on. I am working on it now. It doesn't look like any bolts are missing. Perhaps this belt was not replaced, or it's just kind of crappy. I'll post some pics this evening...hopefully I will be done.

zerokreap

Okay, I am in there now...probably over my head a bit. The turnbuckles are easy enough to find. I need to remove the v-belt on the power steering pump before I can take off the belt running the alternator and AC. Now, where are the pivot bolts? Are those the bolts are the top of each part (compressor and power steering pump)?

mytrplseven

Yeah, if you just feel around you know that there's usually one on the top and one on the bottom. In this case, the one on the bottom is handled by the tensioner rod. If you're uncertain about one that's in the area and you loosen it a 1/2 turn, it won't hurt anything if it's from something else as long as you remember to re-tighten it when you've finished re-tensioning everything. When in doubt, pull up a parts diagram on pelican.

william_b_noble

squeal = loose belt.

a little fraying is harmless - feel free to replace it if you want - I still have the original polyribbed belt on my car after 250K miles - it has some fraying but it drives the AC and generator fine. This belt is not like the timing belt - the worse that happens if it breaks is that your AC and alternator don't work, and so you have to replace it before your battery goes dead - what I would do is to get a spare belt and just put it in the trunk - if the one on the car ever breaks, then replace it as soon as it's convenient.

zerokreap

Well, I got the job done. Test-drove it and everything seems fine...no noises. Thanks for all the feedback! If I had to do it again, I am sure it would only take me an hour or so.

968 GUY

it is a pain to replace that belt. Hopefully you got it tight enough. It does stretch some after a bit. I would rather have to go back to tighten it again (and have) than have it much too tight.
As stated, it is important to loosen the pivot bolts not only for the power steering and A/C compressor, but on the turnbuckles also. They should be torqued to spec.
I recently had my belt pop on the 6-speed, it looked like it had just cracked and split. Had an extra belt for it, but not for the p/s., will have to change that later.

zerokreap

Good to know about the bolts on the turnbuckle...I wasn't sure. I will definitely keep a watch over the belt tension. I checked the tension before I removed the originals..and tried to replicate the tension. I will pick up a belt flex tool sometime soon. Everything seems okay, hopefully I did not screw anything up.

zerokreap

btw, where can you find all of the torque specs?