My (re)build thread. [944/2]
07-16-2014, 04:14 PM
#62
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Well, the locksmith came out - after an hour, he'd spent 4 blanks on the job, but I guess something's wrong with the cylinders.
He asked that I remove the lock cylinders so he can diagnose or possibly re-key them in order to make a single master key for the car. (Is there a guide for this? Removal of locks and ignition key cylinder?)
It's entirely possible that the locks are damaged, as I received the car with no key and the ignition switch dangling beneath the dash. Hopefully he can re-key it or whatever.
He didn't charge for the trip and time.
He asked that I remove the lock cylinders so he can diagnose or possibly re-key them in order to make a single master key for the car. (Is there a guide for this? Removal of locks and ignition key cylinder?)
It's entirely possible that the locks are damaged, as I received the car with no key and the ignition switch dangling beneath the dash. Hopefully he can re-key it or whatever.
He didn't charge for the trip and time.
07-16-2014, 08:27 PM
#63
Well, the locksmith came out - after an hour, he'd spent 4 blanks on the job, but I guess something's wrong with the cylinders.
He asked that I remove the lock cylinders so he can diagnose or possibly re-key them in order to make a single master key for the car. (Is there a guide for this? Removal of locks and ignition key cylinder?)
It's entirely possible that the locks are damaged, as I received the car with no key and the ignition switch dangling beneath the dash. Hopefully he can re-key it or whatever.
He didn't charge for the trip and time.
He asked that I remove the lock cylinders so he can diagnose or possibly re-key them in order to make a single master key for the car. (Is there a guide for this? Removal of locks and ignition key cylinder?)
It's entirely possible that the locks are damaged, as I received the car with no key and the ignition switch dangling beneath the dash. Hopefully he can re-key it or whatever.
He didn't charge for the trip and time.
in german, there is a subtitles link apparently. He removes the lock assembly around the 11 min mark.
07-17-2014, 01:27 PM
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So, smithy yesterday seems to have left the door with the working handle locked.. leaving me unable to open any doors.
After watching a video on removing the locks, I thought it might be worth my time to call the dealer and see, just for kicks, how much a key might cost from them.
$51.60, they said. Hah. Maybe I'm in luck? I stopped in with registration and ordered the Blank ($7) the Keycap ($7) and on Thusrday, they'll do the cutting. Here's hopin'!
After watching a video on removing the locks, I thought it might be worth my time to call the dealer and see, just for kicks, how much a key might cost from them.
$51.60, they said. Hah. Maybe I'm in luck? I stopped in with registration and ordered the Blank ($7) the Keycap ($7) and on Thusrday, they'll do the cutting. Here's hopin'!
Last edited by cybe; 07-21-2014 at 03:12 PM.
07-29-2014, 02:35 PM
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Okay. Ordered a key from the dealership, they got me a blank and then realized they couldn't cut it at the shop -- so, we re-ordered -- a dozen days and some dollars later, we have a MASTER KEY.
Here's whatcha get:
And if your dealer is nice (or screwed up the first time through,) they'll give you one of these handy, high quality key heads:
Which does net you, at the end of the day:
Pardon the photo quality.
Here's whatcha get:
And if your dealer is nice (or screwed up the first time through,) they'll give you one of these handy, high quality key heads:
Which does net you, at the end of the day:
Pardon the photo quality.
07-29-2014, 02:59 PM
#67
Burning Brakes
Why did they say they couldn't cut it? Mine wouldn't either because they said it would mess up their cutter, so I took to a locksmith who said they were idiots, and cut it for free.
07-29-2014, 03:36 PM
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They said Porsche wouldn't give them 'the code', and that the key need be ordered from them directly pre-cut.
(The bag has 'the code' on it, under the sticky note).
I'd like to get a nicer key w/ bigger tab to use, and keep this one tucked away. One of the rubber-headed ones I think.
(The bag has 'the code' on it, under the sticky note).
I'd like to get a nicer key w/ bigger tab to use, and keep this one tucked away. One of the rubber-headed ones I think.
07-30-2014, 09:58 PM
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Works in the glove box .. Works on the hatch .. works in the ignition!!
Does not work in either door, or the lock on the body behind the drivers handle. (What is that anyway?)
My total cost for the key was under forty bucks, if that helps any listers who might be facing some dealer oppression.
* and thanks, a little bit of encouragement means a lot.
Does not work in either door, or the lock on the body behind the drivers handle. (What is that anyway?)
My total cost for the key was under forty bucks, if that helps any listers who might be facing some dealer oppression.
* and thanks, a little bit of encouragement means a lot.
07-30-2014, 10:09 PM
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Borrowed a Motive bleeder from a friend, but it didn't have the proper attachment. Was able to fab one for $10.27 (and a junkyard audi reservoir cap)
Bled the clutch and brakes. Adjusted the squeal out of the alternator belt.
Cleaned up the pile of tools under the car .. I think it's almost time!
Bled the clutch and brakes. Adjusted the squeal out of the alternator belt.
Cleaned up the pile of tools under the car .. I think it's almost time!
07-31-2014, 05:42 PM
#73
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No, you didn't offend. I'm trying to slap you into reality. Unless you like taking engines out and re-doing a bunch of stuff, reinstalling, and then repeat, you need to do this right the first time. I would study the FSM for every step. You should also have general engine rebuilding knowledge. Some things you can be sloppy with, most things you have to be spot on. It looks like you are well organized, so spend some extra time in preparation.
There are numbers stamped on the balance shaft covers that match the block. This is also true for the girdle. These pieces were line honed at the factory, and if you mix and match with other engines, you risk having the shafts bind.
I don't know how many threads I've seen where someone complains about lost oil pressure and it comes down to not using the alignment tool. I can't imagine trying to save $40 and risk engine damage or get stranded. You may be able to borrow one for free.
Do a search on this forum also. There are a bunch of engine rebuild threads. Some go into way more detail than was covered here. These tips could save you time and money.
There are numbers stamped on the balance shaft covers that match the block. This is also true for the girdle. These pieces were line honed at the factory, and if you mix and match with other engines, you risk having the shafts bind.
I don't know how many threads I've seen where someone complains about lost oil pressure and it comes down to not using the alignment tool. I can't imagine trying to save $40 and risk engine damage or get stranded. You may be able to borrow one for free.
Do a search on this forum also. There are a bunch of engine rebuild threads. Some go into way more detail than was covered here. These tips could save you time and money.
From Clarks:
"One of the things that I don't particularly like about the new style relief valve is that oil cooler housing alignment is critical to prevent binding of the relief valve. To accomplish this an alignment tool should be used when the oil cooler housing is being installed. Cars which have relief valve 944 107 035 02 use special tool 9262/1. Cars which use relief valve 944 107 035 11 use special alignment tool 9215." - http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/lube-02.htm
...Though honestly, I'll still probably use it when I put this NA back together.
08-02-2014, 12:46 PM
#74
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Actually got to take it around the block!
Damn that felt good. It dumped the entire contents of steering fluid (atf) and I had to stop let a spider out, the exhaust won't mate up to the header, and the torque tube only has one bolt in it.. and there's no hood .. and the doors don't open .. but I'm happy.
Hey, so if anybody's out there.. how can I get the torque tube to rotate a bit and line up with the bellhousing? I must've displaced it putting the engine back in, where could it bind?
Last edited by cybe; 08-03-2014 at 10:18 PM.
08-06-2014, 10:44 PM
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Right, so I've addressed some issues..
Got a hood on it. It rained immediately thereafter.
Having climbed through the hatch at the gas station .. I converted some Mk2 Corrado door handles to fit and reinstalled. Had to do what basically amounts to a trigger job on the door mechanism, (no photo) to get them operating smoothly.
Hired some help to seat the torque tube and fit the exhaust.
While the help slacked off, I reinstalled the moronic unit and door card, repaired the window track.
Then things got a little silly . . .
Got a hood on it. It rained immediately thereafter.
Having climbed through the hatch at the gas station .. I converted some Mk2 Corrado door handles to fit and reinstalled. Had to do what basically amounts to a trigger job on the door mechanism, (no photo) to get them operating smoothly.
Hired some help to seat the torque tube and fit the exhaust.
While the help slacked off, I reinstalled the moronic unit and door card, repaired the window track.
Then things got a little silly . . .