flightline

So just got done doing a major service to my 951, including rod bearings and timing belts and AOS seals and such. About 30 minutes ago I started it up for the first time since, and I discover a really bad oil leak - looking like it's coming from the pan gasket. I see it dripping from the curved part of the pan where it runs around the oil pump. I used loctite 574 on the pump, following the instructions to the letter and torqueing the bolts with a CDI wrench. I used permatex 'ultra rubber gasket sealant and dressing' as suggest by someone else, although I'm starting to doubt myself; I'm wondering if maybe I only applied it on the top side of the gasket. I have not had any of the 'creeping' problems that some people have reported; the gasket looks like it's exactly where it's supposed to be. Is there any good way to figure out whether it's the oil pump or the pan gasket that's leaking? Either way I have to remove the pan, but I'd rather not have to pull the oil pump again.

VeroWing

I just yesterday finished replacing my rod bearings and oil pan gasket on my 944s. From info I gathered you should put the gasket on dry without any type of sealant, only a small pinch of Permatex UltraGray or simila in the corner areas. That's what I did and no oil leaks. Maybe you can get car in air so you can see where oil is coming out. I know I had bear of a time getting pan and gasket into place correctly, but finally duct taped 8 bolts up through the pan and gasket to keep it in place and got it all in correctly.

flightline

Thanks. I put the pan on with only the permatex in the corners. But like I said, maybe only the top side of the corners. Car's on stands right now, I'll be taking a look later on to see if I can narrow down where it's coming from. Thinking about it, I don't really see how it could be the oil pump, anything leaking through the bottom of the oil pump would end up back in the pan, as the gasket seals against the pump itself. I don't see any oil above the gasket, where it would have to be coming from if it were the oil pump flange. This make any sense? I believe it's a much easier job on an N/A because you don't have to deal with the crossover pipe.

. . .and I think I used the wrong permatex stuff. Ultra Gray =/= "Ultra gasket sealant & dressing" - which is gray and comes in a gray tube. Man that's a dumb mistake.

kwikt

When I did my 968, I installed the gasket dry with no sealer at all. 1 year later and NO leaks.

flightline

Thanks. I'm debating just what I'm going to do this time around. plenty of people seem to have had success with that method. I think I probably made things worse than dry by putting on the wrong sealing compound.

944meister

flightline, how many times did you go over the torque sequence? you have to go over the bolt pattern about 3 times for them to all seat correctly.

flightline

I did the specified pattern at least 3 times - probably more like 4 or 5. I was under the car for a rediculously long time doing it. All fresh hardware of the correct length too.

shortyboy

I would also recommend gasket retainers for good measure.

TexasRider

Sometimes you do it all correct and things just dont hold up. Might be one of them.

J1720

I agree TexasRider. It's happen to me.

flightline

I don't think those are really related to my problem. The area the gasket retainers I've seen fit is not where it's leaking.

kwikt

Agree... it took forever to torque the 1000001 bolts a micromillimeter at a time. Btw, Loctite 574 is a rigid sealant not pliable one. It cures rather quickly when the gasket meets the oil pan....probably a bad idea to use that sealer in this application.

flightline

I used 574 on the oil pump, not the pan; sorry if that wasn't clear. 574 is indicated by clarks-garage and by the factory manual for this iirc. Or are you saying that it interferes with the pan gasket where it transitions from the block to the oil pump?

87 944 C

honostly, should've just gotten rid of a the factory gasket(shouldn't reuse them anyway) and just used silcone gasket maker, comes out of a squeeze tube. it's cheaper, easier, and by the time everything was reinstalled on the engine and ready to fire up, it would've been set.


factory gaskets should be dry installed, best mating to surfaces as nothing's in the way.

F18Rep

I think everyone has a different opinion. One of the old heads here used building adhesive, sounds nutty but he did a lot of them back in the day - search for Elephant Snot. For me, I followed the WSM to the letter till my first water pump leaked, after that I took the WSM with a grain of salt. Whatever works...Bruce

PS here's a pic of my first oil leak, buzz kill