Tovrin

need help. after new clutch, water pump, and timing belt my slave cylinder goes bad, i got both cylinders replaced yesterday, get my car home fine last night.
decide to drive it to work today, i stop for gas, leave the gas station and immediately get on the highway. before i can get to the top of the ramp, i lose all power and the car dies.
i start it after 30 seconds or so and it runs for 10 seconds and dies.

I call my mechanic who graciously comes out to me stuck on the highway, checks DME relay and my sensors, all seem fine, but the car doesnt want to run for more then 10 seconds. he replaced the DME with a newer one and the problem didnt change. if you try starting it prior to approximately 20 seconds it will not even try to fire, until you get closer to the :20 and then it will sputter for a second.

i had to limp her home by getting as much speed in 10 seconds as i could, then coasting until i could start again. what i did notice is that the higher i revved it, the quicker i seemed to die. my mechanic thinks fuel pump is dying, but could not be sure on the side of the road. said i also could have gotten bad gas but that the station i went to (mobile) usually has good gas.
anyone else have thoughts on this?

its an '87 N/A
something else to note that was unusual this morning is my oil pressure meter at an idle was bouncing all over, but the moment you give it gas it went to 5 and stayed steady. Mechanic said its a common dash electronics issue, my volt meter has always done this.
My mechanic is going to test my fuel pressure but its going to be a week because hes got other projects ahead of me. what can i test in the interim?

F40LM

Sounds exactly like what mine did when the fuel pressure regulator went out. About $67 from Autozone and you can replace it yourself in 10 min.

Good luck and keep us posted.

michael

Tovrin

how would i test that? just test the fuel pressure? think autozone would take the part back if it wasnt what i needed?

edit:
answered my own question
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/fuel-07.htm

John_AZ

Unplug one lead to an injector. If the car starts, it is the FPR.

John

Tovrin

ok, just to clarify, the car starts now, just wont stay running, if i pull one lead on an injector, will the car stay running?

jeffrsmith

If it's the FPR it should do, pulling the lead on one injector will increase the flow available to the other injectors, which should keep the car running.

John_AZ

+1^
Check for FPR & FPD leaking by pulling the vacuum hose to the part and check for drops of gas-
look real close and check for any moisture.

Also make a DME jumper per the Clarks information and try. Your mechanic tried a "newer" DME relay---it may also be bad----previously overheated or solder contacts bad.

John

Tovrin

ok, i will try this when i get home from work, thank you. also, we did jumper the DME, there was no change in behavior.

Chunkerz

What condition is your AFM in? I had a similar problem and it turned out the wiper arm wasn't making good contact with the strip.

Tovrin

havent looked at the AFM yet, but i did the FPR test by removing a single injector lead, and the car ran like crap (due to being on 3 cylinders) but it didnt stall.

affectively this means my APR is toast, right? this seems to be an abnormally expensive part at local autozone ($108), even $104 on pelicanparts, is there a way to repair this, or a cheaper vendor i can go through?

Chunkerz

944 Online has it for $99.95

Tovrin

my mechanic pulled one off a parts 86 n/a tested the vacuum, im going to install it tomorrow.

jeffrsmith

Please let us know if this takes care of the problem

Tovrin

it did indeed, 10 minutes worth of work, and she runs great. i got very lucky and my mechanic had a couple of fuel rails not being used, he let me strip the FPR off one of them and it works great.

THANK YOU for the help. between here and clarks-garage i cant lose!