daveo90s4

The rear hatch glass has either slipped out of the horizontal top metal surround or the surround itself has moved. Either way the glass along the top is no longer fitting into the surround. Has anyone else had this problem? Is it simply a matter of removing and refitting the top metal surround so the glass fits into the channel properly?

Many thanks for any replies.

aj986s

Its, unfortunately, a common problem. Usually referred to as delamination of the hatch glass from the frame. When the car was originally built, the layer of black paint around the inner surface of the rear glass, adjacent to the frame, was actually part of a bonding paint, that was supposed to help keep the frame tight to the glass. However, over time UV usually deteriorates the paint/bond, and you start seeing what looks simply like peeling paint. The rear glass being curved, already has a certain amount of stress between the glass and frame, trying to separate. Then, to make matters worse, many have replaced the rear hatch shock struts, with newer, stronger ones. But the problem is now the stronger strut is trying to push the hatch frame away from the hinged points, making the delamination worse.

I don't have a link handy right now, but there are sites online that discuss repairing the delamination, including some recommended 3M(?) bonding paint to refurbish the hatch. From what I've read, its not an easy job, but is doable. Others simply fill the gap with silicone sealant or somesuch, and then paint over it. AFAIK, the gap never gets big enough for the glass to completely fall out of the frame, but is enough to be a serious leak problem.

John_AZ

Pick one....

https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...ing-hatch.html

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...ss_repair2.htm

+++++ many more............

GL
John

pnbell

ya.. I sadly replaced my Hatch Struts and it separated the glass/frame horribly...

Recently i removed the struts, and compressed them over and over again in an attempt to make them softer... it may have helped slightly! haha

The annoying part is the excessive wind noise and the water leakage experienced by this issue.

(a Few Strips of Black Electrical Tape all the way across the seam is actually a decent temporary fix; Meaning it looks OK, and Reduces Wind/Water Issues)

Butters944

I too used new hatch struts I've heard you can go to a junkyard and find a used 944 and take it's old worn struts out, if they still work. Mine were from "üroparts" and way too strong.

Butters944

What I have been doing the past 6 months is, I leave the struts disconnected, open the hatch by hand, pop in a single strut to hold it up, and pop it off again before I close it

86 951 Driver

http://www.docstoc.com/docs/53732181...seal-Procedure

That is the proven method. I have not done it myself, but I have heard that people who have done it never had an issue.

daveo90s4

Thanks guys, brilliant responses. Hatch now removed and all sealant good except for for top horizontal strip (and yes, the previous owner had fitted new stupidly strong hatch struts). I decided to do the job properly. so hatch off, glass now removed from frame, frame to be powder coated and then I'll reinstall the frame to the car, and refit the glass using the recommended (thank you) 3M products.

Then I need new (ie old weak) hatch struts to help prevent this happening again. Any suggestions as to who sells the correct not-too-strong hatch struts?

mytrplseven

It's a big job and there's of course many possibilites on how to do it and what sealer to use. One thing to keep in mind is that the lateral force applied by the shocks is that it may have put a "bow" in the soft aluminum (or aluminium in Britain) upper frame so be sure to check the straightness of the frame before regluing the glass to it. My personal plan is to clean all the glass and aluminum structure, straighten the frame, mask the glass and paint the area to be glued and apply a glass etch liquid that can be bought at craft stores, just to make it as virgin as possible, and then glue with 3m 5200 black and clamp. I've used that stuff in the marine industry and it won't let go of whatever it's attached to and doesn't get 100% hard. Best of all worlds.

veleno

I'll check my car to see if this is happening to it.

PaulD_944S2

When the time comes to replace the stock Porsche struts, I install Sachs hatch strut SG214008 from the 1990 Jeep Wrangler 4.2L 258cid L6 vehicle. The Sachs struts are listed on Rock Auto.

They are about 15-20 lbs lower force than the factory ones. They will lift the window, or will need a tiny bit of lifting assistance, to raise and hold the hatch all the way up.

My hatch glass is still bonded to the frame and shows no sign of separating.

mrgreenjeans

I am curious why the Porsche rear struts, new over the parts counter aren't being used instead of the various after market stuff......

they o.e. product is supposed to be gauged to the correct lifting pressure. I have replaced several of my car's rear struts and have never had an issue using the Porsche original struts. No delamination at all. For my peace of mind, I usually use original Porsche parts made and approved by the manufacturer and no worries on stuff like this happening.

Of course if you wish to buy for 1/2 price a product , then suffer the damage ...... I guess your call.

PaulD_944S2

The Porsche struts were made by Sachs, as are the replacements that I buy at way less than Porsche prices, enough that I can get a couple of tanks of gas.

That's why I use "after market" stuff.

J1NX3D

I used OEM replacements. My hatch is very much separated right now. I'd like to re-emphasis 'separated' as the hatch glass isn't laminated as an autoglass guy pointed out to me. And they refused to reseal it

AZ520

Ordered!
Thanks for the tip! Anyone looking for a good quick fix for there hatch should try this stuff
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/12/...n-Adhesive.htm

After trying window weld and and dow 428 I got desperate and found the best construction adhesive on the market and it works great. The only drawback is the color, but my cars are daily drives so I don't care. I only see it with the hatch open anyway. I only used this to repair the top of the glass and frame, not the entire hatch. I removed as much of the old sealant and cleaned really well with acetone.