stuntman703

Is using a pressure pump the best way to bleed the coolant? I been experiencing overheating and as my temp rises my oil pressure lowers. Anyways, i decided to check the thermostat (not my first rodeo with this), took it out, check it, opens at 180. So now it leads me to believe air caught in my system. I did jack my car up, had heat on, and revved it, steam and "dribble, dribble," did come out so I know since it's not a steady stream theres air.

So what is the best way?

krystar

get car to temperature. crack open bleed screw. out comes steam and dribble. close bleed screw. rev engine until temperature goes back up again. crack open bleed screw. repeat until no steam comes out. may take 4-5 times.

if beyond that it still steams....u may have an issue

stuntman703

Okay, I understand about cracking the bleed screw and revving the engine. But when i close the bleed screw should my temp go down between opening the bleed screw and closing it? Because you mention revving the engine again so the temp goes back up then cracking the bleed screw again.

I noticed when I did remove my thermostat a bunch of coolant came out, idk if that's a sign of anything. I also drilled a small hole in my thermostat to help the bleeding.

m73m95

Rent a pressure bleeder from AutoZone (for free).

Engine cold, fill up the system with the bleeder screw loose. Fill it until some coolant starts to come out the screw. Then tighten it. Pump up the bleeder until you get ~15lbs. Crack the screw again and bleed until coolant comes out. Just like bleeding the brakes, don't lose all of the pressure before you tighten the screw again, or it will suck in air. After bleeding, refill the coolant tank, and do it again. 99% of the time, it will work on the first try, but do it again just to be sure.

It also really helps a LOT to park, nose up, on a hill.

stuntman703

I already have my car's front end jacked up super high for the bleeding process.

n_hall

http://www.944online.com/cgi-bin/for...num=1292014431

stuntman703

UPDATE: Took the thermostat out, checked in, opens at 180. Placed it back it, correctly. Then I used the pressure pump and directions given by m73m95. After all said and done my car's gauge read hot, and really quickly, but I went to the engine bay and the car wasn't even hot. I could grab the manifold, all the hoses were "luke warm," but nothing hot. The only thing that wasn't even above warm was the upper radiator hose to the engine block. Could it be a sensor that's gone bad?

m73m95

I think clarksgarage has a procedure to test the temp sensor.

How quickly is "really quickly" for the gauge to get to hot?

stuntman703

Temp gauge reads hot in possible 10 minutes, fan turns on once the third bar is met. If i rev the engine, the temp gauge goes down. So if i drive on the highway my car never runs hot, but if i have to be at a light too long my car will read hot.

m73m95

The timing belt could be loose, and not spinning the water pump unless you rev the engine. I would pull the top belt cover and check that before you start it again. If that belt jumps a few teeth, you'll have to start another thread....

Jfrahm

Spun water pump impeller maybe. I had this happen on my old S2.

stuntman703

I here what you're saying, i just wish i could do other tests before pulling any strong leg work. Just another fact that also proves I did bleed correctly is that even after using the pump, after the car became hot again, i cracked open the bleeder screw, no steam, just a nice flowing stream.

m73m95

Any details on the water pump? Old, new, rebuilt...?

You can check the tension of the timing belt pretty easily (You should be doing that occasionally anyway). If you don't have any records on the waterpump, and/or you haven't changed it in the last few years, I would plan on changing it.

stuntman703

From my records of the previous owner (thank goodness for ppl who take care of their cars) a new waterpump, timing belt, roller, balance shaft, tension roller, and the washer, rings and gasket at 81K miles. I got the car at 87k miles and currently at 99k miles. But now there is more to this story. I noticed steam coming from the front my engine, between the front of the block and the power steering resevoir. It was determined that it was oil being burnt. Nothing overpowering, just faint steam. Could this be causing my oil pressure to become low=car heating. Also, when my thermostat opens up, and the coolant leaves the resevoir, does it return once the car cools down?