So you're wanting to install 968 door handles..
06-16-2002, 08:44 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
So you're wanting to install 968 door handles..
Boy, what a day! Since I'm having AC compressor problems, need to get some exhaust and vaccuum work done, and should really pay some attention to my trans linkage, I decided to work on installing my Blaupunkt Tokyo (you should see that thing - looks like it was MADE for our dashes) and start on my 968 door handle conversion, being that neither of those improves the running condition of my daily transportation...
Previously, I'd quizzed Olli and whomever on these Forums about which parts were necessary for the conversion from 944 (or 951) door handles to 968 handles, and more or less got the information needed.
For those of you who haven't ordered the parts yet, here is the list, and approximate prices:
944.537.661.04 G2X Door Handle, Left ($65.00)
944.537.662.04 G2X Door Handle, Right ($65.00)
944.537.611.00 Rosette, Left ($18.00)
944.537.612.00 Rosette, Right ($18.00)
944.537.621.00 Base, L (gasket) ($4.00)
944.537.622.00 Base, R (same) ($4.00)
944.537.631.00 Base, L (small gskt)($2.00)
944.537.632.00 Base, R (small gskt)($2.00)
944.537.671.00 Control Lever, L
944.537.672.00 Control Lever, R
944.537.655.00 (x2) Tension Spring ($1.00)
944.537.243.00 (x2) Clinch Pin ($1.00)
Also, if I were doing it again, I'd get the following, although they are certainly optional - it just saves a lot of disassembly headache:
900.309.041.00 (x2) Pin 2x12mm
999.218.079.02 (x2) Screw M3x5 self-locking
The 3x5mm screw you MUST have. I got mine at a hardware store, but it would have been better had I had the correct part, and in terms of labor hours, it is a waste of my time to scrounge for a 50 cent screw...
Here are the parts listed, the necessary ones in the "flashes" and the optional screw and pin in the circles:
Now for the procedure (for 951 with central locking option)...
(Feel free to jump in here Olli and others)
First, open the door and locate and remove the big philips screw in the side of the door (this is part #6 in the illustration). The grasp the handle from the outside and push/slide it toward the front of the car - it should pop free, allowing you to swing the rear of the handle away from the car a few centimeters.
At this point, you will see (from above, listed from front of car rearward)
- A black plastic box clipped on a pot metal lock assembly (the assembly is part #44 in the illustration) with a wiring harness attached to it (this will be under a clamp held by a shallow flat-headed screw). This is the power door lock solenoid - be very careful unclipping this after you remove the clamp - I've been warned that the tabs WILL BREAK, ruining the chances of a low-buck conversion! The box clips from the top and bottom.
- The pot metal lock assembly (part #44). High quality materials, YAY!
- An arm attached to the lock assembly that is clipped onto a white plastic arm (part #9), ball and socket style. Pop this plastic socket loose, but don't let it flip into the door, or you'll have to fish for it.
- And finally, the pot metal mechanism that the control lever (which should be black, and pretty worn by now) activates (this is the 944 version of part # 40). This is secured to the door handle at the bottom of the mechanism by a PIN (unlike the 968 part, which is secured and pivots from the TOP). You must tap out the pin (part # 41 - DO NOT LOSE IT), and then you should be able to coax the door handle away from the car, rotting gaskets falling away in pieces...
CONGRATULATIONS! You have now removed the outer door handle and can no longer get into your car! (how does it feel to be me?)
Ok, take that thing into the house (or to the work table, or - if you are a doofus, kneel down on the lawn) to do the conversion work.
FIRST - examine the difference in thickness between the tabs that mount the pot-metal mechanism mentioned previously (that swings in an arc when activated by the control lever and pushes an metal arm - corresponding to #40). The tabs on the 944 handle are noticeably thinner. At this point, decide to:
A - use a file to make the 968 tabs thinner,
B - use a file to give the pot metal mechanism still attached to the car a wider channel to fit the 968 tabs, or
C- call Porsche and order 944.537.261.02 and 944.537.262.02 (reverse lever) that corresponds to the 968 handle. (guess you should have read this before you pulled the handle, huh?)
I did a combination of A and B, and am satisfied with the results (if we wanted to spend money, we wouldn't be gutting the and recyling the old handles, would we?).
OK then, set the 944 handle aside, and pick up the 968 handle, the rose, and your 3x5mm screw. Go ahead and screw the rose onto the handle (you will be MAKING the threads). Then remove it. Grab the control lever, pin (48), and spring (47), and assemble the control lever mechanism onto the 968 handle, using the 944 handle for reference. If you are gutting the 944 handle for these parts, be sure to examine the orientation of the spring before tear-down, and BE SURE TO PAY ATTENTION TO LEFT AND RIGHT on the 968 stuff! Use a punch (or a worn-down cordless screwdriver philips bit, as I did) and hammer to flare the hollow end of the pin (assemble with the hollow end down just in case) to lock the control lever assembly into the 968 handle.
Grab the 944 handle and locate the philips screw (#10) on the end of the lock assembly. Remove it, paying attention to the orientation of the two rotating pieces (no, I don't know the names, but one of them is #7) and the spring. ALSO - BE SURE TO OBSERVE THE ORIENTATION OF THE BLACK PLASTIC GEAR THAT ACTIVATES THE POWER DOOR LOCK SOLENOID (ask me how I discovered the importance of this). Insert the key into the lock and remove the lock cylinder from the other side of the handle (you will be pulling it out of lock assembly housing #44), leaving the key in the lock.
Remove the key from the lock, slide the Rosette up the key against the handle as if the key were inserted in an invisible 968 door lock, and reisert the key into the lock cylinder (with rosette between key handle and lock cylinder).
Pick up the 968 handle with control lever assembly installed, and insert Key/Rosette/Lock Cylinder into the handle. Apply some blue loctite (you will not be able to access this screw beyond this point) to the threads of your M3x5mm screw (#2) and insert into back of Rosette and tighten down, pinning the lock cylinder in the handle (between Rosette and Handle frame).
Now grab the 944 handle again. Locate the tiny pin that secures the pot-metal lock assebly housing to the door handle frame (#45, but MUCH SMALLER than it is in the illustration!). Punch it out (I used a broken probe tip from my Ohm meter and a hammer, holding the handle in my hand) and remove the pot metal housing (#4a, without lock cylinder).
Transfer this housing to the 968 handle, being sure to VERIFY THE CORRECT ORIENTATION OF THE BLACK PLASTIC GEAR THAT ACTIVATES THE CENTRAL LOCKING SOLENOID - ask me again how I know to verify this) as you slide the housing down onto the lock cylinder. Insert the pin (#45) from the 944 handle with a suitable punch to secure the housing into the handle. Reassemble the spring and two rotating metal pieces (as they were oriented upon disassembly) into the end of the assembly, and secure with the philips screw (#10) from the 944 handle. Drop some 3-in-1 oil into the lock cylinder through the access holes in the cylinder and handle frame, turn the key back and forth a few times to lubricate evenly, and remove the key.
Affix the base gaskets (#s 12 and 13) onto the back of the handle (they will be held on by tiny posts).
At this point tou have an ASSEMBLED 968 DOOR HANDLE! Go put in on the car!
To install in the door, start with the Central locking Black Box solenoid. CAREFULLY clip it back onto the lock assembly housing (#44). Ensure that the chiseled tip of the solenoid arm will rest in the valley of the black plastic gear when the key is out of the lock. If not, the car will be continually trying to lock or unlock itself, depending on which direction the gear is mis-oriented, and you will have to do a complete teardown to rectify the problem. When the Black Box is attached, screw the clamp down with the flat-head screw you removed from that location.
Next, pop the plastic arm (#9) back onto the ball attached to the lock assembly.
Then squeeze the control lever and slide the pot metal portion of part #40 around the nub on the control lever in such a way that the tabs on the door handle are in the valley, as it was originally. At this point you should be able to tell if the filing job you performed on the handle tabs, or the pot metal reverse lever (or both) will be sufficient to allow a full range of motion in the arc necessary for proper door latch operation. If not, take this opportunity to get the file in there and work on it!
When satisfied with the clearance and fit, reinsert pin #41. This will probably require a helper to hold the parts in alignment while you position and tap the pin in.
Slide the handle forward and rearward to seat it on the door. You will notice that the base gaskets 12 and 13 are shaped in such a way as to fill the depression stamped in the doorskin for the original handle. (Be sure to argue in the future when someone tries to insist that there were different doors used for 924/944/968 models)
Finally, test the operation of the control lever while holding the handle tight against the door, then resinsert Philips Screw #6 through the side of the door to secure the handle.
Test everything, then test drive. You will notice that the car seems to be exactly the same mechanically.
The process of course is the same for the other door. If performing the conversion on a non-Central Locking 944, you will find the process much simpler, as there is no gear orientation, solenoid destruction, or limited acces to Rosette securing screw (#2) to overcome.
Previously, I'd quizzed Olli and whomever on these Forums about which parts were necessary for the conversion from 944 (or 951) door handles to 968 handles, and more or less got the information needed.
For those of you who haven't ordered the parts yet, here is the list, and approximate prices:
944.537.661.04 G2X Door Handle, Left ($65.00)
944.537.662.04 G2X Door Handle, Right ($65.00)
944.537.611.00 Rosette, Left ($18.00)
944.537.612.00 Rosette, Right ($18.00)
944.537.621.00 Base, L (gasket) ($4.00)
944.537.622.00 Base, R (same) ($4.00)
944.537.631.00 Base, L (small gskt)($2.00)
944.537.632.00 Base, R (small gskt)($2.00)
944.537.671.00 Control Lever, L
944.537.672.00 Control Lever, R
944.537.655.00 (x2) Tension Spring ($1.00)
944.537.243.00 (x2) Clinch Pin ($1.00)
Also, if I were doing it again, I'd get the following, although they are certainly optional - it just saves a lot of disassembly headache:
900.309.041.00 (x2) Pin 2x12mm
999.218.079.02 (x2) Screw M3x5 self-locking
The 3x5mm screw you MUST have. I got mine at a hardware store, but it would have been better had I had the correct part, and in terms of labor hours, it is a waste of my time to scrounge for a 50 cent screw...
Here are the parts listed, the necessary ones in the "flashes" and the optional screw and pin in the circles:
Now for the procedure (for 951 with central locking option)...
(Feel free to jump in here Olli and others)
First, open the door and locate and remove the big philips screw in the side of the door (this is part #6 in the illustration). The grasp the handle from the outside and push/slide it toward the front of the car - it should pop free, allowing you to swing the rear of the handle away from the car a few centimeters.
At this point, you will see (from above, listed from front of car rearward)
- A black plastic box clipped on a pot metal lock assembly (the assembly is part #44 in the illustration) with a wiring harness attached to it (this will be under a clamp held by a shallow flat-headed screw). This is the power door lock solenoid - be very careful unclipping this after you remove the clamp - I've been warned that the tabs WILL BREAK, ruining the chances of a low-buck conversion! The box clips from the top and bottom.
- The pot metal lock assembly (part #44). High quality materials, YAY!
- An arm attached to the lock assembly that is clipped onto a white plastic arm (part #9), ball and socket style. Pop this plastic socket loose, but don't let it flip into the door, or you'll have to fish for it.
- And finally, the pot metal mechanism that the control lever (which should be black, and pretty worn by now) activates (this is the 944 version of part # 40). This is secured to the door handle at the bottom of the mechanism by a PIN (unlike the 968 part, which is secured and pivots from the TOP). You must tap out the pin (part # 41 - DO NOT LOSE IT), and then you should be able to coax the door handle away from the car, rotting gaskets falling away in pieces...
CONGRATULATIONS! You have now removed the outer door handle and can no longer get into your car! (how does it feel to be me?)
Ok, take that thing into the house (or to the work table, or - if you are a doofus, kneel down on the lawn) to do the conversion work.
FIRST - examine the difference in thickness between the tabs that mount the pot-metal mechanism mentioned previously (that swings in an arc when activated by the control lever and pushes an metal arm - corresponding to #40). The tabs on the 944 handle are noticeably thinner. At this point, decide to:
A - use a file to make the 968 tabs thinner,
B - use a file to give the pot metal mechanism still attached to the car a wider channel to fit the 968 tabs, or
C- call Porsche and order 944.537.261.02 and 944.537.262.02 (reverse lever) that corresponds to the 968 handle. (guess you should have read this before you pulled the handle, huh?)
I did a combination of A and B, and am satisfied with the results (if we wanted to spend money, we wouldn't be gutting the and recyling the old handles, would we?).
OK then, set the 944 handle aside, and pick up the 968 handle, the rose, and your 3x5mm screw. Go ahead and screw the rose onto the handle (you will be MAKING the threads). Then remove it. Grab the control lever, pin (48), and spring (47), and assemble the control lever mechanism onto the 968 handle, using the 944 handle for reference. If you are gutting the 944 handle for these parts, be sure to examine the orientation of the spring before tear-down, and BE SURE TO PAY ATTENTION TO LEFT AND RIGHT on the 968 stuff! Use a punch (or a worn-down cordless screwdriver philips bit, as I did) and hammer to flare the hollow end of the pin (assemble with the hollow end down just in case) to lock the control lever assembly into the 968 handle.
Grab the 944 handle and locate the philips screw (#10) on the end of the lock assembly. Remove it, paying attention to the orientation of the two rotating pieces (no, I don't know the names, but one of them is #7) and the spring. ALSO - BE SURE TO OBSERVE THE ORIENTATION OF THE BLACK PLASTIC GEAR THAT ACTIVATES THE POWER DOOR LOCK SOLENOID (ask me how I discovered the importance of this). Insert the key into the lock and remove the lock cylinder from the other side of the handle (you will be pulling it out of lock assembly housing #44), leaving the key in the lock.
Remove the key from the lock, slide the Rosette up the key against the handle as if the key were inserted in an invisible 968 door lock, and reisert the key into the lock cylinder (with rosette between key handle and lock cylinder).
Pick up the 968 handle with control lever assembly installed, and insert Key/Rosette/Lock Cylinder into the handle. Apply some blue loctite (you will not be able to access this screw beyond this point) to the threads of your M3x5mm screw (#2) and insert into back of Rosette and tighten down, pinning the lock cylinder in the handle (between Rosette and Handle frame).
Now grab the 944 handle again. Locate the tiny pin that secures the pot-metal lock assebly housing to the door handle frame (#45, but MUCH SMALLER than it is in the illustration!). Punch it out (I used a broken probe tip from my Ohm meter and a hammer, holding the handle in my hand) and remove the pot metal housing (#4a, without lock cylinder).
Transfer this housing to the 968 handle, being sure to VERIFY THE CORRECT ORIENTATION OF THE BLACK PLASTIC GEAR THAT ACTIVATES THE CENTRAL LOCKING SOLENOID - ask me again how I know to verify this) as you slide the housing down onto the lock cylinder. Insert the pin (#45) from the 944 handle with a suitable punch to secure the housing into the handle. Reassemble the spring and two rotating metal pieces (as they were oriented upon disassembly) into the end of the assembly, and secure with the philips screw (#10) from the 944 handle. Drop some 3-in-1 oil into the lock cylinder through the access holes in the cylinder and handle frame, turn the key back and forth a few times to lubricate evenly, and remove the key.
Affix the base gaskets (#s 12 and 13) onto the back of the handle (they will be held on by tiny posts).
At this point tou have an ASSEMBLED 968 DOOR HANDLE! Go put in on the car!
To install in the door, start with the Central locking Black Box solenoid. CAREFULLY clip it back onto the lock assembly housing (#44). Ensure that the chiseled tip of the solenoid arm will rest in the valley of the black plastic gear when the key is out of the lock. If not, the car will be continually trying to lock or unlock itself, depending on which direction the gear is mis-oriented, and you will have to do a complete teardown to rectify the problem. When the Black Box is attached, screw the clamp down with the flat-head screw you removed from that location.
Next, pop the plastic arm (#9) back onto the ball attached to the lock assembly.
Then squeeze the control lever and slide the pot metal portion of part #40 around the nub on the control lever in such a way that the tabs on the door handle are in the valley, as it was originally. At this point you should be able to tell if the filing job you performed on the handle tabs, or the pot metal reverse lever (or both) will be sufficient to allow a full range of motion in the arc necessary for proper door latch operation. If not, take this opportunity to get the file in there and work on it!
When satisfied with the clearance and fit, reinsert pin #41. This will probably require a helper to hold the parts in alignment while you position and tap the pin in.
Slide the handle forward and rearward to seat it on the door. You will notice that the base gaskets 12 and 13 are shaped in such a way as to fill the depression stamped in the doorskin for the original handle. (Be sure to argue in the future when someone tries to insist that there were different doors used for 924/944/968 models)
Finally, test the operation of the control lever while holding the handle tight against the door, then resinsert Philips Screw #6 through the side of the door to secure the handle.
Test everything, then test drive. You will notice that the car seems to be exactly the same mechanically.
The process of course is the same for the other door. If performing the conversion on a non-Central Locking 944, you will find the process much simpler, as there is no gear orientation, solenoid destruction, or limited acces to Rosette securing screw (#2) to overcome.
06-16-2002, 09:17 PM
#2
Done With Sidepatch
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Mother of God...That ranks up with Jax's post on the thermostat snap ring...I am truly laughing with you...Muhahahaha... <img src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" border="0" alt="[hiha]" /> 
<img src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" border="0" alt="[hiha]" />
<img src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" border="0" alt="[hiha]" />
06-16-2002, 10:07 PM
#3
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I was interested in the blaupunkt comment you made, I have recently purchased a blaupunkt honolulu for my 968 and I searched far and wide for the model that looked like it would best suit our dash lighting. I just checked out some tokyo pics and have to day that is a nice head unit. The tokyo and the honolulu are definitely the best for our dash. Maybe I should trade mine in on a tokyo?
06-16-2002, 11:46 PM
#7
Drifting
Thread Starter
Haven't seen the Honolulu, but I really like the Tokyo. Suddenly, the AMBER lighting looks good in the dash! This may ruin my LED plans...
I'll try to get some pics to post, installed. I'd like to see that Honolulu as well.
I grabbed the Tokyo from a guy selling factory reconditioned units (90 day warranty) on Ebay for pretty cheap (considering it was a $425.00 head unit two years ago).
I'm planning on getting the Thummer, as well.
About the 968 mirrors: I am itching to do them, as soon as someone coughs up some info on what parts are needed for that conversion. It is really somewhat difficult to look at an exploded parts diagram and make an accurate assesment of the necessary pieces for something like this.
Of course, I DO need to get some "necessary" repairs done beforehand... AND finish moving the window switches to the center console (which is coming along NICELY!)
I'll try to get some pics to post, installed. I'd like to see that Honolulu as well.
I grabbed the Tokyo from a guy selling factory reconditioned units (90 day warranty) on Ebay for pretty cheap (considering it was a $425.00 head unit two years ago).
I'm planning on getting the Thummer, as well.
About the 968 mirrors: I am itching to do them, as soon as someone coughs up some info on what parts are needed for that conversion. It is really somewhat difficult to look at an exploded parts diagram and make an accurate assesment of the necessary pieces for something like this.
Of course, I DO need to get some "necessary" repairs done beforehand... AND finish moving the window switches to the center console (which is coming along NICELY!)
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06-17-2002, 12:21 AM
#8
Drifting
Thread Starter
Just came in and noticed that the 968 handle design is really just a mimicry of the 993 cup wheel spoke design - the rosette shape even mimics the holes for the lug nuts!
Wonderful stuff.
- and looks terrific on the 951.
Wonderful stuff.
- and looks terrific on the 951.
06-17-2002, 12:37 AM
#10
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[quote] AND finish moving the window switches to the center console (which is coming along NICELY!) <hr></blockquote> I recently purchased and installed "Window Express" from paragon products for express one touch up and down windows. Great product!
06-17-2002, 09:57 AM
#11
Three Wheelin'
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PAINT! Ya forgot the paint! Seriously, Keith, an excellent procedure write-up that needs to be archived in an FAQ somewhere...
Jim, "jumping in" <img src="graemlins/jumper.gif" border="0" alt="[jumper]" />
Seriously, Keith, an excellent procedure write-up that needs to be archived in an FAQ somewhere...Jim, "jumping in" <img src="graemlins/jumper.gif" border="0" alt="[jumper]" />
06-30-2002, 09:22 PM
#13
Drifting
Thread Starter
I GOOFED!!!
[quote] OK then, set the 944 handle aside, and pick up the 968 handle, the rose, and your 3x5mm screw. Go ahead and screw the rose onto the handle (you will be MAKING the threads). Then remove it. Grab the control lever, pin (48), and spring (47), and assemble the control lever mechanism onto the 968 handle, using the 944 handle for reference. If you are gutting the 944 handle for these parts, be sure to examine the orientation of the spring before tear-down, and BE SURE TO PAY ATTENTION TO LEFT AND RIGHT on the 968 stuff! Use a punch (or a worn-down cordless screwdriver philips bit, as I did) and hammer to flare the hollow end of the pin (assemble with the hollow end down just in case) to lock the control lever assembly into the 968 handle.
Grab the 944 handle and locate the philips screw (#10) on the end of the lock assembly. Remove it, paying attention to the orientation of the two rotating pieces (no, I don't know the names, but one of them is #7) and the spring. ALSO - BE SURE TO OBSERVE THE ORIENTATION OF THE BLACK PLASTIC GEAR THAT ACTIVATES THE POWER DOOR LOCK SOLENOID (ask me how I discovered the importance of this). Insert the key into the lock and remove the lock cylinder from the other side of the handle (you will be pulling it out of lock assembly housing #44), leaving the key in the lock.
Remove the key from the lock, slide the Rosette up the key against the handle as if the key were inserted in an invisible 968 door lock, and reisert the key into the lock cylinder (with rosette between key handle and lock cylinder).
Pick up the 968 handle with control lever assembly installed, and insert Key/Rosette/Lock Cylinder into the handle.
Apply some blue loctite (you will not be able to access this screw beyond this point) to the threads of your M3x5mm screw (#2) and insert into back of Rosette and tighten down, pinning the lock cylinder in the handle (between Rosette and Handle frame).
<hr></blockquote>
Ok, so I'm a doofus. Turns out that the genius that I am did not realise that the lock cylinder assembly would SLIDE IN FROM THE BACK, ASSEMBLED! So in the passage above, the BOLD parts aren't necessarily correct, as you can install the Rosette, then put the lock cylinder into the housing, and slide it in from the back up against the back of the Rosette. Then install the pin to lock it in there.
Sorry for the "around the elbow" path I advised previously.
[quote] OK then, set the 944 handle aside, and pick up the 968 handle, the rose, and your 3x5mm screw. Go ahead and screw the rose onto the handle (you will be MAKING the threads). Then remove it. Grab the control lever, pin (48), and spring (47), and assemble the control lever mechanism onto the 968 handle, using the 944 handle for reference. If you are gutting the 944 handle for these parts, be sure to examine the orientation of the spring before tear-down, and BE SURE TO PAY ATTENTION TO LEFT AND RIGHT on the 968 stuff! Use a punch (or a worn-down cordless screwdriver philips bit, as I did) and hammer to flare the hollow end of the pin (assemble with the hollow end down just in case) to lock the control lever assembly into the 968 handle.
Grab the 944 handle and locate the philips screw (#10) on the end of the lock assembly. Remove it, paying attention to the orientation of the two rotating pieces (no, I don't know the names, but one of them is #7) and the spring. ALSO - BE SURE TO OBSERVE THE ORIENTATION OF THE BLACK PLASTIC GEAR THAT ACTIVATES THE POWER DOOR LOCK SOLENOID (ask me how I discovered the importance of this). Insert the key into the lock and remove the lock cylinder from the other side of the handle (you will be pulling it out of lock assembly housing #44), leaving the key in the lock.
Remove the key from the lock, slide the Rosette up the key against the handle as if the key were inserted in an invisible 968 door lock, and reisert the key into the lock cylinder (with rosette between key handle and lock cylinder).
Pick up the 968 handle with control lever assembly installed, and insert Key/Rosette/Lock Cylinder into the handle.
Apply some blue loctite (you will not be able to access this screw beyond this point) to the threads of your M3x5mm screw (#2) and insert into back of Rosette and tighten down, pinning the lock cylinder in the handle (between Rosette and Handle frame).
<hr></blockquote>
Ok, so I'm a doofus. Turns out that the genius that I am did not realise that the lock cylinder assembly would SLIDE IN FROM THE BACK, ASSEMBLED! So in the passage above, the BOLD parts aren't necessarily correct, as you can install the Rosette, then put the lock cylinder into the housing, and slide it in from the back up against the back of the Rosette. Then install the pin to lock it in there.
Sorry for the "around the elbow" path I advised previously.
07-01-2002, 03:21 AM
#15
Keith,
well writen description ! I used 944 control levers, which caused a little pit extra work.I have used some "slave" labor when installing 968 handles for several 944's.My 14-year old son(owner of our car) has much smaller hands which helps a lot !
Just returned for 2 week vacation from Austria/Germany.We visitid Gmund, where's a very good Porsche museum.Also west from Munich is a little village called Amerang, which has a very good musemum covering all German marks.It has a very good Porsche section.
Olli,
'88 951 with 968 handles & mirrors
well writen description ! I used 944 control levers, which caused a little pit extra work.I have used some "slave" labor when installing 968 handles for several 944's.My 14-year old son(owner of our car) has much smaller hands which helps a lot !
Just returned for 2 week vacation from Austria/Germany.We visitid Gmund, where's a very good Porsche museum.Also west from Munich is a little village called Amerang, which has a very good musemum covering all German marks.It has a very good Porsche section.
Olli,
'88 951 with 968 handles & mirrors