Perculator00

What year/model Porsche normally run that V8 motor? Whats the displacement on it?

V2Rocket

thats not a porsche motor, thats a Chevroley LT-1 Small block out of a Formula Firebird. It's a 5.7L (350ci) iron-block engine, something like 330HP?

lovemyp-car

the engine was stock around 315-330, but with the small go fast upgrades i added it should be at about 450 at the crank (i'm hoping).

So here are some mistakes i made...
Make sure you have a shallow flywheel, i had two when i was installing the clutch, one was a stock lt1 flywheel that was about 1 3/4 inch thick, and i had one that came with my renegade kit (that i bought on ebay) that was only about 3/4 inch thick. I didn't realize there was a difference, so i installed the deeper flywheel, and it pinned the pressure plate to the bellhousing when i tried to bolt it up.

You won't be able to buy a clutch alignment tool that will work (or at least i couldn't find one) so what you need to do is install the pilot bearing in the back of the crank, install the flywheel with the clutch and pressure plate bolted LOOSELY on to the flywheel, and then install the engine onto the torque tube without the bellhousing installed so you can align the clutch disk.

Check things like the clutch throwout bearing and the CLUTCH FORK. My clutch fork retaining pin/bracket (on the back of the fork) was broken, and i didn't know it when i installed the bellhousing...so the lesson here is if you're buying anything CHECK IT ALL!! pull everything apart and check everything

oh, and a little tip...if you think you have everything, you've forgotten something, and if you think you have almost everything, you're forgetting a bunch of stuff. Pretty much there will always be something you need, like a crank balancer for a low mount alternator kit, or different bolts for the water pump, or a hose here or a sleeve there. Expect some extra's and some unexpected's

lovemyp-car

i'm going to leave the transmission for a while and drive it really easy because i don't have enough for a turbo transmission, but eventually i'm going to go with a later model (maybe turbo s) transmission
i still haven't decided on where i'm going to go with paint, so the first thing i'm going to do is take the outside paint off and reprimer the whole thing with some high quality stuff, no rattlecans (and no roller...) then later on i'll decide on a final color and do it up real nice
i asked on the porsche board about the steam pipe but i couldn't find anything...however my dad and i figured it out, so i have all the pipe and fittings, i'll post that stuff up over there in a day or two.MOST DEFINITELY! hopefully the car will be drivable by then!


Thanks for the praise guys!
Ethan

CurtP

Stock F-body LT1 was 285 HP, 325 ft lbs torque. Hot cam and 1.6 rockers will add a little, but it's minimal - it will sound good though. A good tune will help, but don't rely on a mail-order tune to get the most out of that engine (especially from those guys). Too bad Shalin no longer does tunes, although I think he moved out of MD a long time ago.

As for the coolant crossover pipe - you'll be better off getting the factory setup, IMO. GM part number 12556260 is for the pipe, banjo bolts and seals for your year engine. If you can find the pipe, part number 10108689 is for the seals and 12552974 is the bolts. I don't recall off the top of my head what the thread size/pitch is. DO NOT reuse those bolts unless you absolutely cannot get new ones. I can't even begin to stress that enough! I can't imagine installing that crossover pipe with the engine in the car being much fun.

lovemyp-car

i'll try the pipe fittings, it should work fine, i've seen another hybrider that did that and he's pushing over 500 horsepower from a bored out 383...it's amazing!

I've also got ported heads and a dual 58mm throttle body and intake so that should increase flow some. With some good tubular headers and a 3 1/2 or 4 inch exhaust it should sound great and put down some good power.

Whisper

https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...lbar-more.html

... with an LSD, and pretty cheap. Only reason I didn't buy it myself is that I found one with an oil cooler.

CurtP

They're not pipe threads, so I'd be extremely cautious. Doesn't matter what kind of power you're putting down, but that pipe is extremely important. The reason I recommended the factory setup is because the stock setup is all metal - no rubber or other weak point to fail. The heat that goes through that pipe is pretty intense - it's referred to as a steam pipe for a reason. Make sure you bleed air out of the cooling system thoroughly. I've always thought that there should be another coolant bleed on that pipe.

Stock heads? Any flow numbers? I'd spend considerable amount of time on the headers - do any F or Y-body LT headers fit, or is this a custom only setup?

I've tossed the idea around about taking the motor out of my 'Bird, detuning it and stuffing it in the 951. I think I'd rather do a LS1 with just a few bolt-ons instead. Here's my turd:

VOoDOoGTX

paint the engine bay black and be done with it then. black wont stand out that bad. red does.

lovemyp-car

no flow numbers unfortunately, but they are stock aluminum heads. Headers are mostly a custom job, there are some Sanderson Headers, and some Jegs that have been said to fit (using a shorty style block hugger) but for 250 bucks you can buy enough stainless tubing, a small pipe bender, and flanges to build your own shweet long tube or 3/4 length headers.

That's interesting about the threads not being a standard pipe thread...because my dad (the civil engineer who designs pipeline systems) found the thread pitch and diameter and matched it to a brass pipe fitting. I'm not trying to be a jerk, although it is coming out a little like that...but i will most definitely heed your advice and proceed cautiously with the steam pipe setup, thanks for your concern and advice!

I've considered black (i love satin black, and have considered doing the entire car that color) so i'll do that eventually. At this shining moment the last thing i'm worrying about is paint...simply because i: A. don't have the money to get good stuff B. don't have the time with school (i'm a senior in high school) C. it's not part of this project at the moment, everything has it's own place and time

lovemyp-car

thanks for the heads up, but the problem is that transmission costs about 1000 bucks more than i have right now........i spent pretty much all of my money on this swap (i can do that because i'm still a dependant/senior in high school, bad excuse i know but it'll do for now, until i can get out of this dorm and get a job.....)

blown 944

the NA trans can live, you just have to take it easy in first and second then get on it. I have used an NA trans in my 83 s/c car with some luck.

Rogue_Ant

If you are using the LT4 valvetrain, then I would make sure to use the LT4 knock module... Otherwise your ECU will pick up false-knock and pull timing, losing power.


-Rogue

CurtP

No taper on the threads and the root/crest are different. Just because it threads in, doesn't mean it's right and your dad should know that. You're not painting a picture of him being a very good CE. Get aggressive with a NPT fitting that's harder than the aluminum that it's going in, and you run a very high risk of pulling the threads out of the head. Seen it done on more than one occasion.

Lorax

I'll sell you a turbo trans for 400. Shifts smoothly, has cooler.