Alternator rebuild
#76
Rennlist Member
Yes, Dechiles, that would do it..Also, examine the springs behind the brushes. if one of those breaks. that would allow the brush to bounce around and give intermittent voltage results and make your gauges do wonky things.
If you want more voltage, out of an alternator, you will have to change the voltage regulator to something else that will give you the results you want. If you want AC current from an alternator, you have to remove the rectifier that's in there and bypass it to the output post. there are outfits out there that will do this for you...look for automotive electric shops...
If you want more voltage, out of an alternator, you will have to change the voltage regulator to something else that will give you the results you want. If you want AC current from an alternator, you have to remove the rectifier that's in there and bypass it to the output post. there are outfits out there that will do this for you...look for automotive electric shops...
#77
Yes, Dechiles, that would do it..Also, examine the springs behind the brushes. if one of those breaks. that would allow the brush to bounce around and give intermittent voltage results and make your gauges do wonky things.
If you want more voltage, out of an alternator, you will have to change the voltage regulator to something else that will give you the results you want. If you want AC current from an alternator, you have to remove the rectifier that's in there and bypass it to the output post. there are outfits out there that will do this for you...look for automotive electric shops...
If you want more voltage, out of an alternator, you will have to change the voltage regulator to something else that will give you the results you want. If you want AC current from an alternator, you have to remove the rectifier that's in there and bypass it to the output post. there are outfits out there that will do this for you...look for automotive electric shops...
#78
Rennlist Member
Should be,,,before you tear into it, take it down to AutoZone, or a store that has a test bench. Test it and see what the results are. When the tech does the test, the bench should be able to give you #'s. Should be between 13.5 to 15.5 volts. If it sounds OK, and the results are good, why go into it? However, if the bearings sound or feel rough, or gritty, it's time to give it an overhaul. My car sat for about 10+ years, outside, also, but the alternator tested well and the pulley spun freely. I was able to spin it up using a small motor and listened to the bearings..they seemed fine. so I'm going to leave it alone for now..
#79
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
If *all* of the gauges are going out, I'd suspect it's a grounding issue. Things like water temp and fuel work when just the key is turned on, before the alternator starts charging.
I believe the early cars (pre '85.5) have a different alternator than the one in my pictures.
I believe the early cars (pre '85.5) have a different alternator than the one in my pictures.
#80
If *all* of the gauges are going out, I'd suspect it's a grounding issue. Things like water temp and fuel work when just the key is turned on, before the alternator starts charging.
I believe the early cars (pre '85.5) have a different alternator than the one in my pictures.
I believe the early cars (pre '85.5) have a different alternator than the one in my pictures.
#81
Should be,,,before you tear into it, take it down to AutoZone, or a store that has a test bench. Test it and see what the results are. When the tech does the test, the bench should be able to give you #'s. Should be between 13.5 to 15.5 volts. If it sounds OK, and the results are good, why go into it? However, if the bearings sound or feel rough, or gritty, it's time to give it an overhaul. My car sat for about 10+ years, outside, also, but the alternator tested well and the pulley spun freely. I was able to spin it up using a small motor and listened to the bearings..they seemed fine. so I'm going to leave it alone for now..