What i have is a 2.5 944 87 stick.
10-25-2006, 08:57 AM
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What i have is a 2.5 944 87 stick.
Is all i need to change is the fly wheel.The other engine is a 86 2.5 automatic.so the fly wheel is the only thing that has to be changed ?
10-25-2006, 02:21 PM
#3
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Your 87 engine has an oil level sensor in the pan.
If you leave this disconnected (the 86 has no sensor), the low oil light will always be illuminated.
The easiest thing to do is to switch the pan from the 87 engine to your new 86 engine. Then it will work just like the 87 engine.
Also, your 87 engine has an automatic timing belt tensioner, the 86 has a manual one. Many prefer the manual one, but be certain that you know how to operate it.
A final thing worth mentioning, CHANGE THE TIMING BELTS AND ROLLERS ON THE NEW ENGINE.
If you leave this disconnected (the 86 has no sensor), the low oil light will always be illuminated.
The easiest thing to do is to switch the pan from the 87 engine to your new 86 engine. Then it will work just like the 87 engine.
Also, your 87 engine has an automatic timing belt tensioner, the 86 has a manual one. Many prefer the manual one, but be certain that you know how to operate it.
A final thing worth mentioning, CHANGE THE TIMING BELTS AND ROLLERS ON THE NEW ENGINE.
10-26-2006, 09:10 AM
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So is this all that needs changed for the 86 2.5 automatic 944 engine too fit in my 87 2.5 stick 944 throttle cam/cable, bell housing, Oil pan and the fly wheel
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10-26-2006, 04:35 PM
#8
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And change the timing belt, ALWAYS change the timing belt.....
You could change the engine mounts, and since you will have the oil pan off, I would change the oil pickup tube O-ring and the rod bearings. #2 rod bearing failures are pretty common in 944's.
You could change the engine mounts, and since you will have the oil pan off, I would change the oil pickup tube O-ring and the rod bearings. #2 rod bearing failures are pretty common in 944's.
10-26-2006, 06:47 PM
#10
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If you are looking for a general list of parts to change before installing any used engine.....
Timing belt, balance shaft belt, all related tensioners, front engine seals, possibly cam tower gasket (very easy to change at this point), seal underneath the coolant elbow at the back of the head, rod bearings, oil pan gasket, rear main seal, oil cooler seals, air/oil seperator (AOS) seals, and possibly motor mounts.
That is pretty much a full gasket kit, and including the timing/balance shaft belts and rod bearings will be a couple hundred bucks. The only thing I can think of that I have intentionally left out of the change list is the head gasket. In N/A motors it very rarely fails.
Of course change the oil and oil filter (and therefore oil drain plug crush washer), and a cooling system flush would be good too.
This way you can be certain that you won't have to go in there again, and all of this stuff is very easy to change with the engine out of the car.
Somebody please fill my list in if I have forgotten anything. Of course, these are not things that you _MUST_ change (depending on condition), but rather it is all pro-active maintenance.
Timing belt, balance shaft belt, all related tensioners, front engine seals, possibly cam tower gasket (very easy to change at this point), seal underneath the coolant elbow at the back of the head, rod bearings, oil pan gasket, rear main seal, oil cooler seals, air/oil seperator (AOS) seals, and possibly motor mounts.
That is pretty much a full gasket kit, and including the timing/balance shaft belts and rod bearings will be a couple hundred bucks. The only thing I can think of that I have intentionally left out of the change list is the head gasket. In N/A motors it very rarely fails.
Of course change the oil and oil filter (and therefore oil drain plug crush washer), and a cooling system flush would be good too.
This way you can be certain that you won't have to go in there again, and all of this stuff is very easy to change with the engine out of the car.
Somebody please fill my list in if I have forgotten anything. Of course, these are not things that you _MUST_ change (depending on condition), but rather it is all pro-active maintenance.
10-26-2006, 11:01 PM
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I would service the head gasket and valve seals. Add up the procedures above and you shouldn't have to touch the engine for a very long time besides timing belts and oil.
