ABS Problem Resolved.
#16
5th Gear
Interesting.
I think this weekend I may just have a look at all the sensors, see if there is any noticable difference then give them a full clean up.
It seemed odd that I was getting 3 identical readings and one off so perhaps it is the wrong sensor fitted or something. The car has had this issue since I got it so it could be that.
I think this weekend I may just have a look at all the sensors, see if there is any noticable difference then give them a full clean up.
It seemed odd that I was getting 3 identical readings and one off so perhaps it is the wrong sensor fitted or something. The car has had this issue since I got it so it could be that.
#17
Drifting
Thread Starter
Hum, that's good to know! I still have random moment where the ABS disables itself, that could be it. I've been looking for 4 known good sensors to replace them all at once but can't find any.
Anyone?
Anyone?
#18
5th Gear
Just a thought. My brake pipes, lines the lot are looking a bit crusty too, any chance that could be effecting the ABS system.
I am planning on replacing them but wanted to sort this ABS stuff first.
I am planning on replacing them but wanted to sort this ABS stuff first.
#19
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Actually... you should consider that the pump motor relay could be failed... after all, replace parts in reverse order of cost! Not to mention fuses...
With a shorter protruding pickup, the air gap on the sensor will be larger, which means that the signal may be weaker. This may or may not pass the drive-off tests, but it can also be expected to be more sensitive to faults while driving - plausibility and signal drop-out checks.
Brake hard line corrosion should make no difference to ABS unless you have a bad ground, or up until the point that they burst!
With a shorter protruding pickup, the air gap on the sensor will be larger, which means that the signal may be weaker. This may or may not pass the drive-off tests, but it can also be expected to be more sensitive to faults while driving - plausibility and signal drop-out checks.
Brake hard line corrosion should make no difference to ABS unless you have a bad ground, or up until the point that they burst!
#20
5th Gear
Cheers for the help guys.
As 924R suggested I went in reverse cost order.
Tested the relay using wire wrapped and taped around the connectors and it read negative. Picked up a second hand relay of the 'bay for £25 which seems to have sorted the problem out, I couldn't get the error light to come on even testing with heavy braking and the ABS kicking in.
Good times
As 924R suggested I went in reverse cost order.
Tested the relay using wire wrapped and taped around the connectors and it read negative. Picked up a second hand relay of the 'bay for £25 which seems to have sorted the problem out, I couldn't get the error light to come on even testing with heavy braking and the ABS kicking in.
Good times
#21
Administrator - "Tyson"
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Nice work, I wish new(er) cars were so simple. Even when the factory computer tells you X sensor is bad, half the time it's wrong. Especially with BMW's.
Very frustrating.
Very frustrating.
#22
Very nice description
I have another ABS problem (i think). I got some parts on my exhaust welded and after that my ABS is not working BUT I do not get anny error indication from the ABS lamp?
PROBLEM DESCRIPTION
I turn ignition on - ABS lamp lights up
Start motor - ABS lamp goes out imediatelly
Drive - ABS light still out
Brake hard - wheels lock up - ABS light still out
Could it still be a sensor or do you think they fried the box when welding?
Also my oil sensor died the same time - before it was a bit jumpy (somtimes dropping quick to 0 bar and then back up after 0.2sec) so it could just be coincidence.
I have the left hand drive (European version) so I guess the box is on the other side?
Would the pin nrs be the same?
Thank you
Ola
I have another ABS problem (i think). I got some parts on my exhaust welded and after that my ABS is not working BUT I do not get anny error indication from the ABS lamp?
PROBLEM DESCRIPTION
I turn ignition on - ABS lamp lights up
Start motor - ABS lamp goes out imediatelly
Drive - ABS light still out
Brake hard - wheels lock up - ABS light still out
Could it still be a sensor or do you think they fried the box when welding?
Also my oil sensor died the same time - before it was a bit jumpy (somtimes dropping quick to 0 bar and then back up after 0.2sec) so it could just be coincidence.
I have the left hand drive (European version) so I guess the box is on the other side?
Would the pin nrs be the same?
Thank you
Ola
#23
Drifting
Thread Starter
It's possible they fried it when welding but then again, the board might have died of old age. Try changing the ABS module, they are not too expensive on e-bay. I don't think a sensor would do this, if a sensor is not detected, it turns on the light when you start moving.
If you changed the relay, then in order I would check the ABS module then the pump.
If you changed the relay, then in order I would check the ABS module then the pump.
#24
Sysgen - this old thread helped me tremendously to resolve my ABS light issue which I have been trying to resolve for about 2 months now. it turned out to be a poor contact between the ABS computer and the electrical plug. I was relieved that no speed sensors were bad using your test method.
Just wanted to thank you for this great contribution.
Just wanted to thank you for this great contribution.
#26
I've noticed most of the issues have to do with the light coming on after the car starts rolling.
With my 951S, the lights (both the anitlock and the !) comes on as soon as I turn the key and never turn off. The car was stationary for about a month and I had rebuilt the head. Any suggestions?
Thanks
With my 951S, the lights (both the anitlock and the !) comes on as soon as I turn the key and never turn off. The car was stationary for about a month and I had rebuilt the head. Any suggestions?
Thanks
#28
Checked the fuse (good) and there's pwr at terminal 30 at the relay. I don't have a spare relay, but I took the old one off and jumped terminal 30 and 87. When I jumped them I heard clicking from the right side of the car, I'm assuming this is the area of the abs pump.
Do you know of any way to test the relay?
Do you know of any way to test the relay?
Last edited by armandodiaz; 08-02-2012 at 11:52 AM.
#29
Well, I finally picked up a used relay (supposively good). Plugged it in and still got the same results.... both lights turn on with the ignition on and never turn off.
I'm going to go through the tests, mentioned on the original post. Just so I can rule all that out.
So if everything test OK, could it be the controller itself??? Has anyone had one of those go bad?
I'm going to go through the tests, mentioned on the original post. Just so I can rule all that out.
So if everything test OK, could it be the controller itself??? Has anyone had one of those go bad?
#30
7th Gear
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Västerås, SWEDEN
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I've noticed most of the issues have to do with the light coming on after the car starts rolling.
With my 951S, the lights (both the anitlock and the !) comes on as soon as I turn the key and never turn off. The car was stationary for about a month and I had rebuilt the head. Any suggestions?
Thanks
With my 951S, the lights (both the anitlock and the !) comes on as soon as I turn the key and never turn off. The car was stationary for about a month and I had rebuilt the head. Any suggestions?
Thanks