inactiveuser92616

Tonight I finally pulled my starter motor on my car, as I have been having a problem where sometimes, while cranking, the starter motor will make a funny noise and stop cranking the engine.

I thought this was due to a missing tooth on the gear, but all teeth are in great shape (assume flywheel is fine as well)

The Haynes manual mentions that "If the starter motor spins but the engine is not cranking, then the overrunning clutch in the starter motor is slipping and the starter motor must be removed from the engine and dissasembled."

So is there something inside the motor that I can service or adjust, or is this a generic phrase that goes into every Haynes manual?

Hans

What most p[robably is ment is that it is about time to clean the mechanism.
There is no ajustment in the overrun clutch system, the thing is spring loaded and either working or dead.....

If you take out the starter and remove the dust gathered over 18+ years of service you are most probably back in business.
- disconnect battery ( power to the starter is constant, wiring to the starter is not fused)
- mark which wire goes were before you take them off
- remove starter and put on workbench
- remove solenoid (the black thingie on top of the actual starter motor)
DO NOT REMOVE REAR COVER IN THIS STAGE
- blow out with compressed air, and clean with break cleaner till the sprocket and the levers move easily
- re-grease with lithium based grease, re-grease the top bearing as well

Now open the rear casing and inspect block brushes.
These are pushed in to the collector section on the rotor via clock type springs. If the spring is still pushing the block brush (thus if the brush is still extended above the guide rail at the location of the spring), there is life left in them.
Modify a paper clip, stretch and bent tip in a 90 deg angle to lift the spring and move the brushes. If this goes easy, you are safe. If not: remove block brushes and clean guide rail.
DO NOT TOUCH THE COPPER PARTS ON THE ROTOR
Re-install brushes, note that they should be in the same position as they came from and do not rotate the brush!! Replace brushes if you do not feel safe about them.

The bearing on this side is either a life time lubricated ball bearing or a sintered bronze sleeve.
The bronze sleeve could use some light oil (be careful, do not spill anything to inside the motor), the ball bearing might require replacement.

Re-install rear cover and solenoid and bench test.
Bench testing needs to be done with care: these motors do not stop revving up!!
Put motor in a vice to control the starting torque and hook up to the battery via jump starter cables and apply power to the start terminal on the solenoid in start / stop mode, allowing it to run for very short time only.
Note: If you operate the motor without load for longer than 2 minutes, there is a fair chance that the windings of the rotor will be “centrifuged” out and the bearings will be exploded.

inactiveuser92616

any sources on the parts to rebuild? (brushes, bearings, etc) I am pretty good with these sorts of things, if I can get parts. Bet it will sure beat the $120-300 for a rebuilt starter.

triscadek

O'Reilley's has them for $119, lifetime warranty. DO NOT BE TEMPTED AND BUY ONE!!!!!!!!!!!!

I got 2 bad rebuilt starters from them in 2 days, the 3rd day I got a refund.

inactiveuser92616

the $120 I quoted was a paragon price, everyone trusts them

Hans

Brushes and solenoid:your local Bosch service centre.
bearings: for ball type; the local hardware store (or industrial supplier). the size is engraved in the race (side). For sintered bronze: dont try this yourselve, get a rebuilt starter then.
TakeCare