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I've seen several threads, but wanted to compile a complete list of things to do when removing the intake to replace vacuum lines. I used Clark's Garage reference to remove intake/injectors/fuel rail.
Things I should do after going to the trouble to remove the intake:
1) Send out injectors for service
2) Replace vacuum lines - ordered from LR. What other sizes of hose do I need? Other connectors?
3) Replace air oil separator seals
Suggest you inspect/replace the vac hose between the manifold and the brake booster, the vac hoses to/from the idle control valve, and the water hoses at the firewall between the head, heater control valve, and heater core.
Suggest you simply purchase the factory formed hoses, previously mentioned, from Paragon Parts or Pelican Parts. Personally, would even go to a dealer...they are not very expensive [most are $10-$30].
I took a look at the vacuum hoses, and the only ones showing signs of wear are the rear ISV valve hose (looks like someone took a knife to it) and the air/oil separator hose. Ordered those as suggested from Pelican.
Also replaced most of the hard plastic vacuum lines with an LR kit. However, there is one set that is tough, the one that goes through the firewall. At this time I'm planning leaving as is since the lines seem fine. However, maybe its not that bad, and I just don't know how to get it out.
1) I would just have to drill through the firewall to replace?
2) One of the three branches goes into a rubber connect in the firewall that I can't pull out. How would I get it out?
3)I am also having trouble getting the third bolt (closest to firewall) back in for the air/oil separator....the plastic flange its next to makes it nearly impossible to get a wrench in there. ideas?
4) There is oil pooled in cyl 1, but the others are dry. I thought perhaps a vacuum system problem, but its only one cyl. It could be gasket...but I sure hope its not the head gasket. Again, not sure how to diagnose this...
One that goes through the firewall and the one below it that goes to that rubber grommet.
However, there is one set that is tough, the one that goes through the firewall.
Evaporator set up on early cars is different than set up on late cars...and I have a late car.
1) should not have to drill [see #2 below]
2) replacing hoses would probably be easier if you had access to back side of evaporator
3) extensions, swivels, and a bit of...patience?
4) not sure...how long has the car sat/not been driven?
1-2) Sounds good. Ill look into that.
3) Haha probably more patience. Spent ~45 minutes on it last night...though at night when I was tired. I'll try again this weekend in the light.
4) I have driven it off and on over the past year. I parked it in its current spot in mid-February...so not a terribly long time.
1-2...search here for "coolant hoses", "heater control valve", and/or "evaporator". Have come across a few threads in the past of folks doing hoses/evaporator on early cars. If search is unsuccessful, post a new thread asking advice/reference for replacing HCV hoses to evaporator.
3...patience, grasshopper.
4...hard to really tell what's in there from the photo. Other have more experience...valve guide/stem seal, maybe? Would hold off on doing anything until you get back to driving the car on a more regular basis.
03-28-2017, 03:05 PM
Vacuum Line Replacement/Intake Removal
